Yello

[O.D.]

After posting some pics on facebook here and there, i have given up using that medium as it sucks.. Jeepkings is fine but it is just not local enough (Plus Adrian thinks the colors suck!!). So, here we go.....

After much contemplation, flipping back and forth, reviewing finances, getting the blessings from the boss, checking my psyche, i have decided to go ahead with implanting the HEMI into the Yellow TJ that i bought Sept 2012. I have decided that to ensure that the rest of the TJ will...

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[mucovich]

Looking forward to checking it out

 

[aweber]

Cool :beer:

Oh, and Crag back door is fine full width

 

[Kunker]

Curious to see how this goes. Any concerns with the ORI's and keeping it low? IIRC they need to be set up roughly mid travel at ride height for proper tuning do they not?

 

[Mitko]

sounds interesting and will follow it close despite my hate to one particular make.
I agree - FB sucks for this type of projects ....what about OJC - a lot of brain power is concentrated there.

 

[2Greys]

^^ LOL!!
looking forward to this. I have read some Hemi transplants on JeepForum so it will be great to see one done locally. definitely a project worth watching

 

[mucovich]

Curious to see how this goes. Any concerns with the ORI's and keeping it low? IIRC they need to be set up roughly mid travel at ride height for proper tuning do they not?

The original version did but you don't have too for the STX's. If you play with the oil levels you can do whatever you want

 

[Kunker]

The original version did but you don't have too for the STX's. If you play with the oil levels you can do whatever you want

Interesting - I've only done some very light reading on the ORI's. I just wish they weren't so much $$$ (yeah, I know, you save on the bump stops and sway bars)

 

[O.D.]

When you take into acct the C/O's, springs, sliders, straps, bump cans, potentially additional brackets, they are not that far off really. Sway bars are not a factor...

 

[Kunker]

...straps...

I was also under the impression that they recommend running a limiting strap anyway. Something else that has changed with the STX's?

 

[mucovich]

No straps, they limit themselves. Unless you need to limit it prior to full droop do to driveline issues/binding.

 

[Impact]

Finally!

PICTURES!?!?!?

 

[O.D.]

So, on with the pics and where i am.

In true Irish fashion, i was too stubborn to ask for any help in taking the tub off with the cage, dash, windshield still and instead enlisted the engine hoist... Didn't go as planned...

Once i got it picked up and licked my wounds, i got it settled down:

Then started to strip the frame of all it's parts:

Then started cutting off all the brackets:

Picked up some new body panels:

Then set the frame height to 24 5/8" from underside of frame to floor..

This was the height of the frame with the 35's and the tri-link lift. It left me about 1/2" from top of the garage door frame. So, this is what I have to work with height-wise, on 40's and 1 tons




I should have the day to myself tomorrow. I'll get the remaining brackets off the frame and then start in on the axles to remove the coil brackets and shock mounts. Rear 14bolt also has an axle seal leak so will have to get that replaced.... I am going to build some kind of work stand for the axles so they are raised a bit when working on them....

 

[Impact]

Nice little oops!

That spyder stuff looks sexy!

 

[O.D.]

So, i finally got all the brackets off.. That darn track bar mount is nasty to remove....

Moved on now to the axles and get them prepped. Took a few comments from my axle stand post and welded 'er up a set with those tray rollers for tires you can buy and then an axle stand welded to it... Works like a charm once you tie it down with ratchet straps...

Started in on the 14 bolt. Pulled the diff cover off (Bottom two bolt were soo worn from rock rash that i had to grind them off and then pull out the thread after the fact. Good thing it's setup with a Great Lakes Bullet cover. The thickness allowed a decent amount of thread to stick out and grab with pliers once i had the cover off!!!! They are THICK!!!!

Question... I want to replace the seals on the shafts but am unsure how i go about determining the year of the axle.. I know it's from the 80's and from a Cab and Chassis truck but does it matter if i am not exact on the year? Are there reference numbers on the housing that can be used to identify? I have not been able to find anything online in that regard....

 

[mucovich]

I had a hell of a time trying to figure out what year mine was too, in all my research I've found there are only 2 real versions - old and new style or 73-85 and 86 and up. the difference between the two are bearing sizes (newer being bigger) and some extra ribbing on the housing on the newer housings (this info is just off the top of my head so correct me if i'm wrong). On mine I used the date stamped on the ring gear (I assumed the axle still had the gears it was born with) which was 1977. On JP's we did the same thing as his was stamped 72. These are the years we used to order the rebuild kits which worked. There is no mistaking an 86 and up housing as the ribbing is quite substantial making the housing alittle stronger.

 

[O.D.]

Thanks Marek... I knew of the ribbing for sure and so far everywhere i look they reference the old years and new years. I guess my concern was also in regards to the fact that it's a Cab and Chassis and not a regular width 14bolt. To date it appears everything is interchangeable on these styles, but i am not 100% sure. Unfortunately it's already been re-geared to 5.13's so i can't go on that alone.

 

[Kunker]

A C&C is effectively a SRW axle with DRW hubs (I might have that backwards, it's been a while since I was researching narrow stock 14Bs), is it not? So everything should still apply the same.

 

[mucovich]

I read somewhere once that there were 3 widths for 14 bolts, 65wms, 67wms and an extra wide version that came in the 1 ton vans. I believe there should be no difference in the internals though.

 

[O.D.]

From Bil's Bible:

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]SRW (single rear wheel truck)[/FONT] [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]67.5" 3-3/8" / 0.5"Type A[/FONT]	[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Type 1[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]DRW (dual rear wheel truck)72"3.5" / 0.5"Type B[/FONT]	[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Type 2[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]C&C (cab and chasis truck)[/FONT] [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]63.5"3.5" / 0.5"Type B[/FONT]	[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Type 1[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Van70"G30 and G35Type A[/FONT]	[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Type 3[/FONT]