4:1?

Baja

Baja

Well-known member
I don't think you would have any problems fitting a doubler in there. The driveshaft is what it is but because it is fixed yoked and a double cardigan it shouldn't be a problem.

What is your plan for this rig?

Daily/occasional wheeler- leave stock

Well built reliable trial rig -stock 300 or with 4 to 1.

An obstical killer - doubler


Some people will probably disagree with me but that is just my thoughts and experience.



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2

2Greys

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I would say somewhere in the middle. I am starting to think Dana 300 with 4:1 in it may be what I would want. Who knows if things change I could always double it later.
 
Baja

Baja

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That's a good way to think. Can always put a doubler in front of a 300 later.

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2

2Greys

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So I measured my drive shaft from center the inside u-joint in the double cardan to the axle side yoke and it measured to 12.5". The longer portion of the shaft was 8.5". So with the doubler I may have to shorten by a little bit less than an inch. Have to see how much play I have on the shaft.
 
2

2Greys

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Here is what I am thinking.

Doubler/Dana 300 is 1" longer than the SYE I have (btw is that the short or long version), however Novak makes the 300RX which is the 32 spline ultra-short tailhousing. It is almost 2" shorter than the long version. Also from some things that I have read when you get into the 4:1 and more that is where you start having issues with the output shafts.
So
Pros:
1" shorter than what I have now which is a good thing (and I think I don't need to lengthen my drive shaft)
Stronger than stock
Cons:
$600 ouch
Need to buy a new speed sensor to work with it as it no longer uses mechanical method
 
bradleyfitz

bradleyfitz

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I have the Novak super short sye. It should come with an electronic sensor (or at least it used to). I think mine was teraflex/Novak.
 
2

2Greys

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Here's what I am thinking
- run the Dana 300 for a bit with 4:1. If I can get it done this season I might
- before next season look into adding the doubler.

The hurdles seem to be the following:
- adding crossmember for supporting the rear of the doubler. As Tim mentioned it isn't that big of a deal for the brake line. The issue will be the vent line and the gas line. The first issue is bending them without pinching them. The second is, he has the luxury of doing a frame off so putting the mounts on is trivial for him. For me it may be doing some slant drilling and widening the holes using a 90* dremel attachment (or removing the body bolts and hoping to god they haven't rustwelded since I put the body lift on 5 years ago. I did anti-seize them then so maybe I got lucky.
- I will probably have to use cable shifters as my tummy tuck is almost completely flat. Northwest Fab has some nice ones. The catch is I lose the center console as I would probably have to fabricate a box for the shifters to mount to. I could always look at making my own console using the Tuffy Insert I have and some steel I have laying around. I think with the cable shifters as well with the addition of the doubler I may not need to get new cables.
- also I have read that the 32 spline output becomes more of a requirement when going 4:1. I could add it and if it breaks look at one of the shorter HD 32 spline outputs to replace it in preparation for the doubler.

Things to think about (but comments always welcomed)...
 
O

O.D.

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U could also use PL and glue the line brackets to the top of the frame rail. I had done that on the other tj build. It wont come off once set. Then u do not have to drill angle holes.


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Kunker

Kunker

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2Greys said:
...
- also I have read that the 32 spline output becomes more of a requirement when going 4:1. I could add it and if it breaks look at one of the shorter HD 32 spline outputs to replace it in preparation for the doubler.
Click to expand...

This is where you lose me - how is a 4:1 with the 4.0 so much worse than Adrian with a Toy case in front and 300+hp? Or Dwayne with the same 4.0 output but again a doubler in front of it? Should they not be seeing the same stress on the output, with even more on the input?
 
2

2Greys

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Dunno, remember this is the intertubes. One of the benefits of doing the Novak 32 spline output is it is about an inch shorter than the stock. This would put the rear of the 300 at exactly the same spot it is now if I do a doubler (231 and Dana 300 doubler = 231+SYE + 1").
 
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2

2Greys

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O.D. said:
U could also use PL and glue the line brackets to the top of the frame rail. I had done that on the other tj build. It wont come off once set. Then u do not have to drill angle holes.


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Click to expand...
That is a definite option
 
2

2Greys

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Hmmm, Stak Replace a Case...
Deals with flipping and may also keep my overall length with a doubler within what I have right now just with the 231.
Pricey option though.
 
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