I need advice on a 4" lift regarding axels

[Tarquinn]

I have saved enough for a 4' lift now methinks. I was going to do 33's and a
4" lift from rough country.

Should I upgrade axels at the same time (I have a stock 2003 TJ with 30's I think they are)

or is it something that is not really required yet at this stage. They are crazy expensive to install I hear.

 

[Twinkie]

Running 33's and with the right frame of mind you can keep with the 35/30 combo. If you don't keep the right frame of mind and like to use the skinny pedal, expect to hear that clinking sound of a snapping axle though. Seriously, alot of members run the 30/35 combo on 33's. You'll be fine as a newbie with that set up.

 

[Baja]

Terry is right, as long as you arn't a wild man with the skinny peddle you will be fine. I am running this setup on my XJ right now, is has survived so far. (think I just jinked myself) :banghead:

 

[Farm Boy]

Ya, keep the stock axles for now. Save up for bigger ones later if/when you need them.
It's either a lot of cash and some work for Rubi D44s or a lot of work and some cash for some 60s.
Either way, axle swap is further down the road, you may never get there.

R&P gears woudn't hurt though.

 

[Tarquinn]

I was wondering about lift kits in general, im not completly useless, Like, I know how to swing a wrench, can anyone with experience in doing it yourself give me advice on if its feasable to do my own install of it or is it better for the laymen to just pay a company to install it (I was thinking of national 4wd in smithfalls anyone deal with them before?)

 

[Mitko]

I was wondering about lift kits in general, im not completly useless, Like, I know how to swing a wrench, can anyone with experience in doing it yourself give me advice on if its feasable to do my own install of it or is it better for the laymen to just pay a company to install it (I was thinking of national 4wd in smithfalls anyone deal with them before?)

I had installed the above mentioned lift kit quite a few times, one even for me. It is a piece of cake if:
You have basic knowleges of how-to-wrench.
If you have a good quality tools, the only special tool required is the pitman arm remover/puller clamp.
If you are not afraid of geting dirty and scratched.
And last but not the least - if your beloved **** is not a piece of completelly rusted crap in which case you will need a torch, penetrating oil and, BIG sledg hammer and a lot of patiance and time.

Bottom line - if you dont feel confident, let it done by somebody else.
I can do it too.

 

[Tarquinn]

What are the chances of finding someone on this forum who I could pay in beer plus a couple hundred for their time and their expertise?

 

[DoctorPhate]

Pretty good I'd say. I'd come by and help but I haven't done too much when it comes to installing lift kits. I'm sure someone will help you out though. But if you don't mind driving 45 minutes you could come by my place in Brockville and I know someone who could help you out.

 

[Tarquinn]

that would be amazing, It will take me a bit to get my lift because I havent ordered it, but when I do ill be sure to hit you up

 

[DoctorPhate]

Probably other people around too willing to volunteer their time and probably a lot closer. The only thing is my place in brockville has an uninsulated garage and I'm not sure how willing the guy i know will be to work in the cold lol.

 

[Mitko]

What are the chances of finding someone on this forum who I could pay in beer plus a couple hundred for their time and their expertise?

Just get your kit and let me know, how simple is that?

 

[DoctorPhate]

Just get your kit and let me know, how simple is that?

There you go Tarquinn. Still remember how to work on Jeeps mitko, I know you used to own one. :lmao:

 

[Tarquinn]

one last question, for my purposes I just want to be able to run better trails without it falling apart and still be a safe daily driver, I was wondering if anyone could explain to me what why I might need to go with the second one over the first one im pretty much a noob and want to be as cheep as possible, because in the end, after I get tires its going to be at least 2200$ if i go for the second option.

500$

"Front: Lifted coil springs, lower tubular control arms, solid tubular transfer case drop kit, and sway-bar links.

Rear: Lifted coil springs, lower tubular control arms, track bar drop bracket, and sway-bar links. "

1000$

"Front: Lifted coil springs, upper and lower adjustable X-Flex control arms, track bar drop bracket, adjustable front track bar, stainless steel brake lines, drop pitman arm, and sway-bar disconnects.

Rear: Lifted coils springs, upper and lower adjustable X-Flex control arms, track bar drop bracket, lower shock brackets, and stainless steel brake line.
"

and by the way, thanks for entertaining my questions, I really love how friendly and helpful this community is

 

[Root Moose]

Second set of parts is adding adjustability for pinion angles and dropping the front Panhard bar back to a stockish inclination angle. It is also supplying longer stainless brake hoses. You don't need them to be stainless but since you will be needing new ones to take advantage of your new flex anyway it doesn't hurt.

The second set of parts is likely what you'll end up buying in the long run but doesn't address rear pinion and prop-shaft angles or a slip yoke eliminator (SYE). The first option has a transfer case drop kit (i.e. kludge) as a work around.

Get on Jeepforum and research the hell out of TJ lifts. There are sooooo many options no one can really tell you what is best. I can tell you what you need to make it drive like stock but you'll be broke at the end of it.

 

[louie]

the second kit you listed is the 4x kit which I have, IMO spend the extra 200 and get the long arm kit!!!