Nope, there is maybe a 1/4" between the two. Think as a temporary workaround, i could do a 1310/1350 ujoint witha a 1310 flange. This gives me some time this year to actually wheel it. I could then look at doing a different bracket
|
|
|
231/Dana 300 Doubler Build
- Thread starter 2Greys
- Start date
Nope, there is maybe a 1/4" between the two. Think as a temporary workaround, i could do a 1310/1350 ujoint witha a 1310 flange. This gives me some time this year to actually wheel it. I could then look at doing a different bracket
Said fuck it and spent the afternoon building a bracket out of 1/4" steel that uses the bolts that holds the rear output on. That was a pain.
Cut off the TMR support ring and welded it on and painted it (btw Krylon now has a rattle can that has both primer and colour in it and dries stupid fast).
Put on new bracket and drive shaft which was a serious pain as I had to pull the flange off and put the bolts in from behind and tighten up using a wrench. Needless to say the measurement used for torque was how much it took to lift me off the ground.
Plan for tomorrow is
- refill the Dana 300 which should be around 1.5 liters as any more it starts hitting the seal on the output and will leak a bit.
- adjust rear pinion angle (I think it actually needs to go down a degree)
- don't think front needs to change much if at all.
- Zip tie a bunch of stuff and loom the speed sensor
- maybe drive it.
I see a quick spin through carp in my near future
Want to work up to any of the others
Cut off the TMR support ring and welded it on and painted it (btw Krylon now has a rattle can that has both primer and colour in it and dries stupid fast).
Put on new bracket and drive shaft which was a serious pain as I had to pull the flange off and put the bolts in from behind and tighten up using a wrench. Needless to say the measurement used for torque was how much it took to lift me off the ground.
Plan for tomorrow is
- refill the Dana 300 which should be around 1.5 liters as any more it starts hitting the seal on the output and will leak a bit.
- adjust rear pinion angle (I think it actually needs to go down a degree)
- don't think front needs to change much if at all.
- Zip tie a bunch of stuff and loom the speed sensor
- maybe drive it.
I see a quick spin through carp in my near future
Want to work up to any of the others
Thanks, wish it would have been done earlier in the summer
Now we see if I screwed it up
Now we see if I screwed it up
That's the spirit - with my track record, I know I would have typed "Now to see WHAT I screwed up".
Nice to see it finished, and I hope it performs as well as you hoped.
Two things that I need to keep an eye on:
1. The doubler shifter is stiff and I suspect that I can probably finangle a better line for the cable and also cutting down the detent spring may make it easier for it to come out of gear.
2. Since the front driveshaft needed to be lengthened I need to confirm that it doesn't hit the skid on full droop.
I also don't think I need to adjust the caster at all since the change in drive shaft length. I think it should be ok.
1. The doubler shifter is stiff and I suspect that I can probably finangle a better line for the cable and also cutting down the detent spring may make it easier for it to come out of gear.
2. Since the front driveshaft needed to be lengthened I need to confirm that it doesn't hit the skid on full droop.
I also don't think I need to adjust the caster at all since the change in drive shaft length. I think it should be ok.
Filled up the rear case and checked the rear pinion angle and suprisingly (not really as I figured it would be pretty close) the angle was perfect. Took it for a spin around the block and things seem pretty good shifting. It isn't as smooth going from neutral to hi as the 231 was but I had read gear based cases weren't.Don't get me wrong it was fine just a bit more noticable.
Also realized the shift knob for the 231 is backwards. I push forward for low and pull back for hi. Thought it was the other way for some reason. So I may rotate it so it says H7 instead (which technically is right since when it is in Lo I will be in 7s for gearing)
Carp run early tomorrow evening anyone?
Also realized the shift knob for the 231 is backwards. I push forward for low and pull back for hi. Thought it was the other way for some reason. So I may rotate it so it says H7 instead (which technically is right since when it is in Lo I will be in 7s for gearing)
Carp run early tomorrow evening anyone?
Drove it to work and it seems ok. The only issue is that there is a bit of a leak from the rear output which appears to be coming between the flange and the seal. When I pulled the flange to put the bolts in it looked fine but it did look too small like the seal wasn't touching the flange. Talked to Novak and they said it may be that the rear seal got nicked at some point which is possible since it was sitting in my garage for almost 6 months before being mounted.
Last edited:
Thanks, i think i figured it out. I had torqued the rear to 120ftlbs which the stock is. When i pulled off the driveshaft there was a smidge of play. i torqued it down to 130 and no play. filled it to half way which is about 1.5-2 litre and drove it for about 10 minutes. No leak. Emailed Novak to confirm what the torques is supposed to be.
Went out with Matt and Ryan to Gorge and my god the gearing makes a huge difference!
However the 231 is leaking so I need to pull it all out and reseal. WHen I bolted it all together it seemed like there was a spot where it was a small bit wider between the case and the backing plate. I figured the RTV should keep it plugged but obviously it didn't. It isn't a big leak but it is a leak nevertheless.
Also I do need to adjust the caster a smidge.
I am also going to rearrange the shifters and have it straight, angled, angled with the angled ones going to passenger side. I think it will work and give my right knee a little more room and I think it won't interfere with the shifter. Otherwise I think I can shorten the shaft a tad if necessary, it shifts pretty easy.
It also popped out a couple times not while wheeling but higher speeds to and from the trail. Note to self to get the stiffer detent springs.
However the 231 is leaking so I need to pull it all out and reseal. WHen I bolted it all together it seemed like there was a spot where it was a small bit wider between the case and the backing plate. I figured the RTV should keep it plugged but obviously it didn't. It isn't a big leak but it is a leak nevertheless.
Also I do need to adjust the caster a smidge.
I am also going to rearrange the shifters and have it straight, angled, angled with the angled ones going to passenger side. I think it will work and give my right knee a little more room and I think it won't interfere with the shifter. Otherwise I think I can shorten the shaft a tad if necessary, it shifts pretty easy.
It also popped out a couple times not while wheeling but higher speeds to and from the trail. Note to self to get the stiffer detent springs.
Might be that it needs more adjustment. It never dropped out in low just high, but I have read the 300's when you go double shifter can pop out but that was on the intertubes and we know how reliable that is. This is what I was talking about: http://www.jbconversions.com/products/dana300/ballspring.php
That said, it won't be until next year if I do it.
Side note anyone notice that when typing in the forum the cursor pops up to the top midsentence? Very weird. Happens on my computer and on my tablet.