Repair and Replace 90's YJ

[dougiet]

Thanks, guys.
It is a good base to restore with.

I watch YJ's on Youtube offroading and notice they bounce around like strippers on a Saturday night, is there an aftermarket tuned suspension kit install that could keep the jeep planted, or is it a combo of name brand components to get up over and onward.

Planning a spring retrofit of the suspension with steering, driveline, axle rebuild, and axle gear ratios upgrades to combine with 33-inch tires. Not sure of the ride height inches and gearing ratios so there is time to search over the winter and determine all of the above.

Right now the lift is 3 1/2 inches on 33's. The tires, ujonts, tie rods ends and steering bars could fail a certification. Planning to get set up and do it all.
Ordered a 2150 carb with a 1.08 venturi with #49 main jets. The Sniper carb kit will wait until some miles are driven to get an idea if the motor has power or is a rebuild. It idles well but spits and sputters in a gear under throttle. The thermostat now is at 195 degrees with no failures with this pressure on the motor.
Will change the tranny oil filter and a timing chain re re install. Soaked the cat in a 5 gal pail of soapy water for a couple of days and the exhaust is flowing well.

I am sure you guys have heard this a hundred times over.

 

[Kunker]

If you want a "cloud of titties" ride, it's not so easy. Spring rate tuning is pretty indivudualized for a specific weight, etc. Which is why coil-over guys have it easier in that they can easily swap spring rates and the like to get a good ride. If you want the same out of a leaf spring, you'll need to finish the build, corner scale it, determine sprung/unspring weight, and do your best with Alcan or another custom spring shop to get it right. Mieser/Brennan has done that recently on Rango, but even he admits it's pretty specific to a flatty, and would need to be re-calc'ed for a different vehicle.

I don't know if anyone on here stuck with a leaf sprung YJ long enough to play with different springs, this is one spot where Google might offer up better results. I know the stock YJ springs are often sought after for Sami's and other light vehicles.

 

[dougiet]

Thank you so much for your time to this post Kunker. This info is a clear direction to learn on.

I will read up on corner scaling asap and rise from a dummy to a contender.
Owe you a beer at the titty bar!

 

[dougiet]

Here is info on ALCAN SPRING / ORBIT EYES

YOUTUBE: ORBIT EYES LEAF SPRINGS

ALCAN SPRING WEBSITE: ALCAN SPRING, GET A QUOTE

 

[Twinkie]

Spring Over Axle, SOA for short. Use the stock leaf packs, can tune by removing a helper leaf in the pack to make it softer. Add a track bar in the rear to limit axle wrap, you'll fit 33's with ease, offers a comfortable ride, flexes like crazy and makes a very, very stable wheeler. It was the defacto standard of YJ mod's back in the day.

 

[Kunker]

I believe Twinkie means a traction bar vs track bar. Last time I was looking, the shackle kind were considered the best for flex, but that was a looong time ago.

 

[Twinkie]

Sure, call it what you will. Mine was fixed at the axle, and a hiem at the t-case end.

 

[dougiet]

Twinkle has corrected me, he said his wife still calls him 'Twinkie'!

This YJ build-up is good for an SOA. Planning to keep the jeep light, not load up the rear cargo with the kitchen sink and roof tent for now but sounds like fun too. The spring perches need to be welded on top of the axles including welding the traction bars mounts or just installing the shackle kind to the leaf springs I believe. Welding hiem joint mounts on the frame at the T-case area is a good start to go with a 4 link setup option down the road if possible. I would like to keep these axles and weld on risers.
Spring perches can be ordered taller to add more lift. Thanks, Twinkle.

Staying on the leaf spring discussion ...
the articulating twisting stress on the shackles can cause the leaf springs to bind and restrict performance throughout the suspension if noticeable and so on.

Articulating shackles like the ORBITS, REVOLVER, and TERA FLEX offers rotation at the shackle to keep the leafs from twisting. I feel these springs are an example.

 

[Richard]

I ran SOA for a few years and liked it a lot, soft ride and good articulation, and a rear traction bar helps a lot. The only downside is if you work the suspension a lot, such as in rock crawling, the leaves will wear down.

 

[dougiet]

Into the soft ride, one or two-track bars from the axle u bolts to the frame. I read it can be tippy? but for a soft ride, it's better than calling my jeep a 'REAR - J.'
Yes, this S.O.A. is the defacto setup for the YJ. The one concern I feel is the exposed tie rod bar bending on rocks. Was this an issue on the trail?

 

[Richard]

Yes the tie rod will get hit, and you can strengthen it by slipping a larger tube on and just welding the ends.

 

[Kunker]

I don't think you'll see much positive feedback about Revolver type shackles - a neat idea, but offer unpredictable unloading of the suspension from what I've read. Best bet is to not overthink it, and just get out on the trails with what you have, see if it works, and then go from there. (currently trying to follow my own advice and not rip out a brand new, un-run fuel system, for example).

What I mean by a "shackle type traction bar" in a rando link:

Amazon.ca

If you just have the heim, it can bind as the axle droops out and moves in an arc with the springs/shackle in the rear. Most folks (outside of brodozer diesels) run a single bar, and I think it's on the passenger side intentionally, but you'd need to look that up. Right rear should be correct since that's the side that's going to get torqued the most (driveshaft trying to spin the rear diff like a propeller).

Track bar is to locate the axle side to side vs control axle wrap.

 

[dougiet]

Yes the tie rod will get hit, and you can strengthen it by slipping a larger tube on and just welding the ends.

A common-sense approach, thanks.

 

[dougiet]

I don't think you'll see much positive feedback about Revolver type shackles - a neat idea, but offer unpredictable unloading of the suspension from what I've read. Best bet is to not overthink it, and just get out on the trails with what you have, see if it works, and then go from there. (currently trying to follow my own advice and not rip out a brand new, un-run fuel system, for example).

What I mean by a "shackle type traction bar" in a rando link:

Amazon.ca

If you just have the heim, it can bind as the axle droops out and moves in an arc with the springs/shackle in the rear. Most folks (outside of brodozer diesels) run a single bar, and I think it's on the passenger side intentionally, but you'd need to look that up. Right rear should be correct since that's the side that's going to get torqued the most (driveshaft trying to spin the rear diff like a propeller).

Track bar is to locate the axle side to side vs control axle wrap.

Thanks, Kunker. The track bar for side to side and the shackle type welds onto the axle and the frame on the right rear.
I would like to try out the suspension but parts need repair and replacing for certification. Still planning to clean it all up.

 

[dougiet]

I do like the S.O.A. action on 33's. A retro jeep is cool most of the time!

On the wait for 'yeng shei' Carburetor, going to pull the grill, rad, and get a look at the timing chain. I believe Canadian Tire loans tools like a pulley remover, timing gun, compression gages, vacuum gages etc.
For now, just holding a paintbrush.

 

[Kunker]

Thanks, Kunker. The track bar for side to side and the shackle type welds onto the axle and the frame on the right rear.
I would like to try out the suspension but parts need repair and replacing for certification. Still planning to clean it all up.

Track bar is side to side, and unnecessary in a leaf spring rig, just to be 100% clear.

 

[Kunker]

I do like the S.O.A. action on 33's. A retro jeep is cool most of the time!

On the wait for 'yeng shei' Carburetor, going to pull the grill, rad, and get a look at the timing chain. I believe Canadian Tire loans tools like a pulley remover, timing gun, compression gages, vacuum gages etc.
For now, just holding a paintbrush.

As someone who tends to go waaaay too far in a simple project, my question is "why?". They are a non-interference engine, so I'd let it go unless I knew it was noisy/trashed already.

 

[dougiet]

Yes, the track bar was installed on stock suspension YJ Jeeps, not CJ,s. Aftermarket suspension lifting caused the stock track bar to bind the axle travel and is not necessary on leaf sprung vehicles. Just watched a video on this topic!

Timing Chain install? don't buy it twice!. Going in just to have a look-see. It can be tested with a ratchet on the crank if stretched.

The carb needs a rebuild, power valve, accelerator pump, you can see it, the float is not metal, the jets are 52's and venturi is 1.21. China carb on its way, will get the wife to complain to Amazon with some b.s. and get some $$ back. Carbs are close to and over $600.00 for an Autoline and Holly Street 2bbl with the core charge. Next year will look into a rebuilt computer-style 2 bbl. This Jeep has a fuel return line installed.

Thanks Kunker.

 

[dougiet]

Have an urge to see if the timing chain has skipped a tooth on the crank? When the motor is under throttle in any gear it is hesitant, sputters, backfires out the carb, and needs a nursing pedal to get it to move. IF ANYONE HAS A REMEDY FOR THIS PLS START TYPING.

There are a hundred youtube videos on this and the Nutter Bypass. I do not see an electronic module. Could it be the wiring, grounding, vacuum leaks, dizzy?

Keep in mind the carb has an NFG accelerator pump but that alone is not the issue.

There are 4 degrees of chain stretch from following these instructions. Could have worn crank gear and skipped?

Remove the distributor cap, and turn the crankshaft, clockwise. When the rotor starts moving, stop turning the crankshaft, and read the degree meter. Note of where the rotor is, and turn the crankshaft, counterclockwise, until the rotor moves. Read the degree meter, and see how many degrees the crankshaft moved. If it is more than 10 to 15 degrees, your chain is too loose. However, these problems could also be due to worn gears or a broken tensioner.

 

[dougiet]

I have read how to check if the timing chain has jumped a tooth without removing the timing cover.
I will call Canadian Tire to see if they can loan a timing gun.

This is an explanation for checking the timing with a gun.

Look up your timing specifications in your owner’s manual. Use chalk to mark the pulley and the block scale. Hook up the timing light to the number one cylinder and start the engine. Aim the timing light at the marks. If the timing marks do not come close to alignment or you do not see any alignment at all, it means the chain has jumped position.