4:1?

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2Greys

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You are right:
After test setting the tub, it was obvious i was going to need a BL.. Installed the 1" BL and STILL could not clear the ATLAS. So, in a moment of stupor i cut into the tub floor!

I posted on his thread to see what he has for a skid. That, the transmission and transmission mount may make the Atlas sit more proud. Haven't seen a price yet though on the Hero case other than a $500 down.
 
chunkytrunks

chunkytrunks

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Tcase gears are well worth the upgrade in my opinion. I would never go back

Having the restriction of the 231 kit would suck

An atlas would be bad ass but over kill. But then again when you go buggy you can just transfer it over ;)

D300 will be more than enough for you but I agree one upgraded cost is getting up there.

What's wrong with the 241? Just cost?

I also really like the 231/300 doubler. That was my plan when I bought the 300 but obviously didn't need it once I got the rubi.

There are so many times when I wish I could have front digs and I think if done smartly and with the chromo's up front you will be just fine.
 
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2Greys

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The issue with the 241 is mostly availability/cost. Hard to come by where they aren't asking for your first born. That plus the idea of being able to do front digs makes me think if I should just go with a 300 or Atlas.
I am wondering if there is going to be people moving to the Hero and selling their Atlas2 off (there will probably be a few but not likely and not likely in the config I need :)

As mentioned above the big issue with the 231/300 is the length. The rear drive shaft is so short an inch can make a huge difference on a Cherokee not as much but the TJ I think it could.

I think the 300 would be the least amount of pain and seems reasonably affordable (unless I am missing something it's when you go 4:1 and do the doubler when it gets to the Atlas prices.)
Going pessimistic on prices
~$300 for Dana 300
~$575 4:1 gears (JB LoMax)
Clocking ring ~$160
~$ Twin Stick ~200-400 (since I have a TT I may have to look at the cable versions which are pricier)

~$1500 It isn't as close to the atlas as doubling unless I am missing something..
I also found out I would definitely have to get my drive shafts changed with the 300. The rear needs to be about 5" longer and front 3" shorter.
I also could sell my 231 to someone looking to do a SYE to recoup some of the cost which I can't do with a doubler.
 
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2Greys

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dwcjwerfner said:
A 231/300 doubler is almost an inch shorter than a stock 231
Click to expand...

And an inch longer than a 231 with an SYE which I have (with the SS SYE I think I read the doubler is almost 3" longer) and right now I have about 1/4" of clearance between my rear diff and gas tank at full stuff.

I am probably being overly paranoid on this but this is early and I need to get all of the facts.If I can find somebody who did the doubler on a TJ without increasing their driveline, I may go that way.
 
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chunkytrunks

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Ahh it must be when you start to add on upgraded output shafts is when the d300 gets close to atlas prices.

Front digs would deffinetly be awesome.

On a tj I fully agree that rear ds is an issue but how are the reviews? Has anyone done the double and had issue's?

Looks like to me bang for the buck is the D300

Now you just have to find one which is pretty easy.
 
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2Greys

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I posted on JeepForum since if anyone has done it without lengthening the wheelbase, there may be someone there. Brief searches on Pirate haven't found one without the other.

So the question is what warrants needing the upgraded shafts? If I am nowhere near (nor with 35's as that is in the future I am sure) then the 300 is probably ideal. If I am remotely near then I think Atlas. I would prefer the former so I can build it up over winter.
 
mucovich

mucovich

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I think you would be ok with the stock 300 shafts and the 35's, the only time I've seen problems is with 40 plus inch tires.
 
chunkytrunks

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Yeah I'm sure you will be just fine. The d300 is a strong case. And more than enough for you.
 
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So now it is a question of Dana 300 or doubler. I know where Dwayne sits on this ;)
 
aweber

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The 300 will be fine on stock inputs/outputs for your Power/Tire size. Mine is stock ;) Broke the front output once but still not sure if that was it's fault or mine - leaning towards mine :beer:
 
Kunker

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Talk to anyone who has run a doubler - I know in my chat with Adrian, he considered it one of the "must have's" on his buggy. Dwayne is in the same camp. Who else has run a doubler, and have any of them gone back to just a 2 speed t-case?

For cost, once you add the RAC and 32-spline outputs, then you're damn near the Atlas pricing. I was under the impression, though, that you could twin stick the D300 for cheap without any sort of kit. Talk to Andrew about it next time you see him.

EDIT. To follow up on Adrian's post - most breakage I've seen has been the u-joint becoming bound, or bottoming out and putting force on the t-case. As long as you have u-joint clearance throughout the suspension travel, and your driveshaft has enough slip, you shouldn't ever have a problem.
 
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mucovich

mucovich

Till Valhalla!
x2, doubler is ideal - as much as I love my 2 speed ATLAS I often wish I had a 4 speed - or one of those 3 speed hero cases!
 
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The cost in the 300 is the accumulation of everything. I think with me I will need to go cable shifted due to the tuck which adds an extra $200. I had talked briefly with Andrew and he was with the opinion of going with the 300 over the atlas just based on the size of the 4:1 gears.

Don't get me wrong, if it comes out that if shortening the rear drive shaft makes no difference (at this point just looking for confirmation) then yeah I will be all up into that shit :)
 
Baja

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Another vote for the 300.

No need for the upgraded outputs at this time. I am still on the stock ones and I am hard on it. As for cost I have 160 flip ring and 200 for the stock case.
4 to 1 is on my list but to be honest it just isn't a priority. There has yet to be an obstical where I said if I had lower gearing I could have made it. That being said it usually means that some wheelspin and momentum are need but that's the fun part.

Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk
 
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