|
|
|
Repair and Replace 90's YJ
- Thread starter dougiet
- Start date
dougiet
Well-known member
With these 'All Country' tires, I will have to bring my game!
dougiet
Well-known member
I would and did contemplate doing the switch as you described if it was not for Jiffy Lube for $60.00.
That is the right gear to have when offroading!
dougiet
Well-known member
Are these brakes from a YJ?
Getting ready to install E-brakes. I am watching a lot of youtube videos before I start. The drums are 10 inches yet I am not able to determine what car these drum brakes are from.
Yes, the axle is a dana 35 but the shoes and hardware are not from jeep for the wrangler or xj when compared to youtube vids.
The springs and positioning of them, the shoes have holes on the side, and the spring to the adjuster assembly looks weird.
I could be wrong, but I don't know from watching videos.
Getting ready to install E-brakes. I am watching a lot of youtube videos before I start. The drums are 10 inches yet I am not able to determine what car these drum brakes are from.
Yes, the axle is a dana 35 but the shoes and hardware are not from jeep for the wrangler or xj when compared to youtube vids.
The springs and positioning of them, the shoes have holes on the side, and the spring to the adjuster assembly looks weird.
I could be wrong, but I don't know from watching videos.
Last edited:
+1 - do one side at a time so you can reference back, and have at it.
dougiet
Well-known member
Thanks for your reply.
The brake system is from a YJ 1987 89 non-C - clip axle. Also installed new drag and tie rod.
Now installing brake lever and strut with spring. The E brake system is from Control Cables out of Orange County California.
LINK ...Control Cables
The brake system is from a YJ 1987 89 non-C - clip axle. Also installed new drag and tie rod.
Now installing brake lever and strut with spring. The E brake system is from Control Cables out of Orange County California.
LINK ...Control Cables
Attachments
-
front drivers pic.jpg
dougiet
Well-known member
The e- Brake cables are plugged into the backing plate and the drums brakes are done.
Now starting to install the E- Brake cable set up from Control Cables.
Have a look.
The adjustment nut and the brake cables need to be at full travel when the hand brake is pulled.
The drum brake cables have long cables which may require the equalizer plate to be cut in half and spread out further apart to get the most adjustment travel.
The hand brake lever is in the down position if you get the idea. the drum cables are not plugged into the bracket which makes for less adjustment.
Now starting to install the E- Brake cable set up from Control Cables.
Have a look.
The adjustment nut and the brake cables need to be at full travel when the hand brake is pulled.
The drum brake cables have long cables which may require the equalizer plate to be cut in half and spread out further apart to get the most adjustment travel.
The hand brake lever is in the down position if you get the idea. the drum cables are not plugged into the bracket which makes for less adjustment.
dougiet
Well-known member
3 fuel pumps have been replaced because of diaphragm failure in 2 months!
Why are the diaphragms failing, is it with the installation?
It can only go in the right way? any advice? what can I do to fix this?
2 Delphi's and a Cartier all out the weep hole. Can still drive with the
pump leaking. 3 pumps in a row, my nerves are shattered.
3 mechanical fuel pumps in 2 months on a YJ with no plates, the failures happen when driven @ 3 miles.
My engine oil has to go too. !@#%^&
I had purchased some kinda odd 15w40 oil for import diesel engines, could the oil weaken the diaphragm?
There is no spacer required between the pump and block eh?
Update: the oil was Castrol GTX Diesel 15 40. Full Syn for Heavy Duty Diesel. Has the formula to remove sludge, there is no oil sludge in the engine.
Cam wear on the Delphi levers was normal. The Cartier was a heavier spring that showed cam bite on the lever.
2nd Update
The pump on the Jeep when purchased was a Delphi and it was working with the 15 40 diesel oil, I replaced it for under $50.00 as a precaution. I did try to reinstall the working pump that was on the jeep and it did not work after a month on the shelf. The pump failures are when the motor is driving at neighborhood speeds and all failed in the past 2 months. Testing the jeep after installs of various new parts the gas starts out the weep hole on all 3 failed pumps.
Benson's replaced the 2 Delphis the next day and CT is replacing the Cartier the next day after pumps failed.
I am calling friends in Toronto and their mechanical fuel pumps are being replaced within mere months after new installs.
Yes, the common event is all pumps are failing at the same duration of operation of garage idle and neighborhood street testing of @ 3 k's
honestly, you can run a stopwatch, that's how common it is.
The jeep goes in 2 weeks for a DOT safety inspection.
I am draining the oil now and will not use diesel 15 40 but will go with gas 10w30.
The fuel tank on the jeep has been cleaned out last year as seen in my build thread.
Why are the diaphragms failing, is it with the installation?
It can only go in the right way? any advice? what can I do to fix this?
2 Delphi's and a Cartier all out the weep hole. Can still drive with the
pump leaking. 3 pumps in a row, my nerves are shattered.
3 mechanical fuel pumps in 2 months on a YJ with no plates, the failures happen when driven @ 3 miles.
My engine oil has to go too. !@#%^&
I had purchased some kinda odd 15w40 oil for import diesel engines, could the oil weaken the diaphragm?
There is no spacer required between the pump and block eh?
Update: the oil was Castrol GTX Diesel 15 40. Full Syn for Heavy Duty Diesel. Has the formula to remove sludge, there is no oil sludge in the engine.
Cam wear on the Delphi levers was normal. The Cartier was a heavier spring that showed cam bite on the lever.
2nd Update
The pump on the Jeep when purchased was a Delphi and it was working with the 15 40 diesel oil, I replaced it for under $50.00 as a precaution. I did try to reinstall the working pump that was on the jeep and it did not work after a month on the shelf. The pump failures are when the motor is driving at neighborhood speeds and all failed in the past 2 months. Testing the jeep after installs of various new parts the gas starts out the weep hole on all 3 failed pumps.
Benson's replaced the 2 Delphis the next day and CT is replacing the Cartier the next day after pumps failed.
I am calling friends in Toronto and their mechanical fuel pumps are being replaced within mere months after new installs.
Yes, the common event is all pumps are failing at the same duration of operation of garage idle and neighborhood street testing of @ 3 k's
honestly, you can run a stopwatch, that's how common it is.
The jeep goes in 2 weeks for a DOT safety inspection.
I am draining the oil now and will not use diesel 15 40 but will go with gas 10w30.
The fuel tank on the jeep has been cleaned out last year as seen in my build thread.
Air filter - is that large enough? I have no clue what a 4.2 needs for air intake, and no clue what that filter is rated for.
Diesel oil - it's actually probably better for your flat tappet cam than the gas crap you are moving to. I run Rotella in pretty much everything without issue, and have for years.
Diesel oil - it's actually probably better for your flat tappet cam than the gas crap you are moving to. I run Rotella in pretty much everything without issue, and have for years.
