My "Big Baby" Axle Swap thread

[2Greys]

Had a couple minutes and decided to confirm pinion preload was within spec. Yukon states 6-8ftlbs for used bearings but it was reading 2 but that is withtoo large of a socket 1 1/8 rather than 1 1/16 so that may be dicking with the readings. Need to find my socket. But if it is I may be able to get away with just removing a shim since I did the crush washer eliminator, could also just need to be tightened down as well. If not I guess I may have to use the spare crush washer I have kicking around. I also took a closer look at the pinion teeth and looks like they are still brand new just like the ring. That said they may have maybe 10 thousand kms on them at most

 

[2Greys]

Slapped the locker back in as I got the new ring bolts in (recommend getting the Ford racing bolts as they are a bigger head)
So right now I am getting about a .013 backlash which is good. Waiting for marking paint to come in but I suspect the pattern is going to be ok. I threw some antisieze on as a make do marking paint and it kind of looked like it would be ok but it doesnt come off as clear so need to wait.
Also tried to see if there is any lateral play but I couldn't fit a .006 feeler gauge in between the shims and the diff. So the question are:
1. How do I determine how much more? I figure it will be forcing the bearing race further on the bearing
2. Assuming I put an extra 10 thou or so, should I put 5 thou on each side or all of them on the passenger (ring is on driver side). I would think all on the passenger since the backlash is set on the driver side so putting more there would force decrease backlash

 

[2Greys]

Got 13 thou back lash and about 7 inlb of pinion preload. This time I also have more than sufficient carrier preload.

Took a pattern and here is what I got
Drive:

Coast:

Keep in mind that these are used gears. I am still running the pinion depth I had before. Looking at the Coast side it appears ok as although it is close to the toe that is considered acceptable. Drive side, is more centered but could be a bit deeper on the tooth (although there is a bit of paint at top of tooth) which would involve moving the Pinion in. From what I have read for used gears it is better to go by the coast side than the drive.

 

[Function > Form]

Props to taking this on. I am terrified to do this to my DD, but would do the gear swap if I convert to off-road only.

Looks to be a 'fun process'.

 

[2Greys]

Props to taking this on. I am terrified to do this to my DD, but would do the gear swap if I convert to off-road only.

Looks to be a 'fun process'.

It is detail oriented which has never been my strength, and the key thing is don't take shortcuts but it is pretty straightforward if you get a good grasp on what you are doing. Probably the biggest stumbling block is the tools required. I think I ended up spending about 600 or so just in tools but have used most in other situations. When I did it , I had just stopped daily driving it so it could sit in my driveway for a month without moving. Just wish they made the locker lighter

At this point I am buttoning it all up. It shouldn't be any louder than it was before (I hope)

 

[2Greys]

All done. Doesn't seem any louder than before. Almost seems quieter but that could be my imagination. Conveniently right afterwards the Crankshaft position sensor decided to kick the bucket. Installed a new one today and all seems good....for now.