Yello

Kunker

Administrator
Club Member
From Bil's Bible:

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]SRW
(single rear wheel truck)[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]67.5" 3-3/8" / 0.5"Type A[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Type 1[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]DRW
(dual rear wheel truck)72"3.5" / 0.5"Type B[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Type 2[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]C&C
(cab and chasis truck)[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]63.5"3.5" / 0.5"Type B[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Type 1[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Van70"G30 and G35Type A[/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Type 3[/FONT]

Which implies that the C&C is just a SRW with the DRW hubs. I forgot about the weirdo van axles though.
 

mucovich

Till Valhalla!
Ah yes, that's the correct info there. I have the bible in my garage- i knew i read it somewhere.
 

O.D.

Well-known member
Club Member
UPDATE...


Frame has been completely void of all brackets except body mounts and the steering block.



Then built a set of stands out of wheel rollers and axle stands. Welded the stands to the rollers and used straps to hold in place. Very solid and works like a charm :)







Next on the agenda is:

- Get the rest of the 14bolt pulled apart and replace the axle bearings and seals and brakes
- Start tearing into the D60, replace the seals and brakes
- Degrease the inch or so of undercoating all over the firewall and underside of the tub.

My orders are all in by Thursday so will be making one huge trip down with a trailer to pick it all up, which will then give me tons to do over the holidays, time permitting...
 

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mucovich

Till Valhalla!
Hey Tim,

George dropped off those half doors at my place, will you be at the Christmas social? I'll bring them the next time we'll meet up.

P.S. are you planning on trussing/redoing the upper mounts on the 60? Just looking at the picture of it I am not sure I would trust the upper link brackets without gusseting them up abit more, looks like there would be a lot of leverage on those.
 
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O.D.

Well-known member
Club Member
Thanks Marek.. I actually also have my name on JP's Hydro assist too!! We've just not been able to meet up. I am hoping to make it yes. I do have to travel in January but at this stage i do not know the week / weekend it is.

RE: truss..... I wasn't planning on. Do you think it warrants it? I guess more support the better but my fear is the more i put on top of the axle housing the more chance i have of bottoming out against the hemi, considering i have to keep it sitting fairly low. At this stage i have no idea how everything will sit..

All my supplies are supposed to be in by Thursday so heading down to OGD and pick it all up. I'll then have my tires/wheels, suspension, brackets, TC, etc.... Only thing i'll be missing are the ORI's (6-8wk backorder), but i should be able to mock them up at settle height for the time being just to see how it will sit.
 

mucovich

Till Valhalla!
Cool, JP and I will both be at the social so we'll bring all of it then. I didn't truss mine for the same reasons, didn't want the clearance loss under the engine. Those tubes and housings IMO are plenty strong so I never figured i'd need to do it. I thought about it though when I ordered the ARCTEC full hydro bracket, but again I figure I won't need the truss. I am doing a drive train swap next year and I guesstimate that clearance under the motor won't be an issue - but i'm still iffy on the requirements of a full truss, plus at this point I don't want to add the extra weight.
 

O.D.

Well-known member
Club Member
Finally made the voyage to Ogdensburg with a trailer and an empty Escape!!


40X13.5X17 Maxxis Creepy Crawler





RT233 AL Beadlocks



Atlas





Long Arms



Rear Bumper





Ton of brackets









And last but not least..... Free Swag :)




I was a bit concerned about the oild all over the ATLAS box from all accounts they are shipped dry so... I have to assume it leaked onto it. I do not see any sign of damage or cracks.
 

O.D.

Well-known member
Club Member
Little update...

Was sick as a dog for almost 2 weeks so lost allot of shop time.. But as soon as i could i got some time in over the last week or so.

Put together my beadlocks.. Was surprisingly very easy. Tedious as heck but once the 130 or so bolts were torqued 4+ times, i was good to go :)






Then started working on the front suspension.. Had to notch the HEMI skid plate to setup the front CA's. Still need to center it all and tighten down the bolts but so far it looks good:








Lined up the motor mounts and welded them in:



Then started tackling the inch or so of undercoating that covers the firewall...:









Questions for the edumacated!!!


- I was looking at the alignment for the shock mounts for the fronts.. Currently there are axle shock mounts setup on the backside of the axle tubes, which i find when i set the axle in place, is not well centered on the upward arch of the frame.. Does anyone see this as a concern? It'll imply that the strut will sit at an angle towards the front at the top. Alternatively, i am thinking of welding on some tabs directly on that top plate in the pic (Where the coil spring mounts were), which will set the struts vertical to the top mount, once i weld them both in.....






Question:

- Where's the best place locally to price out new brakes? I THINK i have 1/2 ton chevy calipers for the rears and fronts.. Can anyone confirm this?






I also need 14 bolt lug bolts and lug nuts for both a 14 bolt and a snowfighter D60. Does anyone by chance have part numbers for these? I have been having a hard time finding these as well with certainty...
 

aweber

This thread is :rainbow:
Staff member
Club Member
They look like the same brakes as mine, 1/2 ton. Call Keith. Same with the Studs - There are two Dorman part numbers for the studs in Billavista's 14 Bolt Bible. Get the longer ones. Not cheap though, I remember paying a bunch for the new studs on mine.
 

O.D.

Well-known member
Club Member
Is it safe to re-use the studs? I hammered the shit out of them on one side getting them out to pull the rotors. If they are "Re-useable", I will if they are expensive and it's dooable. That's insane to think you have to replace the studs every time you replace the rotors...

Thanks
 

mucovich

Till Valhalla!
I paid almost 5 bucks a stud when I got mine, definitely not cheap but if the ones on there now are not in good shape I would change them. If it was me I would most likely weld new tabs to the top of the arm brackets, at least whatever makes for the best geometry through the full cycle of the suspension.
 

dwcjwerfner

Well-known member
Club Member
Looking good! You don't have to replace the studs if you press them out and not "hammer the shit out of them". I was lucky and had Dirk in the garage when I did my first D44 as I think he had learned the hard way years before.
 

Impact

Well-known member
Can you throw a tire/rim on a scale and get us some numbers Tim? I wonder how much less these weigh over my wheel combo...
 
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