Build Project - SS Cherokee

[mucovich]

Won't that square tube give you a fairly rough ride? To save weight I figure with running those two square tubes you wouldn't need a reason to run the three front control arms, right?

that's why i have suspensions seats!

 

[Impact]

that's why i have suspensions seats!

:lmao:

 

[chunkytrunks]

Looking good! So what length Ori you end up deciding on?

 

[mucovich]

I am going with 14's, i'm planning on 6" of uptravel which leaves 8" of usable down travel which is good - i'm still going to use limit straps as insurance but the numbers work - i played with the orientation of the axle today to get a better pinion angle, with the axle setup with coils i only had 6.5" - 7" of down travel before with it strapped so with me playing around with it i'll get more. I believe i've settled with the shocks around 5ish degrees angled back and 10ish degrees angled to center. But i'll finalize those numbers when i get the shocks.

worked on the shock hoops today (no pics) built the attachments to the frame, painted a battery box and fixed up the "hard luck" trophy (will be bringing it in on Thursday)

 

[mucovich]

Since the battery is going in the back and i need to rewire it so I was thinking of adding a battery cutoff swith to the system. I see that you can get simple key switches for faily cheap but i noticed that alot of builds down south use marine grade switches. I was just wondering if a regular switch will do or should i go with a marine grade one?

What is everyones opinion on wire gauge, i can get 2 gauge wire for free - is there a need to go with 1 gauge? Battery won't be anymore than 8-10 ft from the starter/motor.

 

[Impact]

Since the battery is going in the back and i need to rewire it so I was thinking of adding a battery cutoff swith to the system. I see that you can get simple key switches for faily cheap but i noticed that alot of builds down south use marine grade switches. I was just wondering if a regular switch will do or should i go with a marine grade one?

What is everyones opinion on wire gauge, i can get 2 gauge wire for free - is there a need to go with 1 gauge? Battery won't be anymore than 8-10 ft from the starter/motor.

You could probably find a green T-handle master switch fairly easy...

 

[2Greys]

I was at one point looking at finding a cutoff switch for my winch (heard horror stories of motors malfunctioning and leading to electrical fires). The big issue is it is hard (next to impossible) to find one that can handle the amperage of a winch in the last wrap. Warn estimated about 650+amps at that level and most cutoffs were around 500A. Unless you are planning on wiring your winch directly to the battery you will want to make sure whatever switch you have will be able to handle it.

 

[mucovich]

good point, my plan is to wire the winch directly to the battery as the solenoid is going to be under the dash, i figured if i was running the cable up through the passanger area why not install a cutoff in the console. I picked up one recently with the plastic key (like a T handle one George). i'll check to see if i can find specs on the amperage the engine electronics will draw and compare to the switch rating - i'm now wondering if i shoudn't just get a marine grade one as the are rated for a high amperage.

 

[bradleyfitz]

My cutoff switch is the standard one from summit. I have it wired for ground... much simpler and when you flick the switch everything dies, including the motor. Ok, it doesn't work now because I goofed some wiring along the way, but it used to

 

[mucovich]

My cutoff switch is the standard one from summit. I have it wired for ground... much simpler and when you flick the switch everything dies, including the motor. Ok, it doesn't work now because I goofed some wiring along the way, but it used to

haha, nice!

 

[mucovich]

Some minor updates...

picked up these today, switch and power distribution block...

 

[mucovich]

relocated the hydro resi...



yes, wires are a bit of a mess but all this is just mock-up so wires will be policed up when finished.



relocated the engine fuse block...

 

[mucovich]

almost finished the hoops, just need to build the hoop support that crosses over the engine tying everything in...



installed a shock to check for clearances through the suspension cycle, yes i know the ORIs will be bigger but everything clears with lots of room.



And finally - going to the dark side, round lights!

 

[mucovich]

on a side note...

Just thought i'd post up what else i've been helping work on. this is my buddy Chads' rig who once he gets this thing running will be out with the club. TJ with a front 3/4 Dana 44 (yes, my old one) and a 9" rear, 3 link front 4 link stretched rear with 36" iroks and a bunch of other stuff.

 

[mucovich]

And a few more...

 

[Impact]

Damn it maybe Chad's will be done first! I havent stopped by his place lately but the TJ is looking good. Nice control arm color

Have you found a place to charge your ORI locally? Have you ordered them yet? I just cleaned off my front end so I can mock up a leaf pack...

 

[mucovich]

Chad's is on hold till spring - work stuff. I may have suggested the colour , ORIs are ordred but i probably won't see them till end of next month and I figure i'll pick up a charge kit once they come in and just get the nitrogen locally (Lynde). Leaf pack? I thought you were doing coils in the front?

 

[mucovich]

Well i thought i'd post up some minor updates to the rig,

I got the creative juices going and got in touch with my inner Picaso for some racing stripes - guarantied an extra 75 hp...



and keeping in line with small updates - battery switch installed on console...



battery box...



no pics, but the exhaust has been redone - ran it all the way out to the rear with a turndown so should sound good.

 

[Impact]

With those racing stripes you better stay away from all the local high schools or the girls will be all over you! :lmao:

 

[mucovich]

I know Dwayne feels my pain, started cleaning up the wiring harness...