You want the coles notes version or the long winded one? :flipoff:
-Definately brakes on both axles, you wouldn't drive your truck with only one end braking.
-Check where the wires run thru the frame, some places use gromets, some don't
-Full wood deck rather than steel or open center, much more useful for other things if need be.
-Most trailers in this category are 7000lbs with the trailer weighing 1800-2000 of that. If you can find a good deal on a 10,000 I'd get that but usually a big price jump. Basically all of us run with our trailers at or close to max capacity.
- 83" is the widest you will find between the fenders, many only 80"
- Custom work WILL be required to get your rig on without distroying the fenders. I'd suggest building a set of removable "ramps" that match the fender so you can drive up & over
- Deck-over design will allow up to 102" in width but raises COG significantly.
- Make sure the tires AND rims are for trailers, if they are not, they'll take a beating.
- Trailer wiring is always a PITA, make sure it's well protected.
- Lights should be sealed units or LED, the ones with replaceable bulbs are POS.
- Front rail is mandatory to keep your rig from rolling off the front as you try to tie it down. :banghead:
- Check the location of the jack, my tailgate hit mine when I tried to lower it, had to move the jack.
- Fold up ramps (like Bill's) are more convenient than removable but are usually more noisy and drag alot of air. They also prevent puting anything longer than the deck (parts Suburban?) on without jerry-rigging it.
- with removable rams, you also have the option of loading/unloading without the ramps if terrain permits.
- make sure you are happy with the tie down locations, that they will work without rubbing/binding the straps or chains
- if you use straps to tie down, get axle straps also.
- I'm using chains 'cause all the equipment hauler use them
- You'll have to do some sort of custom work to have full support of the tires on a 83" deck.
- keep the deck height as low as possible but high enough not to drag.
- I don't like the beavertails but they make loading/unloading without ramps easier.
- side stake pockets and rub rails give alot of tiedown options for other items.
If you can, I'd find someone to custom build one for you:
Deck between to keem the COG low but infront and back of the trailer tires make it full width to the outside of the trailer tires. You'd have 80" or 83" between the fenders (still require drive over ramps) and 102" for the rest of the deck.
Did I miss anything?
:beer:
