Skidplate + Traction bar fabrication

[Duct_Taper]

Hey all,

I am looking into starting work on fabbing up a new crossmember/skidplate and traction bar for my SOA YJ. Had a few questions and was hoping some of you might have some advice for me.

- I was planning to make the crossmember/skidplate support with 2.5 x 2 x .25 steel angle at the frame and 2 x 1.5 x .125 rectangular tubing for the crossmembers (3 tubes, front/rear/center of the skidplate). Should that be strong enough?

- What would you recommend for the skidplate material? I...

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[BillaVista]

Hey all,

I am looking into starting work on fabbing up a new crossmember/skidplate and traction bar for my SOA YJ. Had a few questions and was hoping some of you might have some advice for me.

- I was planning to make the crossmember/skidplate support with 2.5 x 2 x .25 steel angle at the frame and 2 x 1.5 x .125 rectangular tubing for the crossmembers (3 tubes, front/rear/center of the skidplate). Should that be strong enough?

- What would you recommend for the skidplate material? I was thinking I'd use 3/16" or 1/4" flat plate, or possibly 1/8" reinforced with 1 x 1 angle.

- For the traction bar, is 1.5 x .125 wall tube strong enough? It'll be a standard ladder bar setup.

- Is there anywhere in Ottawa to buy decent quality rod ends? I am going to need a single 3/4 x 3/4 rod end for the traction bar attachment at the shackle end.

Thanks in advance,
-Paul

Material choice appears sound - but will depend somewhat on design. Good design with lighter materials is always better than porr design with heavier materials. That said - design can be complex so often we "up-size" the materials. Your choices seem reasonable.

I would prob. use 1/4" for the skidplate - depending on how big the unsupported spans are you may wish to add some bracing too.

Again, the 1.5 x .120 tubing is fine for the bar as long as it is designed / installed well (i.e. not loaded in bending). Assuming you're not running 700 HP into the rear. The soundness of the mounting points at the axle and frame are the keys to a happy anti-wrap bar. Good clean well-fitting parts are key.

 

[Duct_Taper]

Great, thanks for the info.

I have attached a paint drawing of my idea. The skidplate will use the idea as shown for the support and the trans/tcase crossmember, and then the plate will be bolted to it for the skidplate portion. Approx dimensions are 2.5 ft for the angles along the frame, and between 3 and 3.5 ft width for the crossmembers, with a 2-3" drop from the frame level. The rear crossmember will also be used as the attachment point for the wrap bar, which is the "shackle" thing at the bottom.

My idea for that is to use a bushing to attach the shackle at the crossmember, and then have the heim bolt through it so that the attachment point of the wrap bar has the flex it will need. Maybe some misalignment spacers are in order? I was planning to just use bushings at the axle end of the wrap bar.

Any comments?

Thanks again,
-Paul

 

[Duct_Taper]

Also, I have heard that the wrap bar should go on the passenger side if possible. I might be able to make it fit there, but it would be a big pain to get around the exhaust. Will it be alright on the driver's side?

 

[Duct_Taper]

Even with the shackle setup how I have it drawn there?

Here is a better pic, from BTF's site, of what I am planning to do.

Maybe I'm just being thick, but I don't understand why the connections at the axle end need to have any significant flex in them.