PROJECT - 86'd CJ

[Mini-T]

1986 Jeep CJ7

That is what it looked like when I got it with a blown 4.2L.


So here is the plan so far.

Engine:
4.0L from 92 YJ replaced the dead 4.2L fed by a Mallory EFI pump

Tranny:
AX15 with hydraulic clutch from 92 YJ replaced the stock T5 with mechanical clutch

T-case:
Stock Dana 300 clocked up with an Advanced Adapter...

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[Buster]

OK so that's what it looked liked then...whats it look like now???

 

[Mini-T]

Since you asked, I'll post up some pics tonight of it as it is right now.

 

[Mini-T]

More info added. Pics will go up tomorrow.

 

[Mini-T]

Update July 8, 2008
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Wheels and tires

Frame with most of the holes patched up. My goal is to have only a few holes in the frame that are sealed with boat drain plugs. Then Krown the shit out of it inside.

Drain plug

3/16" frame plates for the outer sides of the rear frame rails. I'll be making some that fit on the inner sides using these as a template.

 

[Buster]

keep the updates coming, did you make those plates or buy them??

 

[Mini-T]

Bought them from Mountain Off-Road Enterprises. Looking back I could have just traced them myself and then had them cut out. I figured that the fit would be better and it came with a pair of short plates that run on the bottom of the rail at the end of the frame.

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New body

Aqualu Ind. CJ7 body, .156" all over with some 1/4" and 3/8" reinforcing in places. The pictures don't come close to doing it justice. I'll try to grab some better pics when I start mocking it up.

 

[Mini-T]

.156" all over

I plan to bedliner the underside to cut down on noise and maybe some heat. The rest will get some flat black Tremclad. Check out Roll Your Car.com

 

[Buster]

I like the natural look!!!!!

 

[Root Moose]

Check out Roll Your Car.com

Cool find!

There is a primer (no pun) on this at the PBB by Gui but not having to wade through all the BS at PBB makes your link great!

There is some other stuff you may want to try. It's called "Noize-Killer" and is supposed to help with noise AND heat. Ceramic beads in it or something. IIRC it's somewhat expensive but easy to apply and works.

 

[Mini-T]

Natural is cool, but its not me. I think that flat black panels with gloss or semi-gloss accessories(headlight bezels, hinges, latches, mirrors, etc.) will look good.

That site was started by a guy who did his car after reading it on a Mopar forum. The 69 Charger was done by the guy who posted how he did it. It caught on from there.

 

[Root Moose]

You probably know already - but just in case...

You need a special primer for aluminum. Has to have zinc chromate or something in it to make it stick to the metal long term. When you buy your materials make sure the guy selling knows what you are shooting on to.

 

[Mini-T]

So far I'm planning to use POR15's Metal Ready in the prep for paint. It etches and leaves a zinc phosphate coating that promotes adhesion.

Tremclad covers everything I want in my exterior finish. Flat finish, easy to touch up, readily available, and decently tough.

 

[Dirk]

x2 on natural. Just clearcoat it.

Future plans:
4:1 gears
Spring over Toyota axles with 35s
ARBs

why not something a little stronger? 9" or 44 maybe?

9" from a classic Bronco is only 1" off in width.

Sweet body tho.....errhhh....the Jeep. :flipoff:

 

[Root Moose]

Make sure the POR-15 stuff is compatible with aluminum. I don't know one way or the other; all I know is that there are different materials for painting aluminum versus steel. The Land Rover guys know this stuff - maybe J-L will have some input.

Toy axle is arguably stronger than a Dana 44. Realistically probably a wash. 9" is way stronger then either though.

 

[aweber]

why not something a little stronger? 9" or 44 maybe?

Yup, 44's not stronger... Dana's should start at 60's :flipoff:

And good luck finding a pair of 9" for $250.00 :lmao::stir:

 

[Root Moose]

FJ60 axles might be around for that price range though...



Probably land anchors on 33" tires though? Need to run something like a Qtrac or Dana 18 too.

 

[Mini-T]

why not something a little stronger? 9" or 44 maybe? 9" from a classic Bronco is only 1" off in width.

This is a daily driver so for the off-roading that this Jeep will be doing I think the Toys will give me the strength I need at a decent size. The IFS rear and a widened SA front will give me an extra 2 1/2". Longfields take care of the front, and even Adrian is still using stock rear shafts.

Make sure the POR-15 stuff is compatible with aluminum.

POR15 lists Metal Ready as a must before applying POR15 to aluminum.

 

[Root Moose]

So what will the WMS of the front and rear axles end up at?

58" rear and 60.5" front?

Sounds about perfect for the build you are doing. Little narrower in the rear will make it stable at speed and help with tight turning on the trail.

Can the Toy front be modified to turn as tight as a Dana? How do you widen the front? Is that the IFS hub kit I heard someone mention on another thread?

 

[Mini-T]

So what will the WMS of the front and rear axles end up at?

58" rear and 60.5" front?

Sounds about perfect for the build you are doing. Little narrower in the rear will make it stable at speed and help with tight turning on the trail.

About 58" - 58 1/2" front and rear vs. the 56" front and 54.5" rear that came stock.

Can the Toy front be modified to turn as tight as a Dana? How do you widen the front? Is that the IFS hub kit I heard someone mention on another thread?

I'm not sure about the turning radius, I'm sure Adrian will let us know. Yes you use the IFS hub spacers.