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PROJECT!!! Buggy Build
- Thread starter Farm Boy
- Start date
Farm Boy
Bought the Farm
So I figure it's time for a bit of an update.
Been scratching my head about what/how to do the cage and this is what I have come up with: the least amount of work, the cheapest (free, well already paid for) and gets me moving along in the build. :smokin:
The cage from my buggy:
Off with the old:
The new:
It's not as tall as it looks in that pic. I cut a couple of the mounts lowering it a few inches (as low as I could with the motor) and Lynne's perspective taking the pic
It's sitting 79" to the top, the truck was 75" before and the suspension is unloaded by 2" at the moment so I'm 2" taller to the top but if things go according to plan, that will just be increased headroom. It really doesn't seem that tall standing beside it.
Been scratching my head about what/how to do the cage and this is what I have come up with: the least amount of work, the cheapest (free, well already paid for) and gets me moving along in the build. :smokin:
The cage from my buggy:
Off with the old:
The new:
It's not as tall as it looks in that pic. I cut a couple of the mounts lowering it a few inches (as low as I could with the motor) and Lynne's perspective taking the pic
It's sitting 79" to the top, the truck was 75" before and the suspension is unloaded by 2" at the moment so I'm 2" taller to the top but if things go according to plan, that will just be increased headroom. It really doesn't seem that tall standing beside it.
Farm Boy
Bought the Farm
Sliced off the back
Removed the offending frame rails
Much cleaner now
Slugged and extended the 3 main pieces 12", I'll be adding in a new B post from the top of the boatsids up to the center bar of the roof, giving me essentially an extended-cab
Need to tie in the back of the cab to the now-cut frame
Now just need to pickup a new tank of gas for the welder......
:beer:
Removed the offending frame rails
Much cleaner now
Slugged and extended the 3 main pieces 12", I'll be adding in a new B post from the top of the boatsids up to the center bar of the roof, giving me essentially an extended-cab
Need to tie in the back of the cab to the now-cut frame
Now just need to pickup a new tank of gas for the welder......
:beer:
R
Root Moose
Guest
I'd stick another "hoop" x-member/bulkhead in there, then gap the two together in a nice way then skin it so that it looks like a big ass roll hoop.
R
Root Moose
Guest
Put the second hoop at a slight angle to give it that "at speed" look. Pure aesthetics but what the hey.
G
Grumpy
Guest
Which begs the question; WHY DID YOU START WITH A FRESH TRUCK AND WHY WOULDN'T YOU JUST CONTINUE TO FINISH THE ORIGINAL BUGGY???? :banghead:
Last edited:
Paging John Wilson - while web wheelin I found some Dana 60's on ZP.
Here's the link if it works - http://zookpower.ca/forums/showthread.php?t=10000
Here's the link if it works - http://zookpower.ca/forums/showthread.php?t=10000
S
SWest
Guest
Nice
Looking good Jon keep those pics coming
Looking good Jon keep those pics coming
Farm Boy
Bought the Farm
Bah!
It wasn't that great of a body, sure alot better than what's available around here but not perfect by any means. The box had several soft spots I found when I cut it up last year and was starting to show rust on the seams. The cab was starting to go at the body mounts @ the A post.
I figure it would be even more trashed by the end of this year so may as well get rid of it now.
Combining the truck frame and the buggy cage is actually going to turn out better than either on their own. The V8 woudn't have fit in the buggy as it was built for a 4.3 and it didn't have a fully flat belly and no easy way of getting one. I also didn't like the idea of the rear rad now that it is many years later from when I orginally built the buggy. Suspension is also much easier with the truck frame as I would have had to completely rebuild both F&R setups and also had no choice but to go full hydro which I can't afford at the moment (not to mention I'd have to redo it once I get the 60s)
Thanks Jamie, the price of the parts list to swap in 60s (or 60/14B) is almost as high as to finish the truck : full hydro, tires, rims, beadlocks, lockers, brakes.
:beer:
Farm Boy
Bought the Farm
I picked up a pair of used Corbeau suspension seats that will be going in.
With the driver's mocked in place, as it turns out, I want the tranny shifter to be right on top of the rear tcase.
Also, the twin-stick that I have is for a forward shift case and doesn't fit the top shift ones.
I now need to build a remote-location twinstick for the rear case.
I'll be using the original twinstick on the front case, left lever will shift it and the right will shift the low-range of the rear case with a linkage.
The 4wd shifter for the rear case will be relocated via another linkage to the access panel on top of the front case.
This will give me room to mount a cable operated shifter on top of the rear case as I want.
Pics from the prototype:
On the finished version, the linkages will attach to the flat steel on the top which provides the side-offset I need. Finished version will also have 3/16" base plate and 1/4" thick offset peice.
With the driver's mocked in place, as it turns out, I want the tranny shifter to be right on top of the rear tcase.
Also, the twin-stick that I have is for a forward shift case and doesn't fit the top shift ones.
I now need to build a remote-location twinstick for the rear case.
I'll be using the original twinstick on the front case, left lever will shift it and the right will shift the low-range of the rear case with a linkage.
The 4wd shifter for the rear case will be relocated via another linkage to the access panel on top of the front case.
This will give me room to mount a cable operated shifter on top of the rear case as I want.
Pics from the prototype:
On the finished version, the linkages will attach to the flat steel on the top which provides the side-offset I need. Finished version will also have 3/16" base plate and 1/4" thick offset peice.
Nice score!!!
Farm Boy
Bought the Farm
Been a while since I've updated this, some of you probably thought I'd given up.
Progress has been slow no cash for parts so doing what I can with the stuff I have.
In effort of mounting things the way I wanted, I cut the frame off just infront of the shackle mounts for the front springs and tubed it.
I ended up moving the motor back another 6" from where I'd orginally put it to give more room up front for the rad and winch and still keep a respectable approach angle.
Nose of the rig is approx 18" from the axle center line and allows for a swaybar if I'm so inclined.
Figureing the front cross bar is the bumper/winch mount/swaybar and going to take a beating, I got a piece of 2" OD .375 wall DOM for it.
Winch is mounted on channel leaving the bottom open so I can easily switch between using it as a suck down or regular winching if needed.
I've got Bill's old rad and fan, hopefully with a surge tank it will be enough. If it's not, there's room for a 28x19 universal that Summit sells.
Sorry for the crappy pic, didn't wait for the smoke to clear
Motor mounts
Cardboard mock up of the Summit rad
Fan vs water pump clearance
Progress has been slow no cash for parts so doing what I can with the stuff I have.
In effort of mounting things the way I wanted, I cut the frame off just infront of the shackle mounts for the front springs and tubed it.
I ended up moving the motor back another 6" from where I'd orginally put it to give more room up front for the rad and winch and still keep a respectable approach angle.
Nose of the rig is approx 18" from the axle center line and allows for a swaybar if I'm so inclined.
Figureing the front cross bar is the bumper/winch mount/swaybar and going to take a beating, I got a piece of 2" OD .375 wall DOM for it.
Winch is mounted on channel leaving the bottom open so I can easily switch between using it as a suck down or regular winching if needed.
I've got Bill's old rad and fan, hopefully with a surge tank it will be enough. If it's not, there's room for a 28x19 universal that Summit sells.
Sorry for the crappy pic, didn't wait for the smoke to clear
Motor mounts
Cardboard mock up of the Summit rad
Fan vs water pump clearance
Farm Boy
Bought the Farm
Truss for the 14B:
Although I've tried to cope to the profile of the diff so I can weld to it, I wasn't as successful as I would have liked and as such some of the gaps are way wider than I'd like.
I think I'm going to cut off the coped portion and box in the bottom of the truss. This will also give me the advantage of not having to weld all that to the diff.
I'll still have to weld some to the diff when I shave the bottom but there is no other option for that.
BTF pinion gurard will be added:
This will not only obviously protect the pinion but will help suppor the truss also.
The ends for the truss were kept back from the ends of the tubes enough that I can convert this axle to steering without the truss being in the way.
The lower links will also be mounted far enough in-board to allow for the conversion at later date.
Although I've tried to cope to the profile of the diff so I can weld to it, I wasn't as successful as I would have liked and as such some of the gaps are way wider than I'd like.
I think I'm going to cut off the coped portion and box in the bottom of the truss. This will also give me the advantage of not having to weld all that to the diff.
I'll still have to weld some to the diff when I shave the bottom but there is no other option for that.
BTF pinion gurard will be added:
This will not only obviously protect the pinion but will help suppor the truss also.
The ends for the truss were kept back from the ends of the tubes enough that I can convert this axle to steering without the truss being in the way.
The lower links will also be mounted far enough in-board to allow for the conversion at later date.
D
Dirk
Guest
truss looks good. I have seen and filled larger gaps...not desirable but you should be fine with that.
That pinion guard is sexy.
:beer:
That pinion guard is sexy.
:beer: