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Yello
- Thread starter O.D.
- Start date
Been looking at the front suspension and there's something off. I cannot get it to center or sit "Correctly" so to speak. So this morning i decided to take the arms off and start getting some measurements.
- Frame CA brackets are set at 3.625" from the front most skid plate bolt at center on both sides as per specs.
- Both CA's are set at 36" eyelet to eyelet as per specs.
- From my measurements, the axle side CA brackets are at the same distance from rotors so they do seem centered on the axle.
Now, as i looked at it a bit more with just the CA's bolted to the axle brackets, the PS arm sits inwards moreseo than the DS. So i tried to get some angles on the brackets and sure enough there's a 5 degree difference from one side to the other. Basically the PS is at 40 degrees to the centre and the DS is at 45 degrees.
So, for one i wonder how the fakk did the previous owner accommodate this? And 2, what options do i have on this? Would shortening an arm to accommodate this cause other issues? Or, am i looking at cutting it all out and starting from scratch?
Fakkkk.....
- Frame CA brackets are set at 3.625" from the front most skid plate bolt at center on both sides as per specs.
- Both CA's are set at 36" eyelet to eyelet as per specs.
- From my measurements, the axle side CA brackets are at the same distance from rotors so they do seem centered on the axle.
Now, as i looked at it a bit more with just the CA's bolted to the axle brackets, the PS arm sits inwards moreseo than the DS. So i tried to get some angles on the brackets and sure enough there's a 5 degree difference from one side to the other. Basically the PS is at 40 degrees to the centre and the DS is at 45 degrees.
So, for one i wonder how the fakk did the previous owner accommodate this? And 2, what options do i have on this? Would shortening an arm to accommodate this cause other issues? Or, am i looking at cutting it all out and starting from scratch?
Fakkkk.....
Oh, i think you are probably right. I just don't understand how the dude whom i bought these off could have been driving it like that (Unless it was just a trail rig)... I just pray to god this is not indicative of the rest of his handywork on the axles.....
And i have no weights or beads in them.. So it could be a bit more.... my weight i gave you was based on the spec weights from the 'net. So i may be off but they were shipping weights so it should be accurate.
Aren't yours 42" PBR's?
And i have no weights or beads in them.. So it could be a bit more.... my weight i gave you was based on the spec weights from the 'net. So i may be off but they were shipping weights so it should be accurate.
Aren't yours 42" PBR's?
Mlorint
Well-known member
tighten the upper link on the side you want it to move to and loosen the other side. They are what control the side to side. You really should have a track bar with that style in my opinion. You will always have steering issues without a track bar unless going full hydro with that kind of setup.
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Is a track bar not an absolute necessity with a radius arm setup? I think the concern is that the arms are on a different angle with the axle centered, and it would seem that the only solution would be to move the axle mounts, no?
EDIT: in looking at the pics and how high the upper mounts are, wait until the engine is in place before moving anything. You may end up redoing any work that you've done now to avoid clearance issues with the big Hemi, and it might be why the PO placed the brackets where they are - not optimal, but where they will physically fit.
EDIT: in looking at the pics and how high the upper mounts are, wait until the engine is in place before moving anything. You may end up redoing any work that you've done now to avoid clearance issues with the big Hemi, and it might be why the PO placed the brackets where they are - not optimal, but where they will physically fit.
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Track bar is a necessity yes with radius arms. I don't see how adjusting the upper arms will do anything but tilt the pinion? I actually do not think you can adjust one side one way and the other side the opposite way as that would create a twisting motion on the axle itself.
The PO did not have a HEMI. It was a stocker 4.0 XJ. Based on other builds i have read up on with a HEMI, they did not have clearance issues with radius arms (In fact in one read it was a 3-link that caused clearance issues due to exhaust location). The LCA mounts are in the right location i think, it's the angles that are off. Perhaps a trackbar would bring it back inline but i would think that would create an awful lot of extra tension...
I think i am just going to cut the bracketry all out and start fresh on the LCA mounts..
Been busy!!!
On the D60.. I just decided to cut the brackets off. Ordered some replacements from TMR and got that in place. Man those existing brackets were a P I T A to get off:
Also finally got the 14 bolt rebuilt and put back together. Still missing a caliper (Gotta pick it up) and i want to add a pinion guard. But other than that, all the bearings, races and seals are good to go.
Got pretty much all of the grease and undercoating removed from the underside of the tub:
Then started mocking up the rear.. Since the tub wasn't on, i lay the stretch corners on the tub, found the center, then related that to the body mount at the back. Then transposed that to the frame for reference on where the center would be with a 4" stretch.
I started doubting myself a bit too much though and after a while i decided that i'd be better off just putting the tub back on for mock up. I would have needed to anyways for the next step of putting the motor in so....
I had so much problems though removing it with the cage and windshield on that i decided to first remove these.
Before putting the tub back on, i decided to also put the stretch tank in just in case there are issues with clearance on the 14bolt. Even though it didn't call for it, i decided to notch the rear crossmember as the tank was hitting this part when i had it tightened up. The tank has different mounting and i had to sleeve a hole through the frame rail. Not a big deal however I hope the fakk it does not interfere with the rear shock towers....:
Then i dropped the tub onto the frame. With the cage/windshield off, it was much easier than the removal
Once on, i bolted up / clamped on the body armor:
Next steps are:
- Get the rear panels properly lined up and then trim the sheet metal!!
- Once that's done, i'll then setup the rear suspension.
- From what i can see, i will have to trim the front of the rear crossmember to clear the 14Bolt
- Hoping that within the next few weeks, i should have my ORI's and can then mock them up.
- Then drop the motor in and see what fits!!
From what i have read, one needs a 1" body lift to clear the ATLAS. Not a necessity but a suggestion. I really don't want to run a body lift, mainly because that very well will push me over my threshold on height to get in/out of the garage!!!
On the D60.. I just decided to cut the brackets off. Ordered some replacements from TMR and got that in place. Man those existing brackets were a P I T A to get off:
Also finally got the 14 bolt rebuilt and put back together. Still missing a caliper (Gotta pick it up) and i want to add a pinion guard. But other than that, all the bearings, races and seals are good to go.
Got pretty much all of the grease and undercoating removed from the underside of the tub:
Then started mocking up the rear.. Since the tub wasn't on, i lay the stretch corners on the tub, found the center, then related that to the body mount at the back. Then transposed that to the frame for reference on where the center would be with a 4" stretch.
I started doubting myself a bit too much though and after a while i decided that i'd be better off just putting the tub back on for mock up. I would have needed to anyways for the next step of putting the motor in so....
I had so much problems though removing it with the cage and windshield on that i decided to first remove these.
Before putting the tub back on, i decided to also put the stretch tank in just in case there are issues with clearance on the 14bolt. Even though it didn't call for it, i decided to notch the rear crossmember as the tank was hitting this part when i had it tightened up. The tank has different mounting and i had to sleeve a hole through the frame rail. Not a big deal however I hope the fakk it does not interfere with the rear shock towers....:
Then i dropped the tub onto the frame. With the cage/windshield off, it was much easier than the removal
Once on, i bolted up / clamped on the body armor:
Next steps are:
- Get the rear panels properly lined up and then trim the sheet metal!!
- Once that's done, i'll then setup the rear suspension.
- From what i can see, i will have to trim the front of the rear crossmember to clear the 14Bolt
- Hoping that within the next few weeks, i should have my ORI's and can then mock them up.
- Then drop the motor in and see what fits!!
From what i have read, one needs a 1" body lift to clear the ATLAS. Not a necessity but a suggestion. I really don't want to run a body lift, mainly because that very well will push me over my threshold on height to get in/out of the garage!!!
Looking good!
Got a plan for welding to the cast here?
Two schools of thought:
1 - There is a special nickle rod you can buy to use an arc to do it.
2 - Use a regular mig, low and slow - keep the heat really under control, not letting it heat up too much and then let it cool off slowly after. If you heat it up too much or cool it off too quick, it will just crack.
#2 is what I did, no issues so far. Looking good BTW!
Two schools of thought:
1 - There is a special nickle rod you can buy to use an arc to do it.
2 - Use a regular mig, low and slow - keep the heat really under control, not letting it heat up too much and then let it cool off slowly after. If you heat it up too much or cool it off too quick, it will just crack.
#2 is what I did, no issues so far. Looking good BTW!
Got a plan for welding to the cast here?
Two schools of thought:
1 - There is a special nickle rod you can buy to use an arc to do it.
2 - Use a regular mig, low and slow - keep the heat really under control, not letting it heat up too much and then let it cool off slowly after. If you heat it up too much or cool it off too quick, it will just crack.
#2 is what I did, no issues so far. Looking good BTW!
i think i might get a buddy to come over with his portable stuff and do the final welds.. He does it by trade and has all the right equipment. I don't have enough confidence in my welding to ensure good penetration when confronted with 360+ hp and 40" tires....
K
KBjeep
Guest
Just got back from Tim's place. It is looking low and mean. Lovin it bud keep up the great work.
Couple of reasons:
- I wanted something no larger than 40" and fairly narrow.
- While i liked the MTR Kevlars that i had previously and were available in a 40" flavour, i wanted something a bit more aggressive
- I found that all too often while out on the trail, my sidewalls were severly marred (And i also had a few nice gashes as well). I wanted something that had very strong sidewalls.. These had great reviews in that aspect.
- I just found that they looked awesome
In all honesty, if the PBR's came in a 13.5" width, i would have bought them... But they weren't
Cheers,
- I wanted something no larger than 40" and fairly narrow.
- While i liked the MTR Kevlars that i had previously and were available in a 40" flavour, i wanted something a bit more aggressive
- I found that all too often while out on the trail, my sidewalls were severly marred (And i also had a few nice gashes as well). I wanted something that had very strong sidewalls.. These had great reviews in that aspect.
- I just found that they looked awesome
In all honesty, if the PBR's came in a 13.5" width, i would have bought them... But they weren't
Cheers,