My "Big Baby" Axle Swap thread

[2Greys]

So after talking to Dwayne what I did was put a 36mm socket and knock the baffle and inner race out. It mangled the baffle up a bit. The concern I have is I believe there is a spare baffle in the install kit but I doubt it would take the same abuse. Need to think about how to proceed. I guess I could use the old baffle for setting pinion depth but I am concerned that it may be affecting the depth by a thou or two

From what it looks like going from inside out it is:

pinion
Slinger
Bearing
inner Race
Shims (these I believe are what set the pinion depth)
Baffle
spacer I believe
Outer Race
Shims
Bearing
Thrust Washer
Seal
Pinion Washer
Pinion nut

 

[dwcjwerfner]

Once you change the race, so long as there are no shims under there and you are just shimming on the pinion itself you don't have to take the baffle out again I do not believe so install the new baffle and race and set up your gears. :beer:

 

[2Greys]

Cool I thought that might be a possibility but wasn't sure if that was ok. I mean ultimately it's where the pinion head goes.
So how were the boys?

 

[2Greys]

Someone on jeepforum suggested making practice races as well by grinding out the OD (I don't think they meant Tim ).

 

[dwcjwerfner]

Practice races are for people without a bearing tool.
The Trailer Park Boys rocked again, what you see on TV is what you get there, lots of laughs and fun

 

[2Greys]

really? I could see that being for practice bearings but not for the races. so instead of putting between the baffle and inner race I put the shims between the pinion head and slinger correct?

 

[dwcjwerfner]

Oh right, didn't read carefully.....so people on the jeepforum make practice races for what? Stop making this harder than it is lol :flipoff:

 

[2Greys]

which is why I am asking here

Essentially it sounds like they are taking the pinion races (aka bearing cup) and grinding the outer diameter down so they fit in snug but easy enough to remove by hand. Then start the regearing.
So all that is left in the axle is the outer pinion race and from what it looks like there is nothing behind it.

 

[2Greys]

Took a couple minutes tonight and got all of the measurements for shims, baffle and slinger for the Pinion
Slinger 0.032

Shims between Inner Bearing Race and Baffle:
0.004
0.010
0.010
0.013
Baffle 0.028

Shims between Baffle and outer Bearing
0.010
0.005
0.003
0.005
0.003
0.010
0.010
0.030
Thrust Washer 0.032

Next steps are cleaning out the inside and pulling off the carrier bearings.

 

[2Greys]

popped the old seals out. although they look in perfect condition I figured:

1. I bought new ones so I might as well do them
2. never done them before so its a good opportunity and a lot easier without it under the jeep.

also I have set a deadline. I need to have the axles under the jeep and done before spring fever. most of the barriers will be financial plus for the 8.8 I need to have the rear out to make sure the bracketry is right and since I don't have the luxury of a garage I can fit into it and work on it means it needs to be outside. pray we have an early spring
In the meantime the plan is finish the Hp30, regear the 8.8 and remove all the old bracketry. while this is happening I will get all the parts I.e shafts, brakes etc. once the whether changes then pull the turdy-five and scramble to get the rest done.

 

[2Greys]

Sometimes I think by actually looking at what you have been given may save you money and answer questions. in this case it was the install kit. didn't notice that what was the pinion seal was also the inner axle seals. I had picked up a set last week and pressed them in. oh well I guess I have spares.
also one of the things I have been trying to decide on was how to proceed with guaging pinion depth. With the HP30 the shims are normally (I guess) hidden behind the inner pinion race up against the case, there are two schools of thought on this and they are:
1. make a setup race and use it and at then swap out with final race when done. Problem with doing this is it can modify the amount of backlash and pinion depth than what you have worked for
2. Rather than putting the shims behind the pinion race, you put them between the slinger and the pinion head.

I was thinking I was going to do the latter except I opened the package and after noticing the axles seals, I noticed there are 4 sizes of shims and none of them other than the slinger fit between the pinion head and the bearing. So as a workaround I found a shim that is exact same dimension as the new baffle (0.021) and will use that as the "setup baffle".

 

[trixter192]

You hear that guys? Chris is coming to Spring Fever!

 

[2Greys]

did I say that? I didn't say that? I just want to wheel carp and show that obstacle who's boss:flipoff:

Just thought of something. May still be in the Break-in period....
I started playing with a spreadsheet on when to buy stuff and if the weather is favourable I can have them in beginning of April. I would just be missing the rear adjustable control arms which I could order in the middle of the month or move it earlier (more likely). Will have to see.
Getting 500 miles is going to be difficult. I may have to tell the wife to start driving it (god help me)

 

[2Greys]

Need some suggestions on how to press on the bearings onto the ARB. I need something that is hollow and has an ID of 1.78".

 

[aweber]

Need some suggestions on how to press on the bearings onto the ARB. I need something that is hollow and has an ID of 1.78".

2" - .90 wall DOM?

 

[2Greys]

probably would work. I had a thought and it worked. I used the seal housing assembly with a 1/8" plate on top.

 

[chunkytrunks]

So Chris. Talk to me about the jj bushings. I have never seen these for the tjs before.

How much? What's the benefit's? I assume it's to cut back binding and provide better flex but does it help solve the typical tj bracket issues?


How are road manners and life span? I assume they are fully rebuildable?

 

[2Greys]

So Chris. Talk to me about the jj bushings. I have never seen these for the tjs before.

How much? What's the benefit's? I assume it's to cut back binding and provide better flex but does it help solve the typical tj bracket issues?


How are road manners and life span? I assume they are fully rebuildable?

I decided to get them as the bushings on the new axle were shot (it's a 91) and since I am doing fully adjustable control arms all around I figured why not do them as well. It was $162 US before shipping. Bit pricey but they are fully rebuildable as they are Currie JJs and a heck of a lot easier to get out than a rubber bushing . From everything I have read road manners is as good as anything else out there and supposed to be pretty hardy. You are dealing with thin metal with the TJ Brackets, does it make it better? I haven't read anything saying otherwise.

 

[dwcjwerfner]

Umm Chris why you are at it did you get these? And there is your answer too Matt http://www.tmrcustoms.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=211_214&products_id=1159

"friends don't let friends wheel with stock control arm brackets"

 

[2Greys]

Dammit Dwayne. Don't need more stuff! Might have to add that to the list (or at least wait until I trash these ones up. They are in good condition right now
Price is reasonable and 1/4" is beefy enough. I think I will put it on the list if the weather gets nice enough at the beginning of April I will order them and slap them in while putting in the front axle. It would be easier to get them lined up with the axle under the jeep, tack them on and finish and repaint.

Got the ring gear torqued on. I clamped it in the vise with two blocks of wood and took me only a couple of minutes of course that was after trying to do it while hugging it didn't work. Duh. Told Andrew (who looked pretty tired today) and he suggested the vise.