l/f Ignition coil for 90+ Samurai

[Loco]

As the title states: Looking for a coil for a fuel injected Sami. Even if someone has one I could borrow to rule it in/out. PM me or call 613 Seven Six Nine 3322.

 

[whateverworks]

I have an aftermarket Accel coil in mine... Seems to work great and is much cheeper than a direct replacement coil...
For keeping the coil wire in it I have a zip tie around the boot in the coil as well as the dizzy...
Kelly

 

[Loco]

Thanks Kelly I'll look into that. Where did you get yours? In the mean time if someone has one I could test with just to make sure it is the problem before throwing $ at it that would be great.

 

[whateverworks]

It actually came with the buggy when I bought it from a freind.
If you want to test your ign. coil use a multi-meter and check it for resistance... Disconnect all wires from the coil and run your multi meter leads on positive and negative side of the coild and look see the amount of resistance on the multi-meter...
0 ohms means it's dead and the copper windings inside are burned or broken.
20-40 ohms and the coil is ok... (I think this reading is correct)
A very high reading on the multi-meter and possibly the windindings are burned and stuck together or the fluid in the coil is all burned up.
Try these steps on this website... http://autorepair.about.com/od/troubleshooting/ss/coil-test-ohm.htm
Kelly

 

[Loco]

ya I took the ohmmeter to it; primary is supposed to be 1.35-1.65 ohms but reads 1.9, secondary should be 11.0-13.5k ohms but reads 17k. The manual says to replace if out of spec but would it stop producing a spark at these readings?

 

[whateverworks]

Hook a sppark plug to the dizzy side of the coil wire and ground it out to the engine block... Pull the fuse for the fuel pump for safety and turn the key to see if ya have a spark jumping across the plug...
No spark = fucked coil...
Kelly

 

[Loco]

Yep did that, no spark. Just making sure there wasn't something else that could be causing the issue before spending money on something I don't need. Sounds pretty safe to say it's the coil. Anyone know of a local source for an aftermarket coil such as an Accel, etc?

 

[whateverworks]

Last test is easy...
12v light bulb...
Un hook positive and negative from coil... hook light up to positive and negative... if light come on then both power and ground are good. If no light when key is turned to run position then look for a remote ground to chassis... if light comes on you have a bad ground to the coil... if no light then you have no amperage running through the positive wire when grounded to chassis...
Kelly