Repair and Replace 90's YJ

dougiet

Well-known member
Repair and Replace work
Jeep YJ

Hi, looking for a new or used steering shaft between the steering column at the firewall and down to the Rack - Pinion Assembly. UPDATE, PART PURCHASED20210703_124137.jpg20210703_124159 (1).jpg
 

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badcompany

Well-known member
Club Member
4wp sells them
 

dougiet

Well-known member
This Jeep is showing some potential since a new battery lights up all the lights. I purchased this shit box without a battery and was not running for a couple of years so the guessing of what needs to be fixed is being eliminated. The builder of this jeep added a lot of new parts in the several thousand dollars ranges then sold it to the guy I bought it from who did not drive it much. ALL NEW FLOOR PANS AND A REWORKED FRAME are to my liking. I am in contact with the builder who misses the jeep!

The heater box has defrost air coming from a fan motor with a bearing noise.

There is no horn on the steering wheel but a toggle switch on the dash that blows a horn that sounds like a Hino Diesel Truck from China, it can really lift up them hot chic skirts!

Dash lights work. All the gauges are in the nice dash which is the only creature comfort on this jeep. I want to off-road. The odometer is posting 212000 k but means nothing.

The starter works and she turned over and over with gas poured down the carb to charge the fuel lines, pump, and carb. I did not pump the carb and open the throttle plate because was not sure which gear the B&M Index shifter is in at the tranny. The shift lever will not lift up like to be in the park position. Have to remove shift cable at the trans and move the sector switch by hand to park. Did notice one new spark plug was not firing. Have to check the Summit HEI distributor, wire, or plug.
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Cannot locate a serial number to find a manual for this shifter. 'UPDATE' This is a B&M Quicksilver Shifter


Looking for a shop or individual to re and re this YJ Dana 30. This axle is showing a bend on the long side shaft and wants to install a one-piece cromo axle and replace the vacuum actuator shaft's set up and install a smooth long shaft.

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Kunker

Administrator
Club Member
I'd check with @Burger or @Logan to see if they have a non-vac operated D30 in their bone pile first, or at least they would be my first two stops.
 

Logan

apparently the prezident
Club Member
Nothing at my place. The 2 TJ axles I have left will be going under Heep 2.0 to sell when Heep 3.0 is ready for the good axles.
 

dougiet

Well-known member
The cobwebs are gone now after this 4x4 sat in a garage for a couple. Every time the ignition key is turned another part starts working like the 4 ways switch, windshield wipers motor turns the arms, the turn signals flash!
I figured out how to shift the detent slap style B&M shifter into the park from watching a youtube video. Spent an hour web searching contact info for B&M Shifters and got nowhere, then watched a video. 'UPDATE' THIS IS A B&M QUICKSILVER SHIFTER.

Drained clean diff oil from the front pumpkin and the stamped ring and pinion ratio is 43 x 11 = 3.91

Pulled the flat fenders.

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dougiet

Well-known member
Did a compression test on this 1987 to 1990 258 i6 2bbl motor.
# 1 = 130
2 = 125
3 = 130
4 = 130
5 = 130
6 = 135

The engine was warm to hot to the touch during the test, spent 30 minutes trying to start the motor which had been sitting for a couple of years. When this motor does start a good run will help get the rings more seated around the pistons.

During this start session booster cables from a running SUV helped spin the engine, an oil leak at the oil pan gasket was chucking out oil causing vacuum loss in the engine. will now re and re the pan gasket. Previously I had siphoned 60 liters of gas out of the tank. It is a plastic 20 gallon or 90-liter capacity tank and the smell of stale gas was still in the air. This time I will remove this tank and clean it the hell up.

I would like to thank mechanic Dan from Go Wrench Auto for his efforts today.
 
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dougiet

Well-known member
Oil Pan gasket has a tear which is where the oil leak is. A new gasket will be installed.
 

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dougiet

Well-known member
Installed the oil pan with help from guide pins and Perematex gasket maker 'The Right Stuff.' Using plastic bolts 1/4x20x2 from Ottawa Fasteners I cut off the hex heads then screwed them in the block to help keep the 3-foot long pan aligned with the bolt holes and not move around.
I used six pins.

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dougiet

Well-known member
4wp sells them
I took your advice and spoke with 4WP Montreal location General Manager Michel Lacelle. This guy knows his products inside out! like Crown Jeep Parts. Buying parts from Michel is now so easy, no guessing, no sweat.
 

dougiet

Well-known member
On the wait for gas tank parts, I dove into the Motorcraft 2150 2bbl carburetor. Info from some jeep forums states this is a knockoff because of the circle cast on the side. The numbers 1.21 = 351 cfm. The measurement 1.21 is the diameter of the Venturi or open area above the throttle plates. This is a 2150 258 ci 2bbl carb which has a #52 jet dia hole. This is a lot of big air and gas for this motor, the plugs go black ass coal from just trying to start up this shit box! (rich)

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1.21 = 351 CFM is too large of a venturi. a 1.08 = 287 found in the 2100 Motorcraft carb is best suited for the 258ci.

Here's the breakdown for venturi size
venturi size is the number in a circle on side of carb.
here's a list of what = what
size cfm
.98 = 190
1.01 = 240
1.02 = 245
1.08 = 287
1.14 = 300
1.21 = 351
1.23 = 356
1.33 = 424

If you read the above and disagree please talk about it.


Just trying to start the motor and hear what it needs for repairs then decide the cost-effective next step.

A plan is to fill in the jet hole with a lead soldier and drill a smaller hole for less fuel and tape the Venturi with heating duct foil tape to reduce its size in an effort to get this motor to start. Would this make a difference?
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Kunker

Administrator
Club Member
On the wait for gas tank parts, I dove into the Motorcraft 2150 2bbl carburetor. Info from some jeep forums states this is a knockoff because of the circle cast on the side. The numbers 1.21 = 351 cfm. The measurement 1.21 is the diameter of the Venturi or open area above the throttle plates. This is a 2150 258 ci 2bbl carb which has a #52 jet dia hole. This is a lot of big air and gas for this motor, the plugs go black ass coal from just trying to start up this shit box! (rich)

View attachment 6217
1.21 = 351 CFM is too large of a venturi. a 1.08 = 287 found in the 2100 Motorcraft carb is best suited for the 258ci.

Here's the breakdown for venturi size
venturi size is the number in a circle on side of carb.
here's a list of what = what
size cfm
.98 = 190
1.01 = 240
1.02 = 245
1.08 = 287
1.14 = 300
1.21 = 351
1.23 = 356
1.33 = 424

If you read the above and disagree please talk about it.


Just trying to start the motor and hear what it needs for repairs then decide the cost-effective next step.

A plan is to fill in the jet hole with a lead soldier and drill a smaller hole for less fuel and tape the Venturi with heating duct foil tape to reduce its size in an effort to get this motor to start. Would this make a difference?
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Brennan Metcalf/Mieser runs a 2100 on his flatty Rango, swears by them and either has a list of off road mods, or sells stuff for them, I can't recall. Worth a conversation (he's easy to find on FB). Lots of info in the Rango thread too:


But it's been a while since I've dug through it.

Based on what carb experiments they've run on Engine Masters, I was under the impression that CFM didn't much matter if you had the jetting right. I'd suggest trying to find a jet kit vs solder and drilling OR look at the 2-barrel Sniper kit and forget carbs entirely. But I tend to spiral projects well out of control :)
 

dougiet

Well-known member
Brennan Metcalf/Mieser runs a 2100 on his flatty Rango, swears by them and either has a list of off road mods, or sells stuff for them, I can't recall. Worth a conversation (he's easy to find on FB). Lots of info in the Rango thread too:


But it's been a while since I've dug through it.

Based on what carb experiments they've run on Engine Masters, I was under the impression that CFM didn't much matter if you had the jetting right. I'd suggest trying to find a jet kit vs solder and drilling OR look at the 2-barrel Sniper kit and forget carbs entirely. But I tend to spiral projects well out of control :)
Right on Kunker, the link is about a good way to tune these carbs with a vacuum gauge and patients. The carb he is tuning is a 2100 at 1.08 dia venturi and a #47 jet.
He also says the size of the jet at 47 is a bit large for the 232 ci motor.
I will look into a sniper kit, and it is not easy finding jets for these older carbs, maybe I should call out to rural auto parts shops. Called the major Ford dealer on Terry Fox dr in Kanata and the parts guy dropped the phone from his hand "A CARBURETOR"?
I will follow the FB link and try and get smaller jets.
 

dougiet

Well-known member
This is one plug of six, they are brand new and look the same. The motor has not run. The engine has been turned over with boost cables for more spin trying to catch that one spark. When I wrench the engine over to find TDC and the valves closed there are two short cycles where the cylinder air is pushing past my finger pressing on the spark plug hole. On the first upstroke at TDC the rotor is on the opposite side of #1 plug then at the second revolution to TDC the rotor is on #1. Is the distributor off by a tooth or more? I recall the first revolution at TDC is the power compression stroke and the second is the exhaust. Back to youtube to refresh my old memory.:poop: 20210811_133203.jpg

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