Dang it Jim, I'm a Doctor, not a mechanic!!!!!!!!
lol ok D44 swap it is
lol ok D44 swap it is
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Build Project Liberty - Trail/Overland Jeep Build
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I tried L --> R tire swap and the problem persisted. CVs look/sound good, little play, LBJs and UBJs are all good. Bushings on the LCAs are so-so but are all intact. The overall rust is getting nasty....
HOWEVER
the upper rubber spring mount on the left side is pretty garbled. It's close to being in about 3 different pieces, so the spring probably gets creative under load. The part is now on order...
HOWEVER
the upper rubber spring mount on the left side is pretty garbled. It's close to being in about 3 different pieces, so the spring probably gets creative under load. The part is now on order...
'Wasted time' lately...should be fixing the suspension, but instead I installed a new sub in the Jeep, plus we've started our kitchen reno.
The sub is a new but basic Rockford Fosgate 10" (P1S2 - only an svc) in a sealed box built to the large end of spec for tight, deep bass. So far so good. Running on a SOOPER old skool RF amp 50x2 rms bridged mono. I may do a 2nd layer face on it so it sits flush, but haven't gotten around to it yet. It's too warm to spray bomb it anyhow so I'll wait and decide later. I'll probably leave it the way it is 'for lightness' lol
The sub is a new but basic Rockford Fosgate 10" (P1S2 - only an svc) in a sealed box built to the large end of spec for tight, deep bass. So far so good. Running on a SOOPER old skool RF amp 50x2 rms bridged mono. I may do a 2nd layer face on it so it sits flush, but haven't gotten around to it yet. It's too warm to spray bomb it anyhow so I'll wait and decide later. I'll probably leave it the way it is 'for lightness' lol
Replaced the coolant overflow with all new lines from Amazon - it was $36 and came with a new cap. Dang good deal. No more burning coolant smell!
Also rebuilt the cv end of the front driveshaft with a Dorman part - a bit better quality than the ones I had been buying. Let's see how long it lasts this time. I hate lying in the slush and sand at this time of year...reminds me that I should get a creeper. And damn while that shaft was out...it really highlighted how crappy the liberty is in only 2wd lol
Also rebuilt the cv end of the front driveshaft with a Dorman part - a bit better quality than the ones I had been buying. Let's see how long it lasts this time. I hate lying in the slush and sand at this time of year...reminds me that I should get a creeper. And damn while that shaft was out...it really highlighted how crappy the liberty is in only 2wd lol
I had to replace mine about a year before we got rid of it (still wish we hadn't). I bought the cheapest from Rock Auto. It was ok but I always had an eye on it
Yeah I had been buying the cheapest on driveshaftparts.com but they typically lock up about annually. PITA!!
You can always buy another.
Yeah I had been buying the cheapest on driveshaftparts.com but they typically lock up about annually. PITA!!
You can always buy another.
No where to put it otherwise I would have kept it as a winter beater.
Last week I removed the 22" bar in the back, and moved it to the front after I reworked the front of the rack. I like it a LOT better than the 'bug eyes' (4" el cheapo pods) that were there before. The sides were old bed rails with the headboard attachment sitting up front to attach them to. I hacked those off.
I'll probably put them out back for reverse lights.
Afterwards, I found a few weird spots that I couldn't get out of my windshield....oh that's right, molten metal droplets. GALDANGIT shoulda removed the rack to weld. Experience is the best teacher. lol
Pix to come, my network is flaky today.
I'll probably put them out back for reverse lights.
Afterwards, I found a few weird spots that I couldn't get out of my windshield....oh that's right, molten metal droplets. GALDANGIT shoulda removed the rack to weld. Experience is the best teacher.
lolPix to come, my network is flaky today.
[MENTION=526]Logan[/MENTION] thanks! Just need to fix these LBJs and my PS high pressure line and THEN I can come out to play............
Great setup! I really dig that vintage pop out tent trailer. I spy your solar panel and I’m curious the size of it and the particulars of your setup and what you can power with it.
I’ve ordered a 100w panel kit for a camper van project, I haven’t yet purchased batteries, I’m looking for some experienced trustworthy knowledge, can you help me out?
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I’ve ordered a 100w panel kit for a camper van project, I haven’t yet purchased batteries, I’m looking for some experienced trustworthy knowledge, can you help me out?
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
[MENTION=641]junkpile[/MENTION] thanks man. The tent does the trick, although with some struggling due to the weight of canvas. But hey, works really well for $500. PO even recently rewired it, it might need a new ply floor, but I'm probably rebuilding into a hardside before that is really needed.
The panel is a 100W Renogy, and I've seen upwards of about 5.5 A charge voltage in full sunlight, which tops off our AGM in about 15-20 minutes, like crazy fast. You just have to ensure there is ABSOLUTELY NO SHADE on the panel as it shuts down some of the cells in the series that are connected to the cell in the shade...e.g. your hand shading it can drop the amperage by 40% or something.
We are using a 'MooHoo' charge controller - don't cheap out like we did - get something reliable like a Morningstar and if you can afford it, get one that definitely does the type of battery you need (there are different charge/hold cycle parameters depending on the batt type). It was only $30 but it's only so-so quality. But hey it works ok so far. When we build the cabin we will get a better one, likely 30-40 A depending on how much we plan to use.
We don't do a lot of high drain from it, so we are using a Stanley 500W inverter which has an active fan, 2 three prongs and 2 usbs (2.0A from the usbs). On a weekend, we charge our phones a few times (because we have very patchy reception there...even then it's 3G, 4G or Edge only), charge a small bluetooth speaker, building various wooden things (camp furniture, wood shed, etc) using a 3.5A 3/8" corded B&D drill (old stainless one with keyed chuck, so a power hog), a 3.5A jig saw, 7.25" circular saw (I forget the motor size), plus 'house lights' for the campsite, which is a 20W LED flood, 3-4 showers by powering small fountain pump, lights inside the trailer (LED strip light from a fishtank setup converted to 12V plug by removing the transformer), etc.
Even doing all this stuff, I've only seen it drop from 12.8V storage voltage down to maybe 12.5? I haven't drained it further yet, but it recovers quickly with this panel and charge controller. I ran all 10 gauge wire with MC4 connectors since I have a 50+ ft run of cord to put it in the sun.
It's a Motomaster Nautilus with 87Ah I think. I charged it last fall before shelving it in the garage and it was 12.8V...I put the multimeter on it in the spring and it was STILL at 12.78V. Crazy.
Lmk if you have other questions!!
The panel is a 100W Renogy, and I've seen upwards of about 5.5 A charge voltage in full sunlight, which tops off our AGM in about 15-20 minutes, like crazy fast. You just have to ensure there is ABSOLUTELY NO SHADE on the panel as it shuts down some of the cells in the series that are connected to the cell in the shade...e.g. your hand shading it can drop the amperage by 40% or something.
We are using a 'MooHoo' charge controller - don't cheap out like we did - get something reliable like a Morningstar and if you can afford it, get one that definitely does the type of battery you need (there are different charge/hold cycle parameters depending on the batt type). It was only $30 but it's only so-so quality. But hey it works ok so far. When we build the cabin we will get a better one, likely 30-40 A depending on how much we plan to use.
We don't do a lot of high drain from it, so we are using a Stanley 500W inverter which has an active fan, 2 three prongs and 2 usbs (2.0A from the usbs). On a weekend, we charge our phones a few times (because we have very patchy reception there...even then it's 3G, 4G or Edge only), charge a small bluetooth speaker, building various wooden things (camp furniture, wood shed, etc) using a 3.5A 3/8" corded B&D drill (old stainless one with keyed chuck, so a power hog), a 3.5A jig saw, 7.25" circular saw (I forget the motor size), plus 'house lights' for the campsite, which is a 20W LED flood, 3-4 showers by powering small fountain pump, lights inside the trailer (LED strip light from a fishtank setup converted to 12V plug by removing the transformer), etc.
Even doing all this stuff, I've only seen it drop from 12.8V storage voltage down to maybe 12.5? I haven't drained it further yet, but it recovers quickly with this panel and charge controller. I ran all 10 gauge wire with MC4 connectors since I have a 50+ ft run of cord to put it in the sun.
It's a Motomaster Nautilus with 87Ah I think. I charged it last fall before shelving it in the garage and it was 12.8V...I put the multimeter on it in the spring and it was STILL at 12.78V. Crazy.
Lmk if you have other questions!!
Great info! Thank you! I bought the Renogy 100w monocrystaline panel kit that came with their 30amp charge controller, should do the trick. I went with the Motomaster 1000w pure sine wave inverter. I haven’t decided on the battery(ies) yet but I’m impressed with your review of the 87ah Nautilus. I may just go that route too. I’d love to get my hands on one of those 205ah rail power batteries they use in the O-Trains and such.
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Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Sweet, if I coulda went with the Renogy, I would've but I don't think it was out at the time (or I didn't see it). I've heard that the Motomaster inverters use a fair bit of passive draw. Just watch how much voltage leak you get while it is idle. Otherwise, I think they are supposed to be pretty good. That's a lot of powah!
Yeah so far it's been great, but pricey at around $240 regular price. But hey watch for those CTC sales. I hadn't heard of the OTrain batteries actually - those are massive!! More than I need I think.
Yeah so far it's been great, but pricey at around $240 regular price. But hey watch for those CTC sales. I hadn't heard of the OTrain batteries actually - those are massive!! More than I need I think.
Long story short, the front end of my jeep was fubar'ed!
I did the driver's LBJ last weekend and it was super tough to remove even though it probably wasn't original. I left it on the jeep and tried the c-clamp press - NO WAY was it even budging. Tried the crappy impact, then got serious and used the 3ft breaker bar. Still nothing. So I removed the knuckle and BFH'ed it about 15 times. On the install it was tough too...took about 15 minutes of very careful hammer blows with an appropriate adapter on top. There was about 0.5mm of play in the joint I took out (pics of this one below).
So I decided to do the passenger LBJ a couple days ago...and the nut was stuck - SAWZALL. Then the UBJ boot was torn too (new last year) DAMMIT. Had to just reinstall til I get the new one. Then I took the knuckle off and set it down...sounds weird? Like Rollerskate weird. DOUBLE DAMMIT, but at least I had a hub handy.
Buttoned her back up and she rides like 'a dream'. Yeah yeah in the eye of the beholder blah blah blah, but hey it's dreamy to me!! Took her out to Lac la Peche for some canoeing and chilling yesterday with Erica. Total beauty day, bud!
I did the driver's LBJ last weekend and it was super tough to remove even though it probably wasn't original. I left it on the jeep and tried the c-clamp press - NO WAY was it even budging. Tried the crappy impact, then got serious and used the 3ft breaker bar. Still nothing. So I removed the knuckle and BFH'ed it about 15 times. On the install it was tough too...took about 15 minutes of very careful hammer blows with an appropriate adapter on top. There was about 0.5mm of play in the joint I took out (pics of this one below).
So I decided to do the passenger LBJ a couple days ago...and the nut was stuck - SAWZALL. Then the UBJ boot was torn too (new last year) DAMMIT. Had to just reinstall til I get the new one. Then I took the knuckle off and set it down...sounds weird? Like Rollerskate weird. DOUBLE DAMMIT, but at least I had a hub handy.
Buttoned her back up and she rides like 'a dream'. Yeah yeah in the eye of the beholder blah blah blah, but hey it's dreamy to me!! Took her out to Lac la Peche for some canoeing and chilling yesterday with Erica. Total beauty day, bud!
So, as you have seen...I've been looking for a new DD...needs 4x4, but can tow the liberty on a trailer.
What I'm finding is that there is basically nothing under about 10k for a decent DD. I'm also pretty stuck on a decision. I can't see myself in a truck (well, mostly Erica can't) and what else could pull the jeep on a trailer? Leaning now towards JGC diesel (getting old), ML350 ($$$ parts, but same engine), or a 1/2 ton which I'm not sure is right for us...maybe would consider a chev with 5.3 but has to have creature comforts. I don't think I need a 3/4 ton, but I'd use it if I found one at a 'good price' with a 6.0 or diesel.
I don't want to take the liberty off the road, but the chassis is pretty tired, and I'm starting to feel the lack of overall rigidity. So I'm likely going to retire it from the road in the next 6-12 months and do some work to it. Aside from the rust underneath, it's running really well.
Any other suggestions???? I'm not totally stuck on keeping the liberty.
What I'm finding is that there is basically nothing under about 10k for a decent DD. I'm also pretty stuck on a decision. I can't see myself in a truck (well, mostly Erica can't) and what else could pull the jeep on a trailer? Leaning now towards JGC diesel (getting old), ML350 ($$$ parts, but same engine), or a 1/2 ton which I'm not sure is right for us...maybe would consider a chev with 5.3 but has to have creature comforts. I don't think I need a 3/4 ton, but I'd use it if I found one at a 'good price' with a 6.0 or diesel.
I don't want to take the liberty off the road, but the chassis is pretty tired, and I'm starting to feel the lack of overall rigidity. So I'm likely going to retire it from the road in the next 6-12 months and do some work to it. Aside from the rust underneath, it's running really well.
Any other suggestions???? I'm not totally stuck on keeping the liberty.
What do you want to do? What are your driving habits (distance, frequency), what are you comfortable with for a fuel bill, do you plan on hauling anything (sounds like the Libby may not long for the world), do you need to haul up building supplies to the land you have in Lavant, etc?
I DD a 3/4 ton diesel Dodge. Not *that* bad on fuel for what it is, I can haul anything I want to, etc. Downside is that it rides like a 3/4 ton truck, which gets a bit old on the commute.
Tahoe/Yukon/Explorer or maybe even a Trailblazer (7pass version with the 5.3) might fit the bill. I own a Dodge but don't know that I'd recommend one. Not as familiar with the Toyota side (Sequoia/4Runner?).
I DD a 3/4 ton diesel Dodge. Not *that* bad on fuel for what it is, I can haul anything I want to, etc. Downside is that it rides like a 3/4 ton truck, which gets a bit old on the commute.
Tahoe/Yukon/Explorer or maybe even a Trailblazer (7pass version with the 5.3) might fit the bill. I own a Dodge but don't know that I'd recommend one. Not as familiar with the Toyota side (Sequoia/4Runner?).
Fair questions. I shoulda put a few needs up while asking you folks for advice, my bad.
I co-parent my two daughters 1 week on one week off, so on the weeks my kids are here, I drive them to school about 20 kms one way, but only in the morning. I do this all year long, but my oldest is moving out (!!) in September for school. So only one kid, and only for the next year or so most likely. My oldest doesn't tend to want to travel with us anymore, so she doesn't come on many trips with us (definitely no off roading for her).
I drive to work only in the winter so late Oct - mid May, and really rainy days otherwise (I'm an office dweeb). But my office is super close, like embarrassingly close...about 1.2 kms lol. So not much distance for driving to work.
Fuel cost isn't a major deal breaker, I have driven gas guzzlers for a while, so as long as they are 'good' on gas for what they are capable of, I'm ok with that. So, the abyssmal mileage I get in the libby on stock gears and 32s is on the borderline. I get about 350kms on 60 L in the city, 550 on the hwy...so in city is not great at all, hwy I'm ok with. But less fuel is better. I need to haul though for sure. Yes, I want to be able to haul (in a bed or trailer) building materials and furniture and rocks etc back and forth to our property (in Griffith area btw but close enough
).I love me a Toy/Lex, but I don't want to pay the Toyota tax. I had been looking at GXs but geez $17k for 170k kms, no thanks. And most 4Rs are high kms, or rust AF, or priced way high. I think a sequoia may be too big. Maybe a taco? Still, toyota tax. I'm ok doing basically any work on the vehicle, but I just don't want to have a pile of things to do all the time, so I'm looking at stuff no more than 150k kms.
Explorer, really? I always hear Exploder...maybe that's applies to the older ones.
I'd prefer diesel for power and efficiency, but that said, I do not have experience working on one (yet). Somewhat luxurious and 'nice looking' is necessary (heated seats, leather or very nice cloth), sunroof is a plus, but not mandatory. I'm not allowed to buy another beater.
I may try to sell the lib but it could only be a toy unless someone can do the work and safety it. I will likely keep it as my own toy. I'll have to think about whether to get a platform trailer, or a dolly. The latter may be more achievable (permissible...this is).
I'm not opposed at all to a 3/4 ton, I just don't think it's needed for what I want to do.
TIA
Thinking more on the weekend about this ^
Maybe it makes more sense to keep the lib on the road for now, put some time into it to get it to be more solid, buy a small SUV, like Forester, or CRV that can pull a small trailer, but still have decent approach and departure to get onto our property which has a semi deep ditch at the entrance.
Thinking of buying something in the late fall.
Maybe it makes more sense to keep the lib on the road for now, put some time into it to get it to be more solid, buy a small SUV, like Forester, or CRV that can pull a small trailer, but still have decent approach and departure to get onto our property which has a semi deep ditch at the entrance.
Thinking of buying something in the late fall.