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Build Project Liberty - Trail/Overland Jeep Build
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OK hats off to you. The psgr cv was bad - I've had trouble getting the right length out of PartSource before, opted for a reman'ed NAPA axle and it fit perfectly. Dagnabbit though, totally pooched the brake line which was probably original anyhow. One of the hard sections broke off on the inside of a soft portion. The line itself was only $32 and worked well, so can't complain aside from bleeding the brakes - which I absolutely hate doing (PTSD from old failures at the process).
While doing the line, I found out that the bleed screw was pretty seized...got out the torch and the vise-grips and mangled it like only a home mechanic could. But hey, it's still usable. I took some time to try to take it apart and it's pretty seized on the lower slide pin, which still shows up as a very slight wobble on the same right turn with gas on (kudos again [MENTION=641]junkpile[/MENTION]). I'm leaving it for now as it doesn't create any heat (yet) and the rotor isn't warped (yet).
Sealed her back up (with a little cursin' for good measure) and now she's good to go.
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That one looks easy - bottom roller came out on ours, had to unhook the tensioner and drill out a retarded "security fastener" to get it back in place.
[MENTION=63]Kunker[/MENTION] I wish...but it doesn't really show all of the damage.
1 roller is shot (bearings fell apart, replaced a different one last year), 2 are bent very badly, both rails are bent in various ways, one panel is split at one side, one spring is broken and a cable snapped also. The remote no longer works (pooped out about 5 yrs ago). Pretty much all of the wood joints have been separating over the last 3 or so years too (you could see the whole thing come apart at the seams as it went up). When I went to close it last night to fix it, the one roller had already given up the ghost so I was 'helping it' follow the track. Bad move. I should have left it. It jammed and then went up and down violently 4 times before I could get to the master switch...it's a solid wood door so I think the weight didn't help.
Soooooooooooo......lol I think it's time. I've though about it a lot and I think it will need at least a full day of DIY work to fix and I really can't have it sitting open until the weekend with all the tools and sh!t in there. Plus at the end of that, it will not be a whole lot better. So, I think we're going with a new one.
1 roller is shot (bearings fell apart, replaced a different one last year), 2 are bent very badly, both rails are bent in various ways, one panel is split at one side, one spring is broken and a cable snapped also. The remote no longer works (pooped out about 5 yrs ago). Pretty much all of the wood joints have been separating over the last 3 or so years too (you could see the whole thing come apart at the seams as it went up). When I went to close it last night to fix it, the one roller had already given up the ghost so I was 'helping it' follow the track. Bad move. I should have left it. It jammed and then went up and down violently 4 times before I could get to the master switch...it's a solid wood door so I think the weight didn't help.
Soooooooooooo......lol I think it's time. I've though about it a lot and I think it will need at least a full day of DIY work to fix and I really can't have it sitting open until the weekend with all the tools and sh!t in there. Plus at the end of that, it will not be a whole lot better. So, I think we're going with a new one.
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Yeah, the difference between our old solid wood door and the new insulated one is night and day in terms of weight, and a lot less money than I expected.
Yeah we're surprised at the quote we got. Unsure at the moment which way to go.
Definitely not going all out lol, have you seen how I live???!?
Being a detached, it has a window. Good solid old opener, but needs a remote module. Getting a quote on a few repairs. It's apparently in better shape than I thought. Hmmm.
Got the hilift and floor jack to help re centre and drop it, secured the top for now...I can't totally move it back into place at the top. Maybe it's the spring. It's fine for now though.
We just repaired it. $226 later and it's 'all good' ...for the next couple years. It's a 16x8 (non-standard) so it would've taken a while to get a new door; the quote for the basic insulated one was $2100. Will have to order one in advance.
New problem that I can't figure out on the jeep and it's only when in 4wd (doesn't matter which mode). Pulling away from a stop going straight, I have to turn the wheel (or maybe it does it on its own? will have to double check) to the left about 90 degrees to keep going straight. More gas, means more steering input. Would this be a dragging caliper? I'm guessing here, but the psgr side caliper might not be releasing? Or should I look at the diff mounts.....?
It isn't happening in 2wd.
New problem that I can't figure out on the jeep and it's only when in 4wd (doesn't matter which mode). Pulling away from a stop going straight, I have to turn the wheel (or maybe it does it on its own? will have to double check) to the left about 90 degrees to keep going straight. More gas, means more steering input. Would this be a dragging caliper? I'm guessing here, but the psgr side caliper might not be releasing? Or should I look at the diff mounts.....?
It isn't happening in 2wd.
Da fawk? 12x8 insulated and installed was about $1k 3 years ago. 16x7 was about the same. Hard to believe the difference.
Had a hard time getting estimates believe it or not. The only one that replied to us was the one we went with. We tried SIX different places, left info with an actual person and each time they said they would be in touch the same day. Other than the guy that fixed it, we only got one other call 5 days later!
This is in Nepean...not sure why it was so tough to get a call back.
This is in Nepean...not sure why it was so tough to get a call back.
That sounds very strange indeed, I could see maybe a bad control arm bushing, a large difference between front tire pressures, or possibly a very worn out ball joint, inner or outer tie rod. Possibly even a blown front wheel bearing.
A caliper would not discriminate between 2 and 4wd.
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A caliper would not discriminate between 2 and 4wd.
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Hmm. Thx for the suggestions and confirming it wouldn't be the caliper. The wheel bearing was new last year and isn't throwing grease and there is no play (Moog 3 yr part). No wheel bearing issue in 2wd, I'd expect at least some howling or random sketchy steering if it was bad. Steering rack is a reman that was just installed with new rods. Tires both at 38.
LBJs are original (or appear to be), so are the LCAs. I'll double check the LBJs. I'll also check if the bushings have now totally crapped out...they were definitely looking a little 'tired' earlier this year.
Could it be a front axles/diff issue? Intermediate shaft, cv's...?? I did the driver side front axle last year with a new part. Man, this is a weird one.
Thought being that when in 4wd your front wheels are now driven and are going to take up any slack they can find in the front end naturally toeing in. Imagine your control arm is the radius of a circle and your wheel is driving around the outside of that circle. In drive they try to pull together at the front of the vehicle, in reverse the opposite. This is not the case in 2wd, they are not driven and therefore any slack will be taken up in the exact opposite way due to the natural effects of caster. They will try to flop around backwards when in drive and stay straight (ish) in reverse.
So! When you say your steering wheel turns when driven forward in 4wd, that suggests to me that there is either a very noticeable toe adjustment issue, or there must be some play in the suspension components.
The axle shaft being responsible only for power transfer shouldn't cause a pull or any steering input at all other than a wobble if said shaft is binding and or seizing. BUT! I've been wrong before and haven't seen everything. So...... lol!
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So! When you say your steering wheel turns when driven forward in 4wd, that suggests to me that there is either a very noticeable toe adjustment issue, or there must be some play in the suspension components.
The axle shaft being responsible only for power transfer shouldn't cause a pull or any steering input at all other than a wobble if said shaft is binding and or seizing. BUT! I've been wrong before and haven't seen everything. So...... lol!
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Seeing as how toe will always try to split he difference evenly between sides, if your steering wheel is turning to the left under accel in drive then I'd be looking at the left front wheel somewhere for the fault if it's a worn or loose component.
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Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Wow, detailed. I need another coffee to understand that lol! I read up on caster yesterday thinking it may be the problem too, but I got pretty confused!!! Wish I had the chance to stop in at the meeting last night (daughter had a band concert).
Yesterday I noticed when parked and wheels turned driver, that the wheels looks like \ / but not quite so exaggerated. When wheels are straight they are totally vertical.
Haven't had a chance to crawl under it - this weekend though.
Yesterday I noticed when parked and wheels turned driver, that the wheels looks like \ / but not quite so exaggerated. When wheels are straight they are totally vertical.
Haven't had a chance to crawl under it - this weekend though.
Ackermann will "throw off" alignment when the wheel is turned.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ackermann_steering_geometry
You guys know all the things. Thanks fellas.
More to come........
More to come........
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