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Build Project Liberty - Trail/Overland Jeep Build
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Do you mean, a foot shorter and mount it beside the hood (above the wheel), or a foot shorter and keep it where it is...?
Either/or, it needs to just poke above. Granted, having it sitting higher gives better range but it also makes it a better target for branches and the like which can and will break the antenna. Normally for offroading your needed range is usually only a short distance away so range isn't as important. You have to keep that in mind as most instructions are geared toward highway situations.
OK, I'll keep it for now, as I don't do a lot of trail driving on super close-quarters trails. It's within my forward sightline and it's on a spring anyhow.
The main intent was for highway and longer range comms in case of being out of cell range. Or...in case of the zombie apocalypse.
The main intent was for highway and longer range comms in case of being out of cell range. Or...in case of the zombie apocalypse.
Anyone have suggestions for sourcing a body panel grommet (for cb cable)?
Don't think I'm going to make it to SF this year, although I had hoped to. I've got a clicking front axle to deal with and I just don't have time for it in the next couple weeks.
Don't think I'm going to make it to SF this year, although I had hoped to. I've got a clicking front axle to deal with and I just don't have time for it in the next couple weeks.
No reason to stay home. Ask around for a passenger seat, come enjoy the "Community fire & bull shit session" and buy some tickets for the raffle :beer:
haha! I do like me some story telling. Mayyyyyyybe.
Finally wired/tunes the CB. SWR 1.2 across all 40 channels. Seems to pick up local stuff quite easily, so should be a great tool on trail rides.
Also, found a bad u-joint - first time replacing one...was a bit of a PITA as I don't think it had ever been changed. A few choice words and a few beers later, she's moving smoothly again. Put in a Moog 290? 390? 'super strength' with the mini-grease nipple. Don't really know if it's any stronger than stock as I've heard the sealed ones are usually stronger. But for a greasable one, it's probably pretty good for me. I'm not crazy on the go-pedal.
Also, found a bad u-joint - first time replacing one...was a bit of a PITA as I don't think it had ever been changed. A few choice words and a few beers later, she's moving smoothly again. Put in a Moog 290? 390? 'super strength' with the mini-grease nipple. Don't really know if it's any stronger than stock as I've heard the sealed ones are usually stronger. But for a greasable one, it's probably pretty good for me. I'm not crazy on the go-pedal.
Haha I don't mind the challenge. Gotta learn somehow, rather it's in the garage than on the trail.
Yeah I know about Spicer being better, but I needed it on the road.
Yeah I know about Spicer being better, but I needed it on the road.
I'm a quarter-block walk from the Merivale Partsource, so I defaulted to what they had in stock.
I'll swap in Spicers into both ends 'later' i.e. after the bathroom reno marathon is done lol
I'll swap in Spicers into both ends 'later' i.e. after the bathroom reno marathon is done lol
Yeah, I changed a u-joint once. Then found out it is a lot less of a pain and pretty cheap to drop off at a driveshaft shop and let them do it.
Builds his own axles but doesn't want to change a u-joint? WTF?
Interesting. It was actually a bit of a selling point for the house lol
hahaha
Need to replace my muffler...it has that putt putt putt sound from pinholes all over. Is there a requirement for the tailpipe to exit the structure at a certain point? e.g. before rear axle not allowed etc
Last I heard, it was "after of the cab". We had our old Dodge dump right after the cab under the box (too cheap to buy more pipe). That said, if dumping out the side before the rear axle works, go for it.
Thanks Kunker, was thinking of an underbody dump, not out the side. It would get crushed there.
I'll have to incorporate the stock tailpipe with an extension then.