Build Project - The Excessive Closet Juggy

blueguy

Jackstand Racer
Well, after enough badgering by Scotty Bentley of posting my build, here we go.

When I lived in Gagetown, my '00 TJ went through a series of transformations, the last ending up with 6" of lift, 35" BFG MT's, and long arms:






So, a few month project to install this...
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blueguy

Jackstand Racer
The original build specs were:

- 383 TBI
- TH400
- STaK 3 speed
- HP60 w/ Detroit
- D60 w/ spool
- 5.13 gears
- dual triangulated 4 link on both ends
- full hydro
- air shocks

I managed to end up with all that except the SBC isn't stroked yet (have all the parts, but no time :( ), and is running on propane now (gotta love no ECM to fool with :D ), went coilover, and I couldn't fit a dual triangulated 4 link in the front due to driveline placement.
On to the reader?s digest version of the build:

Started with the empty frame:



Mounted the drivetrain using AA?s SBC mount and a removable tranny / T-case crossmember; built coilover hoops, 4 link mounts, and narrowed the rear frame with the help of BTF:





Added an OBA tank and a rear winch:



When I got the body back on it, I found that the STaK clocked flat didn?t fit with no body lift, so I made it fit:





Finished up the 4 link:





Mounted up all the propane stuff and OBA ancillaries:





Got it running - not too shabby for an engine that sat idle for two years:



Plumbed the full hydro:



Got this groovy orbital bracket from Sniper Fab:



Got it out of the garage and put the Iroks on for a bit of motivation:



 

blueguy

Jackstand Racer
Added a cage. Again with no time to design and bend tube, I went with the full cage from Poly Performance:



Added some PRP seats:



Built a dash - cardboard is the new aluminum :D :



And tore it all down to finish welding and paint:



Fast forward a few weeks, much cursing, and many long hours of wiring, plumbing and painting, and I wheeled this out:







So, all I have left now is to run the breathers properly, tighten up the suspension, tighten up a bit of wiring, adjust my T-case shifters and take it for its maiden voyage - too bad that’ll be pavement only. I’m still waiting on a 1410 D60 yoke for my front end that was bought the middle of August, and I doubt it’ll be here before I leave for my “little trip” :(

Stats:

29” to the belly
115” Wheelbase
80” to the top of the cage

I’m hoping to get it to the scales this week to see what it weighs in at.

Other than it sitting a little too high (shoulda got 14” coilovers instead of the 16”), thoughts?
 
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blueguy

Jackstand Racer
If I could do it all again, I would have just gone with a production tube chassis and started there. I originally didn't intend on keeping the windshield, door surrounds, etc., but when it was still on stands, the first thing the Mrs. said to me when she sat in the passenger seat was "This will have heat right?" :lmao:

So, a few creature comforts were built into it, along with full heat, a set of full soft doors and reuse of my bikini top :smokin:
 
G

Generalchaos

Guest
According to housing your not allowed to do any of that in your garage anymore......didn't you get the letter :p :D

Yea I wasn't to happy to get that letter....but it didn't matter to me anymore seeing as the army decided to post me to Gagetown.

To bad cause I was looking forward to getting out with you guys to wheel. Awesome looking build and look forward to seeing pics on the trail. And you never know I might be back in Pet soon enough to hit the trails with yea

steve
 

blueguy

Jackstand Racer
According to housing your not allowed to do any of that in your garage anymore......didn't you get the letter :p :D

I have no idea what you're talking about ;)

Yea I wasn't to happy to get that letter....but it didn't matter to me anymore seeing as the army decided to post me to Gagetown.

The three years I spent there were great :D

And you never know I might be back in Pet soon enough to hit the trails with yea

:beer:
 

bradleyfitz

Well-known member
Club Member
Very nice build ... now I know who to call when I head in this direction :beer:

Are the hinges for your CJ tailgate now just attached to the top of the bumper? Some of the other pictures I've seen from BTF show that the metal trim piece below the tailgate is kept ... and sometimes not. It's a minor detail, just curious.
 

blueguy

Jackstand Racer
Very nice build ... now I know who to call when I head in this direction :beer:

Are the hinges for your CJ tailgate now just attached to the top of the bumper? Some of the other pictures I've seen from BTF show that the metal trim piece below the tailgate is kept ... and sometimes not. It's a minor detail, just curious.

I ended up drilling the bumper for the hinges. The BTF kit is made for use with 2-3" of body lift, and I wanted none originally, but my STaK decided otherwise if I wanted a flat belly, so that's why the piece below the tailgate was cut out.

The bumper is basically open in the rear, so I got the backing plates in there to attach the hinges to. Works like a charm :D
 

blueguy

Jackstand Racer
I?m still waiting on a 1410 D60 yoke for my front end that was bought the middle of August, and I doubt it?ll be here before I leave for my ?little trip? :(

The stars must have lined up for me - my delivery guy showed up with my yoke :D Now just gotta get it installed.....

:smokin:
 

BillaVista

PrettyBoy
Great build Nick,

What are you using for up-travel and droop, measured from static ride height? Assuming you're happy with it (which you may well not know until you test drive it - depending on how much flexing you got to do with it in the "closet") the only way to lower your ride height ( I agree 4-5" lower would be better and you'd be AMAZED at what a performance increase that can give - particularly where you have a good amount of wheelbase and a nice flat belly - i.e. you give up very little by lowering it) is to raise the upper end of the shock mounts.

Reason I ask is, only thing I would do different is to lower ride height to about 25", assuming you can do this and still have clearance for the uptravel you want (and how much uptravel you want will depend quite a bit on how fast you want to be able to drive it and if/what you plan for bumpstops).

One advantage to 16" COs - I have a LOT of 16" springs so we may be able to set something up in future if you want to try some different rates.
 

blueguy

Jackstand Racer
Today's progress:

Got the breathers routed and the suspension fasteners tightened up.

Found out my rockwell front driveshaft isn't gonna work - too short and too fat. Looks like I'm gonna have to go with a two piece front to get by the front upper frame mount :(

AND, broke the end off my TCI shifter cable for my rear STaK shifter :banghead: I knew these were hard to shift when new, but I didn't figure they were this hard. Good thing it's stuck in R Hi so I can at least take it out for a spin. I'll just add that to the list of shit to fix when I'm home next in February....

On the plus side, the trip down the 15m of driveway to park my rig on the street so I could change the oil in my pickup was exhilarating :flipoff:
 

blueguy

Jackstand Racer
Great build Nick,

What are you using for up-travel and droop, measured from static ride height? Assuming you're happy with it (which you may well not know until you test drive it - depending on how much flexing you got to do with it in the "closet") the only way to lower your ride height ( I agree 4-5" lower would be better and you'd be AMAZED at what a performance increase that can give - particularly where you have a good amount of wheelbase and a nice flat belly - i.e. you give up very little by lowering it) is to raise the upper end of the shock mounts.

Reason I ask is, only thing I would do different is to lower ride height to about 25", assuming you can do this and still have clearance for the uptravel you want (and how much uptravel you want will depend quite a bit on how fast you want to be able to drive it and if/what you plan for bumpstops).

One advantage to 16" COs - I have a LOT of 16" springs so we may be able to set something up in future if you want to try some different rates.

I never got a chance to flex it out at all in the closet. Right now I have 4" of shaft showing on the rears, and 6" in the front. I basically have 3" to play with in the front before I get contact with the hydro cylinder and the winch plate.

I had originally set it up for 4" of uptravel and the rest down travel - but that was with the original 12" air shocks I was going to use. When I got the coilovers, I changed the upper mounts to bring the ride height down, but it looks like I may have to redo the lowers as well to give me another inch or so. I'm also going to have to either bring the front axle back a bit to clear the winch plate at full bump, or notch the plate if I can.

My spring rates are 200/200 in the front and 200/100 in the rear (they came with the c.o.'s and were a wild shot in the dark), with the adjusting collar all the way out. I also managed to pick up a set of 4" air bumps to use, but I just haven't had time to get them installed :(

It really sucks that I have to wait until I get back to sort out all the little stuff here - stupid work getting in the way of my hobbies :D

I'm hoping to get it down to the railhead here tomorrow to use the loading ramp to flex it all out, so the mandatory mall crawling shots to follow :stir:
 

blueguy

Jackstand Racer
Got to take it for a spin today - well, at least down the block and back. Seems my idling in the driveway sucked up almost an entire tank of propane :confused: , and I didn't really feel like walking home....









Seems to behave well - no weird unloading or squatting, and the rear tires don't chirp too bad with the spool. I have a funny feeling this will definitely need a sway bar, although I may play with the upper link placement just see how it reacts. I do have to say though, that my Cherry Bomb is WAY too loud when goosing it. I'm definitely going to have to swap that out for a proper muffler, regardless if this'll be mostly trail only or not - I just don't dig the outrageously loud bark.

It seems my assumption about my turn radius was right - the way my lowers are placed, my turn radius is pretty crappy. Looks like I may be redesigning my lower link mounts in the spring :( to enable the tires to turn farther.

On the up side, my first attempt at rebuilding a slushbox was successful - the TH400 with RMVB shifts flawlessly :smokin:

The only place close by that does forklift tanks is closed tomorrow, so the poseur flex shots will have to wait till Monday :flipoff:
 

blueguy

Jackstand Racer
Got the rest of the interior buttoned up. Just gotta chase a loose ground on one of my gauges...





Still gotta run the cutting brake cable in the spring.
 
S

snippy

Guest
Pretty sure I've seen air planes with less instrumentation :) Interior looks amazing though!
 

blueguy

Jackstand Racer
Pretty sure I've seen air planes with less instrumentation :) Interior looks amazing though!

:D


Another great deal I got when building this thing. I only had to pay full price for 2 of them. I'm all about knowing what's going on under the hood :smokin:
 
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