School me on TJs

Kunker

Kunker

Administrator
Club Member
After some personal searching, it looks like I'll be getting back into the hobby/sport, and I'm looking at Jeeps. What's the good/bad about them?

Things I do know:

- D35's suck
- it's a Jeep, so frame's rust out
- lots of parts for lots of $$$
- 4cyl vs 6cyl - same gas mileage, get the bigger engine

Some questions:

What gear ratios go with which models? Why the heck does it seem like someone is looking for a trans for one every month? Are they that bad? How is the auto trans? Any...
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Kunker

Kunker

Administrator
Club Member
Thanks John! Any problem areas in the frame I should know about? I'm going to take a look tonight.
 
bradleyfitz

bradleyfitz

Well-known member
Club Member
There should be no issues on an '00+ frame unless it was in an accident. That being said, check the weak points, like the control arm and trackbar mounts for noticeable fatigue.
 
2

2Greys

Insert title here
Club Member
Mud Lite pretty much got the basics of it. However if you do end up with a Dana 35 don't lock the back. If you can get an LJ (aka TJ Unlimited) that is a good choice, if you can get a Rubicon LJ even better. I believe the last year of the LJs have Dana 44 by default. Either way it is easy to check.
Front fenders are also a notorious rust point as well as the drain holes and driver side inside wall of the tub by the clutch.
Oh and rip out the carpet the moment you get it.
 
R

Root Moose

Guest
Buy a Rubi. It's cheaper than building the Jeep with aftermarket parts and there is no PITA factor.

If it were me I'd be looking for a LWB. I'm not certain but think they started in `03 or `04.
 
2

2Greys

Insert title here
Club Member
The Unlimited came out in 04 and had a rear Dana 44 by default. The Rubicon Unlimited came out in 05. Pretty much they would be the ideal TJ; a bit longer wheelbase but not as much as the JK, still narrow and guaranteed D44.

Root Moose said:
Buy a Rubi. It's cheaper than building the Jeep with aftermarket parts and there is no PITA factor.

If it were me I'd be looking for a LWB. I'm not certain but think they started in `03 or `04.
Click to expand...
 
Kunker

Kunker

Administrator
Club Member
2Greys said:
Mud Lite pretty much got the basics of it. However if you do end up with a Dana 35 don't lock the back. If you can get an LJ (aka TJ Unlimited) that is a good choice, if you can get a Rubicon LJ even better. I believe the last year of the LJs have Dana 44 by default. Either way it is easy to check.
Front fenders are also a notorious rust point as well as the drain holes and driver side inside wall of the tub by the clutch.
Oh and rip out the carpet the moment you get it.
Click to expand...

Carpet is out, minimal rust, some rash on the body and rims, but typical for it's age (03). All in all, I was impressed by the shape it was in. But I'd be trading my TDI Jetta for this one, so it's a tough call with a 80km round trip daily commute.

Anyone know anything about the sway bar disconnects? I noticed it was disconnected (and had a lot of body roll, but I don't know TJ's), and I couldn't see how it would re-connect....there was just a ball (for lack of a better term) on the sway bar side, and a cup with a rubber boot around it on the axle side. Anyone have any input?
 
Farm Boy

Farm Boy

Bought the Farm
Kunker said:
Anyone know anything about the sway bar disconnects? I noticed it was disconnected (and had a lot of body roll, but I don't know TJ's), and I couldn't see how it would re-connect....there was just a ball (for lack of a better term) on the sway bar side, and a cup with a rubber boot around it on the axle side. Anyone have any input?
Click to expand...

Put on a Currie Anti-rock and forget about it. :clue:
 
R

Root Moose

Guest
I'd rather do a swayloc... If you are going to spend the big money and still want road manners.

All Currie setup does is act like a really weak anti-roll bar.

Swayloc is an anti-roll (sway) bar with two settings. Soft for off-road, firm for on-road. Arguably better than the total disconnect in the JK Rubis. I'm probably going to go this route when I get around to it.
 
Z

zuk4life

Guest
keep the tdi, save the 5 years of grief, realizing that you should of bought a suzuki. skip all of these steps, That many ppl have done before and BUY A SUZUKI!! mY 2 cents. Everyday you will regret selling your jetta. I did, dont tell anybody but theres a jetta in my laneway along with two suzuki's. Good luck with your decision. see if theyll trade you for a week and make your decision on that. when you see the gas station attendant 3 times that week your decision will be easy. Im pretty biased though.
 
2

2Greys

Insert title here
Club Member
Yeah you would get a lot of roll with them disconnected.
As mentioned above there are options as well as Swaybar disconnects (I have the JKS one). Here is a picture of how it looks when connected.
http://jeephorizons.com/tech/ome/frntcomp1.jpg

If you will be getting rid of your Jetta, say goodbye to decent gas mileage :).


Kunker said:
Carpet is out, minimal rust, some rash on the body and rims, but typical for it's age (03). All in all, I was impressed by the shape it was in. But I'd be trading my TDI Jetta for this one, so it's a tough call with a 80km round trip daily commute.

Anyone know anything about the sway bar disconnects? I noticed it was disconnected (and had a lot of body roll, but I don't know TJ's), and I couldn't see how it would re-connect....there was just a ball (for lack of a better term) on the sway bar side, and a cup with a rubber boot around it on the axle side. Anyone have any input?
Click to expand...
 
blueguy

blueguy

Jackstand Racer
Kunker said:
....there was just a ball (for lack of a better term) on the sway bar side, and a cup with a rubber boot around it on the axle side. Anyone have any input?
Click to expand...

Sounds like a broken stock swaybar link to me.

FWIW, I ran Currie AR for a bunch of years before selling it off when I started stripping my DD TJ down, and it was a fine piece of kit. To change up the settings, it was just a matter of 5 minutes with a wrench to change the settings. During the summer wheeling season, I'd leave it at the softest setting - the body roll was only slightly worse than stock, but less than without any sway bar. During the winter and long road trips (I used to make the trek from NB to Ottawa a couple times a year) I'd put it on the stiffest setting, and it was pretty much the same or stiffer than the stocker.
 
Kunker

Kunker

Administrator
Club Member
zuk4life said:
keep the tdi, save the 5 years of grief, realizing that you should of bought a suzuki. skip all of these steps, That many ppl have done before and BUY A SUZUKI!! mY 2 cents. Everyday you will regret selling your jetta. I did, dont tell anybody but theres a jetta in my laneway along with two suzuki's. Good luck with your decision. see if theyll trade you for a week and make your decision on that. when you see the gas station attendant 3 times that week your decision will be easy. Im pretty biased though.
Click to expand...

Been there, done that. And as much as I liked the Zuk, I don't think I'll be going that route again. Besides, as Jon would say, I might as well start with a Toy anyway :flipoff:
 
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