If you are looking for a CB...

[2Greys]

As some of you know I have had some issues with my CB. I had picked up a new one out of the states to replace my old one which had died. Basically what was happening was this one would work with the engine off and no active signal coming in. If the engine was on or once a signal came in it would sieze up and appear to be getting a full transmit. Contacted the manufacturer and it was going to end up costing me about the same for a new one to send it back on Warranty.
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[2Greys]

I thought he might have been. Forgot to ask when I was there. As I recalled they had weird hours as well.

 

[2Greys]

Looking at pictures of the old place it looks like all they did was move walls around so yeah.

 

[Logan]

Love procom. Loved that they open at 5:30... Easier to find parking with the tractor at that time.

 

[trixter192]

Glad to hear your CB is now working, now if I can get my damn brake booster to stop making noise over mine. If I can't find a solution on the fjcruiserforums, I'll check them out.

 

[Richard]

Glad to hear your CB is now working, now if I can get my damn brake booster to stop making noise over mine. If I can't find a solution on the fjcruiserforums, I'll check them out.

Is the CB connected directly to the battery? That will give it the cleanest power, though you have to remember to turn it off!

 

[2Greys]

I think his is a hand held.

Is the CB connected directly to the battery? That will give it the cleanest power, though you have to remember to turn it off!

 

[trixter192]

It's not exactly handheld, just compact. It's the cobra 75. It's very very close to the battery, basically shares a circuit with the trailer brake controller (which is dormant). Forgive my lack of knowledge, but my brake booster is the type that's always under pressure. I feel the buzzing sound in the brakes every second time I brake. I just need to figure out where that is, so I can avoid it or shield it.

edit:
"FJ has en electric pump booster, instead of a vacuum booster like most cars. It is essentially an "air-over-hydraulic" system like the one used in military vehicles, some construction machinery and mid-size diesel trucks."

So, it's a common problem just like washer fuid pumps.

 

[gapwedge]

Glad they could help. I was pleased by their service tuning my rig (for free), and the early opening is actually convenient.

 

[2Greys]

It's not exactly handheld, just compact. It's the cobra 75. It's very very close to the battery, basically shares a circuit with the trailer brake controller (which is dormant). Forgive my lack of knowledge, but my brake booster is the type that's always under pressure. I feel the buzzing sound in the brakes every second time I brake. I just need to figure out where that is, so I can avoid it or shield it.

edit:
"FJ has en electric pump booster, instead of a vacuum booster like most cars. It is essentially an "air-over-hydraulic" system like the one used in military vehicles, some construction machinery and mid-size diesel trucks."

So, it's a common problem just like washer fuid pumps.

I think you need to try running at least the positive directly to the battery.
Don't know if you have seen this (it is from Cobra's site)
Eliminating Engine Noise
An automotive environment contains numerous sources for electrical noise:

• Alternator noise
• Ignition noise (high voltage to fire the spark plugs)
• Fan motor (blower motor)
• Electric fan on radiator
• Windshield wiper motor
• Electric Fuel Pump
• On-board computer (all newer cars have one)

Disconnect the antenna from the CB and see if you still hear the noise.

• If the noise stops, then the noise is entering through the antenna system.
• If you still hear the noise, then the noise is entering through the power wires.

Noise Entering Through Antenna System

1. Ground the chassis of the radio by connecting a wire from a ground screw under the dash to a screw on the side of the radio.
2. The antenna cable may be picking up noise. Try re-routing the antenna cable.
3. Try relocating the antenna to a different part of the vehicle (if possible).
4. If you are still having problems, then see below.

Noise Entering Through Power Leads

1. Ground the chassis of the radio by connecting a wire from a ground screw under the dash to a screw on the side of the radio.
2. Try another source of power. The cleanest source of power is directly from the battery. If you connect directly to the battery, shielded cable is recommended to prevent noise pickup from the ignition system. It is also recommended to use a 5 amp fuse right at the battery when connecting directly to the battery.
3. Try installing a noise filter on the power leads, as close as possible to the radio. Radio Shack sells several automotive noise filters, such as part number 270-051 (recommended).

 

[trixter192]

Thanks, I went through thesew steps, It's an antenna problem. I'll try re-routing my cable the next time I open the console.

 

[trixter192]

I'm going to bring this back from the dead.

The brake noise for the most part is gone, can't explain why. Whatever.

And Other CB stuff:

The right angle 3/8 base separated from the wire, and some of the grounding strands broke off. I used liquid electrical tape to seal it up and strengthen it. That and using a ton of electrical tape to cover the adjustable tip brought my SWR to 3.5. I replaced the electrical tape tip with part of an ink pen and my SWR was 2.5. I installed a quick disconnect along with the heavy duty spring from 2012 brought it down to ~1.5. Getting the antenna further past the roof line is the most help. A little tuning and I was down to 1.0 on channel 4. I tune to perform best on that channel because it's the only channel I use on the trails. On the other channels I don't get higher than 1.9.