link the rear of a TJ with an 8.8 ~~ Looking for advice

O

O.D.

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4 - link the rear of a TJ with an 8.8 ~~ Looking for advice
OK, i have found myself the setup i am going to build up over the winter for my OD TJ.

I have found a '97 8.8 for a great price that i want to build up with 4.88's and an ARB. However, rather than buying all new brackets to set it up back to stock, i am thinking i am going to go with a 4-link system and perhaps coilovers. As i do not have the fab skills to build my own bracketry, i will be probably...
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2

2Greys

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I think he is right. Unless they are practically giving it away, see if you can get a Dana 44 instead. Save you a huge amount of work plus the fab skills. Unless that is what you are looking for as an exercise.
 
O

O.D.

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Can you elaborate on this?

2Greys said:
Unless they are practically giving it away, see if you can get a Dana 44 instead. Save you a huge amount of work plus the fab skills. Unless that is what you are looking for as an exercise.
Click to expand...


Why do you feel a D44 is more work than an 8.8?
  • Both will need bracketry
  • Both have much aftermarket products
  • the D44 (Depending on which model ~~) would be wider than what i currently run, which i want to avoid for road reasons. the 8.8 is almost the same width
  • The 8.8 already has discs. Most D44's do not unless you find a newer one which = more$$.
  • The 8.8 has the same bolt pattern. Do all D44's?
  • The only DISadvantage i can see to the 8.8 is the flange output/adaptor i'd need to hook up to my CV driveshaft
Regardless of the route i take, there will be welding involved. I think there's too much "Hype" with the D44. Based on all i have read the 8.8 is just as if not more qualified as great upgrade.

PLUS mud lite is referencing more the suspension end of things, not the axles.... I see his point moreso, however Clayton's ==== pricey :)
 
R

Root Moose

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I'm guessing he was suggesting getting a bolt-in TJ Dana 44. Not a bad idea in spite of the light duty tubing... a truss can fix that. It's a function of how big you want to go with your build I guess. Personally I'd be fence sitting on this point.
 
Baja

Baja

Well-known member
There are few other things to be considered too.
The 8.8 is a c-clip axle, sucks if you break one on the trail and it is 2 inches narrower then a stock TJ axle. An XJ D44 is the right width and non c-clip although you would have to fab up disk brakes.
 
Kunker

Kunker

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C-clip eliminators are available for the 8.8, and they are rated higher than a D44 for strength from what I've read. Hell, they're pretty close to a D60 from most accounts.

If you could find a TJ D44 the same money, drop it in and go, but I'm guessing the 8.8 is going to be a fair bit cheaper from what I've seen.

As for the suspension, go with a LA kit front and rear if you're driving on the street. Trail only, I'd go for a home brewed 4 link, but there's a lot get wrong, and it's not worth the risk. Clayton's might be pricey, but it also has a rep as being able to take a ton of abuse, and has a no questions asked warranty.

Personally, I'd leave it as is for the winter and drive it next season the way it sits. Then you can decide what needs to be tweaked.

BTW, ever get the signal thing figured out?
 
Richard

Richard

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I recommend a long arm kit too and to go with a company with a good reputation since you don't want to end up with something that doesn't work well on the road. Also I don't know how well it would handle if you changed the rear suspension but and didn't match the front, if you're set on this do some research on Pirates.

I do recommend Clayton, they might be overbuilt for your use and you might find them expensive, but you deal directly with the shop and they'll fab up brackets to fit your 8.8 or anything else you need. They built me a custom track bar since I was starting from a YJ with D60s. Here's my write-up, ignore all the fiddling with the front suspension and gas tank since again, I started with a YJ:
http://ovo.ca/delormer/jeepmods/tyj/tyj.htm
 
O

O.D.

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Baja said:
There are few other things to be considered too.
The 8.8 is a c-clip axle, sucks if you break one on the trail and it is 2 inches narrower then a stock TJ axle. An XJ D44 is the right width and non c-clip although you would have to fab up disk brakes.
Click to expand...

I read about the C-clip but with re-gears and a 2.5, based on what i read, i would have to be REALLY hard on the heap to break them. Re: width.. I thought the 8.8's are 60.5" VS 61" for the stock D35?


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Kunker said:
C-clip eliminators are available for the 8.8, and they are rated higher than a D44 for strength from what I've read. Hell, they're pretty close to a D60 from most accounts.

If you could find a TJ D44 the same money, drop it in and go, but I'm guessing the 8.8 is going to be a fair bit cheaper from what I've seen.

As for the suspension, go with a LA kit front and rear if you're driving on the street. Trail only, I'd go for a home brewed 4 link, but there's a lot get wrong, and it's not worth the risk. Clayton's might be pricey, but it also has a rep as being able to take a ton of abuse, and has a no questions asked warranty.

Personally, I'd leave it as is for the winter and drive it next season the way it sits. Then you can decide what needs to be tweaked.

BTW, ever get the signal thing figured out?
Click to expand...

I read that too with the C-Clip eliminator. Pricey but i doubt that i will be snapping axles that easily. Could be wrong though. Time will tell. I'd love a drop in D44 no doubt, however with funding in mind, am thinking the 8.8 is the more appropriate route to take. RE: Clayton... Will research more. It is nice, however pricey. If i leave it as is, i then have to fork over coin for a bunch of brackets to fit in the 8.8 to my TJ. This is why i am looking for a LA set up. Why spend money on these brackets to revert to stock when i can try and get into LA's for the rear for a bit more.....

RE: signal... Oh fawk.... Long story short.
Local shop advises me that my signal is fubared and you'll need a new on. 3+ weeks later part is still on back order with no ETA. I start to get frustrated and do some tests. Pull the signal and Lo and behold, problem is still there. So.. WTF? I read more, research more and then follow the lead to the switch on the brake pedal (Original problem was that my brake lights were on ALL the time...). I notice that the switch is not being contacted when the pedals out (I.E. brakes NOT on.). That was it. So, i added about 3/4" inch of PL adhesive to the end of the switch contact point, let it dry and voila... Problem was gone. I did end up breaking my headlampt switch in frustration one night ($40 replacement from NAPA) but it is alas now all addressed :). Safety / E-test to come very soon.... :)


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Root Moose said:
I'm guessing he was suggesting getting a bolt-in TJ Dana 44. Not a bad idea in spite of the light duty tubing... a truss can fix that. It's a function of how big you want to go with your build I guess. Personally I'd be fence sitting on this point.
Click to expand...

The whole reason for the upgrade is to remove the D35. I have not seen a SINGLE Positive to this axle so i want to address it first and foremost. I also HAVE to re-gear so.... If i have to do this, i figured i would address a few other issues as well. I do not want to go much larger than 35's for various reasons. Perhaps up the engine but that's not in the plans for some time.



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Baja

Baja

Well-known member
FSLBRNR said:
I read about the C-clip but with re-gears and a 2.5, based on what i read, i would have to be REALLY hard on the heap to break them. Re: width.. I thought the 8.8's are 60.5" VS 61" for the stock D35?
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Click to expand...

Ya if you stay at 35's and under you wont break a 8.8 or a D44.
As for the width I believe TJ are 61 in the front, 60.5 in the rear. And I am pretty sure the 8.8 is 58inchs, you hear of lots of guys running spacer to make up the differences.
 
tlowe

tlowe

Well-known member
You have many options for a rear axle that fits with wanting to keep your track width close to stock, but all have pros and cons...........8.8 is good because you get discs, bolt pattern and strength but is narrower and has c-clip which will add to the cost of a rebuild. XJ D44 is the right width but is rare and you still need brackets. And the TJ D44 is probably pretty pricey still. Another option is to look at one of the manufactures that sell complete axles, here is a link to an article as an example http://www.jpmagazine.com/howto/154_0701_jeep_wrangler_axle_upgrades/index.html. Figure once you buy a used one, change the gears, locker, bearings, brakes, brackets, upgrades (c-clip eliminator and such) you are probably looking at $2000-$3000 depending on how much you can do yourself and you still have an axle that is 7-25 years old, depending. You might be able to buy something that is bolt in with everything you want for just a little more.

As for suspension, I agree with most everyone else. The Clayton system is probably one of the best price LA out there and will be much cheaper than trying to do a custom 4 link with coilovers.

:beer:

Trevor
 
R

Root Moose

Guest
From what I've read the 8.8 being a C-clip axle is a non-issue. You aren't going to break it.

Is the Clayton setup a four link or radius arm? If it were me I'd look hard at a "proper" four link. It truly is splitting hairs kind of thing for the most part though.

You could always put in rear leaves too. :D That may not be as crazy as it sounds...

What about running TJ Rubicon axles? They are the right width, have an air locker and geared at 4.1:1. Sure, it's not ideal (ratio, D30 outers, thin tubes) but realistically is it that big a deal?

Just throwing that out there.

If you decide to go nuts... you could get Schreiner to build you a custom 9" full floater with disk brakes and ARB and be done with it. :) And get a high pinion Dana 44 for the front somewhere else. It's just money. :)
 
K

knockout18

Guest
I'm running an 8.8 on a 98 TJ, your welcome to take a closer look.

The width difference is closer to 1/2 inch than 2 inches.

I'm happy with it and the disc brakes in the rear are a nice enhancement.
If you run a rear sway bar there are some considerations which I addressed.
(I do run a rear sway bar)

It can handle a lot of power and torque. It's good enough for my Mustang, it's good enough for my jeep.

JUST JEEPS 128 OAKDALE RD. Toronto Ont.
is another potential resource.
:cool:
 
aweber

aweber

This thread is :rainbow:
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Club Member


http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/Jeep-TJ-Weld-On-4-Link-Rear-Kit-p-2072.html

Do it right from the beginning :flipoff:

Mainly, make sure you get rid of those crappy Jeep frame side link mounts, Just ask Brad :lmao:
 
J

Jason

Guest
One thing no one mentioned was the fact the tubes in the 8.8 can spin.(Maybe I missed it?!?!?) Should be welded in place if you plan on riding her hard.
 
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