TJ front bumper, snapped bolts!!

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woodendude

Guest
Just throwing this out there, I'll actually check sometime soon when I have to do it...Recently while taking the front bumper off, I snapped off three of the mounting bolts, it is presently on there with the remaining couple, which is okay as long as I don't plan on using the winch.. I've never had any luck with extractors in the past and don't see these coming out easily if at all. So what I'm thinking is do the upper and lower bolt holes line up and if so I may just drill everything out...
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2Greys

Insert title here
Club Member
X2 what Mud Lite said. Maybe time to make a new cross member.

(waiting for Mitko to chime in about Jeeps)
 

Farm Boy

Bought the Farm
Try welding a nut to the broken stud then back it out while still hot. Always works as long as you can weld it without welding the broken bolt to what it's suck in.
 
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woodendude

Guest
Never considered the frame pulling in/collapsing, what if I put a plate against it and ran the bolts through it also it would distribute the pressure somewhat and maybe prevent this collapse..
 
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woodendude

Guest
Try welding a nut to the broken stud then back it out while still hot. Always works as long as you can weld it without welding the broken bolt to what it's suck in.
Only one them snapped above the surface...but now that you mention welding maybe I'll just have someone weld the bumper to the frame....
 

Kunker

Administrator
Club Member
Never considered the frame pulling in/collapsing, what if I put a plate against it and ran the bolts through it also it would distribute the pressure somewhat and maybe prevent this collapse..

You'd do better to sleeve the hole with some tube, then run the bolt through that.
 

Mlorint

Well-known member
Even if the bolt broke below the surface, build it up with weld. I have done it many time works well.
 

chunkytrunks

That's MR.EX Pres to you!
Club Member
As much as it sucks, just buy a really good set of bits and start drilling. Then drill a little larger and retap them for a bigger bolt. Besides, you'll need a good set of bits since you do own a jeep.
 
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woodendude

Guest
As much as it sucks, just buy a really good set of bits and start drilling. Then drill a little larger and retap them for a bigger bolt. Besides, you'll need a good set of bits since you do own a jeep.

I think this is what I'm going to try, I won;t get the chance until next week end..I'll keep you all posted of my success or failure because I might be looking for some one to weld it on for me.
 

chunkytrunks

That's MR.EX Pres to you!
Club Member
Make sure you buy a really good set of bits. Those ones you get at CT you will not get anywhere.
 

Mini-T

Sasquatch
Get a carbide masonry bit. It will go through hardened steel. In the machining industry they use carbide all the time. I used one to drill out a broken and seized roll pin in the door hinge of my Cherokee.
 
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woodendude

Guest
Get a carbide masonry bit. It will go through hardened steel. In the machining industry they use carbide all the time. I used one to drill out a broken and seized roll pin in the door hinge of my Cherokee.

Thanks for the advice....I almost bought a CT set this morning while I was there!! Where do I buy a carbide masonry bit?
 

Cochise

Well-known member
Another kind of bit you can use are cobalt drill bits. They're expensive, but work very, very well.
 

chunkytrunks

That's MR.EX Pres to you!
Club Member
I agree with Cochise. Cabalt bits are awsome! However I don't have any experience with using a Carbide masonry bit with steel, And since this is coming from Andrew i'm sure it'll probably work great aswell.
 

Mini-T

Sasquatch
I got my masonry bit at CT.

We have cobalt bits at work. Let me know what size you need and I can get you a price.
 

Farm Boy

Bought the Farm
:confused:
Get a carbide masonry bit. It will go through hardened steel. In the machining industry they use carbide all the time. I used one to drill out a broken and seized roll pin in the door hinge of my Cherokee.

How the hell did you get this to work?

Masonry bits are designed to "cut" by pulverizing due to the hammer action of the drill and as such, do not have a sharp cutting edge (nor are they designed to). Machining bits are way different than masonry ones.

If a masonry bit will cut hardened steel, why then when drilling concrete and I hit rebar (very soft compared to a bolt) does it refuse to go thru and I have to move over and make a new hole?

:confused:
 

Mini-T

Sasquatch
:confused:

How the hell did you get this to work?

Masonry bits are designed to "cut" by pulverizing due to the hammer action of the drill and as such, do not have a sharp cutting edge (nor are they designed to). Machining bits are way different than masonry ones.

If a masonry bit will cut hardened steel, why then when drilling concrete and I hit rebar (very soft compared to a bolt) does it refuse to go thru and I have to move over and make a new hole?

:confused:

I get what your saying but it worked when I had broken other bits in the roll pin. It went right through no problems. It didn't make sense to me either but I was told to try it and it worked. It may only work when there is a pilot hole.
 

Mlorint

Well-known member
The only thing you might want to try if you hit rebar is turn off the hammer and try just drilling it. We use the masonry ones to drill threw extractors and taps.
 
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