Brake line fittings

[Cochise]

Anybody know where I can get my hands on some brake (hard) line fittings?

And a place that has a flaring tool (double flare) and/or does flaring?

Picked up some lines to replace mine on the XJ, and even brought the old lines in to get the right size, and it seems the fittings, although they look the same, with the same tread, don't fit. Probably AN and not OE or something. The guys at the counter even double checked.

:banghead:

Yet another setback in the project. issed:

 

[DoctorPhate]

Canadian tire has all that stuff.

 

[Root Moose]

You can get the double flare kit at Princess. It's not in the correct location if you can't find it - it is not with the single and bubble flare kits. I had to ask someone to find it as it was illogically located. IIRC it is on the front (east) of one of the aisles two aisles south of the where the bubble flare stuff is (this was ~3 weeks ago).

Which fittings are you looking for specifically? Using the Canadian tire pre-made lines, XJs use "American" style fittings. The "Japanese" fittings will thread but it is not correct. The "European" lines are a bubble flare. Only reason why I know this is because I had to use Jap and US lines to mix-n-match to get my Jap calipers plumbed into my XJ.

HTH

 

[Cochise]

You can get the double flare kit at Princess. It's not in the correct location if you can't find it - it is not with the single and bubble flare kits. I had to ask someone to find it as it was illogically located. IIRC it is on the front (east) of one of the aisles two aisles south of the where the bubble flare stuff is (this was ~3 weeks ago).

I think I know which aisle you mean. Two over south (towards the front door) from where the 4WD ball joint presses (which happen to be 1 section up (east) from where they're listed to be, same aisle). No wonder I missed it. I got there 5 P.M. on Saturday, and there was only one guy on the floor, and he was busy as heck. Had a mobile line up following him around the store waiting their turn. He found me the tube bender they had (on sale too), which was in another illogical place. I was pretty impressed he knew where to find it. :glasses:

Which fittings are you looking for specifically? Using the Canadian tire pre-made lines, XJs use "American" style fittings. The "Japanese" fittings will thread but it is not correct. The "European" lines are a bubble flare. Only reason why I know this is because I had to use Jap and US lines to mix-n-match to get my Jap calipers plumbed into my XJ.

HTH

Helps a lot, thanks Mang. I'm running the stock drums (new wheel cylinders 'cuz the nipple broke on one side, and the fitting on the other was rust welded, twisting and breaking the line, of course), so it's 3/8 fittings (3/16th line).

On the up side, got the DPG lift on the front all installed (which included a bad UCA bushing to replace, and the stupid ring nut for the trackbar brace busting its welds, and whole other bunch of rusted and broken crap to deal with). The rear is done too, except that I have to cut the floor to extract the welded nuts for the shock mount (driver side only, thank Dog).

Funny how I USED to think cobalt drill bits were too expensive, versus how I now think they're undervalued for the time and grunt power they save. :lmao:

Now If'n I can get the brakes done, I can back the thing out of the garage, run it forward on ramps, and finally get to replacing the tail shaft on the TC with something more than 15" of clearance to work with.

 

[Mlorint]

most of the time you can reuse your fittings, just drill out the old line. Brake lines are either double or bubble flare.

 

[Cochise]

most of the time you can reuse your fittings, just drill out the old line. Brake lines are either double or bubble flare.

That's a great idea. Thanks Mike.

I'll pick up a flaring tool (double) tomorrow.

:beer:

 

[O.D.]

That's a great idea. Thanks Mike.

I'll pick up a flaring tool (double) tomorrow.

:beer:

If you can, stay away from the PA setup. I had nothing but problems with the barbed clamps that hold the line in place while you flare... It just kept slipping. For the extra amount of coin to get a good set, it would have been well worth it, considering the amount of headaches it caused me ..

 

[Root Moose]

??

The PA bar is identical to the CTC one minus the Mastercraft stamped on it... At least comparing the old CTC single flare kit to the new PA double flare kit...

The bars do suck (both). You have to use a vise grip or something to spin the wing nuts until the bar is seated against itself. Then the tube won't slip out.

$0.02

 

[O.D.]

Oh..... It will still slip, even with the grips tightening it till the bars contact each other!!!! Trust me

 

[Mlorint]

The only tool I've used that will not slip is the hydraulic flaring tools, they don't have bars that can bend.

 

[Root Moose]

Yeah, must be another one of those "design let down by crap Chinese manufacturing" things. You can buy two things made in China that were made side by side on the assembly line and one will work while the other won't.

Anyone seen the re-pop fenders and stuff coming over for Jeeps? Stay away... Don't line up and to add insult to injury a lot of time the metal is already rusting between the spot welds.

The world is going into the toilet via China it seems.

 

[Cochise]

The world is going into the toilet via China it seems.

China itself is now a chemical toilet.

You really have to go out of your way to buy anything NOT made in China. So when I buy crap made in China and it doesn't perform, I bring it back for a refund.

If enough people return crappy stuff, the costs will maybe make the companies notice that selling crap is hurting them.

Although, the markups sure haven't gone down much, while their costs have gone down to 30% of what they were. It would take a lot to move them off of this junk wagon.

 

[Mitko]

You are starting a really serious tread here. I personally do hate everything made in China, but it is 99.9% what we have in the stores. Honestly, I feel really happy when can buy something not made in china.

If enough people return crappy stuff, the costs will maybe make the companies notice that selling crap is hurting them.

It will not change anything untill we - the consumers dont change our priorities. Which I dont see to happend at the near future - just go at w-mart.

 

[Cochise]

Thanks for not spelling out all of the W word.

Last time I was there (which was under duress), I thought I was on the set of Idiocracy II.

 

[Cochise]

Ok, back on track with this thread.

Looks like I'm screwed for brake lines.

The front hard lines have to be replaced (the old fittings leak when attached to the SS flex line). Problem: they're discontinued at the dealership.

The main line to the rear axle also looks pretty scary, but I can probably piece together a bunch of sections from pre-made lines.

I'd rather not have to bend and route my own though, or at least keep that as a last option.

Any suggestions?

Do steel braided flex lines exist that are long enough to go from the Master Cylinder proportioning valve to the passenger side?

Any local shops do this sort of thing?

Thanks.

 

[Root Moose]

If it were me I'd get the straight, pre-made stuff from CTC, the little blue hand bender from PA (~$8?) and a double flare kit and go to town.

You could do the hard lines in stainless braid (custom) but I'm not sure if it is a good idea. The places where lines are hard mounted would need to be re-fangled, and it'll cost more for minimal gain IMO.

FWIW, I have long stainless braid air lines on my XJ for the air lockers. They are nice but because they are a "stock item" nowadays they are a lot cheaper than getting custom stuff made up.

There is a company state-side that does stainless hard lines (non-braided - real steel tube). IIRC the price was reasonable but expensive relatively speaking. I can just imagine what UPS will do with a cardboard box full of mostly air and a long multi-bend line. It'll be fubar by the time it gets to you.

If you end up using pre-made lines that are flared together with fittings then zap the fittings together with the MIG to ensure they can't turn out. It sucks when a fitting like that backouts due to vibrations when you are at speed on paved roads. Don't ask how I know.

 

[chunkytrunks]

The dealer may be able to get you the premade lines that go to the rear.

 

[Cochise]

If it were me I'd get the straight, pre-made stuff from CTC, the little blue hand bender from PA (~$8?) and a double flare kit and go to town.

Hmm, looks like I'll just have to bite the bullet and do it meself. Routing the front passenger side doesn't look fun.

Yeah, I picked up the bender last time I was at PA. On sale, too. 5 dolla.

There's something I discovered about the flare tools, though. I got one at CTC (same price as PA, surprisingly). Works well, but nowhere does it state what angle double flare it makes. Seems OE is 45 degrees and AN is 37 degrees which is hard to eyeball to know which is which.

If you end up using pre-made lines that are flared together with fittings then zap the fittings together with the MIG to ensure they can't turn out. It sucks when a fitting like that backouts due to vibrations when you are at speed on paved roads. Don't ask how I know.

I wondered about that. Thanks for the advice!

 

[Cochise]

The dealer may be able to get you the premade lines that go to the rear.

Thanks Matt. For that one, that may be the route I go.

 

[Root Moose]

...but nowhere does it state what angle double flare it makes. Seems OE is 45 degrees and AN is 37 degrees which is hard to eyeball to know which is which.

Pretty sure it'll be whatever automotive grade is (45 degrees).

AN fittings are considered "exotic" compared to auto grade stuff. You'll have to buy a flare tool from a specialist shop for AN I'd suspect.