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Day 19

Instead of making holes in the TJ skid plate for the tranny mount, I decided to make a crossmember mount, this way I can drop the skid plate and I don't have to unbolt and support the tranny. To keep it high and away from the skidplate, I used 1"x2"x0.120" rectangular tubing, and made large holes on the bottom so the nuts would be inside the tube. I made it to bolt to the frame rails with 1/4" plate and 1/2" bolts.

This is a good time to run gas, brake, and vent lines, and in my case the wires to the VSS and fuel pump. Since I have a 2" body lift I ran the lines on top of the frame reusing cable dressing ties from the old frame. There was a lot of un-bending and re-bending of the hard lines, so it did take quite a bit of time.

Day 20

I got a t-case e-brake kit from Tom Woods. They don't advertise it on their website but they do sell it. Since I have a High Angle Driveline output flange I got the disc without any bolt holes and I just got simple caliper mounting brackets. The reason I chose this one over the one from High Angle Driveline is the $100 difference in price.

The first thing to do is make the disc fit the flange. The inside hole was quite the close fit, I did have to grind around the one side due to the welding on the flange. I then did a lot of measuring for the 4 mounting holes and drilled them out.

After mounting the disc to the flange I noticed that the pad backing plates interfere with the flange for one and the bolt heads for the other. On the other hand the pads themselves were just the right arc. I cut and ground away some of the plates to match the round of the pads.

One flaw of this kit, is the caliper will hold the pads tight against the disc, so I had to find washers to spread them further apart. But before putting the washers in this flaw was handy to keep the caliper in place on the disc for fitting.

Here's the caliper mounting bracket I ended up doing (right part only). On the D300 I selected the bearing retaining cap bolts. One caution here, the bolt holes go right through the housing, so if they are pulled right out oil will drain. I made slots in the bracket so I don't have to pull the bolts right out.

For the cable I made the small bracket shown in the 2nd pic above on the left. The cable is from an aftermarket kit I got with my Tera60 axle and it was easily modified to fit onto the caliper arm. On the bottom side I added springs to help return the caliper to open.

I chose to keep this end non-adjustable since it won't be easy to access once the body is on. The adjustment will be made between 2 cable similar to stock. I added another return spring here to help pull the pedal all the way back.

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