Need help with Hi-steer

M

Morley

Guest
I'll be installing my hi-steer kit this week and have read alot on the install however what I am not very clear on is the whole shim thing :clue:

Can I not just re-use the existing shims in the knuckles and call it a day?

Does anyone have a pull scale I can borrow to check steering arm resistance on the knuckle?
 
Farm Boy

Farm Boy

Bought the Farm
What axle is this on?
Are you refering to the cone washers? I think that they are suposed to be single use like a lock washer but we all reuse them.
 
aweber

aweber

This thread is :rainbow:
Staff member
Club Member
Nah, there are shims sandwiched between the steering arm and the knuckle, as well as on the bottom.. Their whole purpose is to set the load on the king pin bearings as well as center the knuckle in relation to the housing.

I re-used the shims on mine, just kept track on what was on the bottom and top, torqued to specs and measured with a pull scale and all has been fine.

But if you get it wrong, and the knuckle is not centered in relation to the housing, you will find that the inner oil seal on the birfields will leak.

Bottom line is, just re-use the top shims and you should be OK....

BTW-You just need a $5.00 fish scale from CT to measure the pre-load...
 
M

Morley

Guest
Thanks for the insight :)

I'll grab a pull scale from crappy tire tomorow.
My birfs are already leaking and I'm sure they are in desperate need of a rebuild. Maybe I'll tackle this in a couple more weeks...


aweber said:
Nah, there are shims sandwiched between the steering arm and the knuckle, as well as on the bottom.. Their whole purpose is to set the load on the king pin bearings as well as center the knuckle in relation to the housing.

I re-used the shims on mine, just kept track on what was on the bottom and top, torqued to specs and measured with a pull scale and all has been fine.

But if you get it wrong, and the knuckle is not centered in relation to the housing, you will find that the inner oil seal on the birfields will leak.

Bottom line is, just re-use the top shims and you should be OK....

BTW-You just need a $5.00 fish scale from CT to measure the pre-load...
Click to expand...
 
M

Morley

Guest
A couple of problems I am having...

1.) The driver side steering arm on the knuckle "Will not come off"
This thing is 23yrs old and has never been removed I'm sure of it.

Tried heating with propane torch for 4-5mins and chisel with hammer to whack it upwards, but it wont budge.. After spending about 2.5hrs on it yesterday I was getting ready to sledge hammer the arm upwards.... So I did...
That thing still wont pop off...

Any tricks/ideas? I'm thinking I will need to re-asseble bring it somewhere to use OA torches on it to get it red hot before it will move..



2.) Driver side knuckle only has about 4lbs of resistance on the pull scale...
What does this mean? Bearing is shot?
 
aweber

aweber

This thread is :rainbow:
Staff member
Club Member
It is usually the cone washers that stop them. Try hitting on the TOP of the studs with a hammer, the impact will usually cause the cone washers to loosen.

Depending on if you are replacing the studs with ARP or Trail-Gear, feel free to hit them REALLY hard :D
 
Mlorint

Mlorint

Well-known member
I was able to unscrew the studs out of the knuckle and then its easy to get off. I think the studs are an inverted torx socket.
 
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