TJ 2" budget boost

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Kyle TJ

Guest
Just thought I'd post this on here incase anyone has upgraded from a spacer lift to something bigger and might have 2" coil spacers kicking around. Even better if you have spacers and shocks!
For a jeep TJ.
Let me know.
Thanks
 
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derekdr

Guest
I have 2 new procomp spacers and will have 2 used ones as soon as I get then out
 
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Kyle TJ

Guest
Rikker, with 3" springs I would just need to upgrade my shocks and I'd have a 3" lift? Any other upgrades required to go to 3"?
 
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derekdr

Guest
You would probably be ok with 3" but if it's your dd you may have to drop the transfer case skid 1" or get a sye but if your lucky you'll be ok there, if you wheel it you should get longer shocks if not they are ok but if it's your dd you should have longer track bar and control arms for a 3" lift for allignment.
 
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Kyle TJ

Guest
Thanks Derek, it is a daily driver that get wheeled. Defenitly would need shocks. Sounds like I should stick to 2" because beides the other stuff, I don't want to go up from my 31" tires for now. Can't afford tires :p
 

2Greys

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Club Member
Sye isn't necessarily needed with a 3" lift. You might need only a mml which will change the angle of the engine. That's what I have
 
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Kyle TJ

Guest
so I would need longer control arms? And how much is a longer track bar worth? also, would it require a drop pitman arm?
I think I'd like 3" of lift, as long as it doesnt cost an arm and a leg.
 

2Greys

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Club Member
It all depends. Firstly most people do not need an SYE until about 4" of lift. However everyone is different and I have heard people getting vibes at even 2".
If you need an SYE you need the following:
SYE: ~200
New rear drive shaft 350-450
New rear adjustable control arms: $250
New rear adjustable track bar and bracket: $150 -350
The last is forgotten a lot as it isn't necessary off the bat but what ends up happening is because the control arms are used to point the axle pinion at the Transfer Case it ends up causing the track bar to bind at the axle side and could end up tearing the axle side bracket off. Not a great thing to happen.

You never need a drop pitman arm unless the front trackbar is modified and dropped even if the lift you get provides a drop one. If you don't touch the axle side of the front track bar, you don't touch the pitman. You need to keep the track bar and the drag link parallel with each other. If you don't you get nasty case of bumpsteer.

One of the benefits of SYE is you can then do a tummy tuck which increases your clearance of your Transfer case by up to almost 2". Also depending on how the bushings in your existing control arms are you may want to look at doing all new control arms. Couple of companies have adjustable control arms using Johnny Joints that improve the ride and articulation. You are looking at spending about $1000-1200 to replace all 8 of them. The benefit with those as well is when you lift a Jeep your wheels start moving into the center of the vehicle due to the nature of the fixed CAs. Adjustables allow you to dial in the pinion angles for both the front and back and get the wheels back into the middle of the wheel wells.
What I did last year was get a Zone 3" lift which was about $499 and a Currie TJJ front Adjustable Trackbar (I needed a new TB as I had developed Death Wobble and took the opportunity to go with the best out there) and that was about $300. Looking back I should have looked at a kit that included new Control Arms all around as I think my bushings are probably going to be needing replacing in a year or two. But whatever.
Vibe wise, I have zero unless I am doing 45 and downshift and pin it, then it shows up for about 2 seconds and disappears.

What I would in your case is plan for the worst but expect the best. Get a cheap 3" lift (Zone or Rough Country are below $500 and you can get them through PJF) and put it on. If you find you are having minor vibes, get a 1" MML (I recommend Brown Dog) and see if that takes it away. It is an upgrade as it lifts your engine a bit giving you a little more clearance under it. At that point you may want to start saving up and getting an SYE.
Dropping your TC skid is a workaround but when you think about it, you just lifted it for more clearance but then lost an inch because of the TC drop. You can do it but it should never be used as a permanent solution. The thing you learn about jeeps is that you go cheap, it will cost you more in the long run as you end up replacing it with something better. If I had the money I would have done this. It comes with 3" lift, all adustable control Arms, new front trackbar and Currie Antirock for $2k. If you are a member of Jeepforum you get 10% off and I believe they will remove the antirock which would bring it down to about 1600-1700.
 
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K

Kyle TJ

Guest
awesome info!
I think I'm gonna have to opt for a 2" BB lift for now. No wiggle room in the budget for anything serious. HOWEVER... As a licensed millwright with access to a full shop at work, would it really be that difficult to make my own adjustable control arms with Johnny joints? They cost a fortune, but really look like there's not much to it... Just wondering. Hell, I've seen guys build long arm kits from square tubing with nuts welded on the ends and johnny joints... simple replacement short arms should be easy.

Thanks!
 

2Greys

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Club Member
I would say probably not too hard and if you did I may look at buying some off of you :). Others on here could probably guide you in the right steps. To be honest I have thought about it as well. Majority of the cost of the CAs is the JJs. You would need 4 JJs for the UCAs and the bungs (although you could possibly tap the rod?). For Curries, the JJs start at $41 each and the bungs are $20 so just the JJs are putting you back $170 plus shipping and however much your time is worth to you.
I would look at getting a 2" suspension lift over pucks to be honest. Putting a BB on gives you net 2" over what your existing springs are which probably have sagged. So you may be getting only a 1-1.5" lift. Also I believe (could be wrong) you don't get as much up travel with pucks as it is putting more tension on the springs as you would with a suspension lift
 
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zuk4life

Guest
call danny at pjf 4x4 405- 424 -0330 he will give you the best price
 

Kunker

Administrator
Club Member
I would say probably not too hard and if you did I may look at buying some off of you :). Others on here could probably guide you in the right steps. To be honest I have thought about it as well. Majority of the cost of the CAs is the JJs. You would need 4 JJs for the UCAs and the bungs (although you could possibly tap the rod?). For Curries, the JJs start at $41 each and the bungs are $20 so just the JJs are putting you back $170 plus shipping and however much your time is worth to you.

Or get weld on joints and skip the bungs. Mike is also making weld in bungs now, so that's a local option that might save some $$$. There are many different joint types/styles available other than the Johnny Joints, although the consensus seems to be JJ's for something DD'd as they absorb a bit of the road noise.
 
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