Probably the smarter approach - if you want a tow rig, IMHO, buy a tow rig (3/4T truck based setup in your price range). Trying to tow with a JGC or other smaller (to me) SUV is going to leave you wanting.
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Build Project Liberty - Trail/Overland Jeep Build
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Probably the smarter approach - if you want a tow rig, IMHO, buy a tow rig (3/4T truck based setup in your price range). Trying to tow with a JGC or other smaller (to me) SUV is going to leave you wanting.
I towed my 4,700 lbs Jeep with a 1/2 ton Chev, 5.3L gas. It was borderline by the numbers when fully loaded for a road trip but it felt OK and towed great, even over mountains. It was a 2000 with the mid-level package, cloth heated seats and other niceties. I always found it felt like a big car, not truck like at all, and my wife felt the same. I would think that later models would only be better. The only downside is I don't think any came with diesel?
I've heard once you go to 3/4 ton parts/maintenance gets more expensive, so if you can live with 1/2 ton go for it.
I've heard once you go to 3/4 ton parts/maintenance gets more expensive, so if you can live with 1/2 ton go for it.
That's super helpful, thanks for sharing your experience. I think I'm leaning towards a 1/2 ton truck crew cab 4x4. Likely a chev 5.3. Is there any ford that would make the cut, or are they not as solid/reliable?
Don't think there are any 1/2t diesels that old. I could be wrong.
Note that Richard had one of the lightest car carrier trailers I've seen in that number as well.
If you can afford it, try to find a Chev new enough with the 6 speed auto vs the 4 - the 4L60 doesn't have the greatest reputation for reliability in many circles. Also remember that crew cabs carry a premium vs extended cabs - if you really don't need the doors, you'll find a much better deal.
If you can afford it, try to find a Chev new enough with the 6 speed auto vs the 4 - the 4L60 doesn't have the greatest reputation for reliability in many circles. Also remember that crew cabs carry a premium vs extended cabs - if you really don't need the doors, you'll find a much better deal.
OK that needs a bit more detail...how much does a 'regular' trailer weigh and how much would Richard's weigh? I would only be going to Bogie/Renfrew area and back, I'm unlikely to make many long trips with the trailer.
At the very least, I'm looking for a 3rd door, but ideally a crew cab. Probably short box and I can use an extender when needed. Yup I understood I'd have to pay more for a crew cab.
Thanks for the transmission advice. So basically the recommendation is 2007+ silverado with 5.3 and the 6L80 6-speed. Sounds like they have 4 door extendeds. That sounds like what I'd be interested in.
The 18’ steel tube framed wood decked car trailer I borrow from a buddy is 2300 or 2400lbs, in comparison I think U-Haul lists their car trailer at 2100lbs (or thereabouts) if its “homemade” find one that comes in under 1920lbs you won’t need to safety it.
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For some reason I recall Richard's being in the 1200lb range, although I could easily be on crack. I do remember being shocked at how light it was, even compared to new aluminum units. It was mentioned in a tow rig thread that Tim/OD had somewhere.
EDIT: And the safety thing - that part I'm pretty sure it wrong. It's the gross rated weight of the trailer and truck that comes into play, regardless of load on it, from what I understand.
If I remember right my trailer was 1,800 lbs. There was nothing special about it, I just ordered it new from JDS to my specs, i.e. just big enough for my Jeep. When buying used choice is limited and you end up with something bigger and heavier.
Have you weighed your Jeep yet? This is key to what size trailer you'll need and can get, and what towing cap. you'll need.
Have you weighed your Jeep yet? This is key to what size trailer you'll need and can get, and what towing cap. you'll need.
Thread I was thinking of:
https://ovo.ca/forums/showthread.php?5697-How-would-this-do-for-a-tow-rig&highlight=trailer
https://ovo.ca/forums/showthread.php?5697-How-would-this-do-for-a-tow-rig&highlight=trailer
My 16ft weighs about 1900lbs and it's overbuilt with scrap pieces of solid steel. I reckon I could shave 250lbs if i wanted to. Keep the tow rig under 5k and your load+trailer under 5k and you won't have to worry about any safeties or yellow stickers.
Of course the loophole is that if it's a camper, the rules don't apply. That's why a lot of us have slide in campers on 3/4 or 1 ton trucks.
Of course the loophole is that if it's a camper, the rules don't apply. That's why a lot of us have slide in campers on 3/4 or 1 ton trucks.
Thanks [MENTION=63]Kunker[/MENTION] for the link. Lots of things to consider.
[MENTION=1730]trixter192[/MENTION] - did you get a tow vehicle now too? I don't think the liberty and trailer together could be under 5k lbs. That would be a crazy light trailer!!
@ YJ_Driver no I haven't weighed it - stock is a hair over 4000 lbs so I doubt its heavier than your YJ....I could be wrong, but doubt it as it really isn't that modified compared to most folks. Although I would want to armour up a bit more too (needs more skids and a rear bumper...and long arm rear, and coilovers, and....). That poster in the trailer thread had a good point that 'we' will continue to add add add every year til we are 'done'. I think for me though, even though I'll add to it, I am not planning to go with tons or huge meats on this vehicle.
So no one has opinions on Fords? Any reason to not get one?
[MENTION=1730]trixter192[/MENTION] - did you get a tow vehicle now too? I don't think the liberty and trailer together could be under 5k lbs. That would be a crazy light trailer!!
@ YJ_Driver no I haven't weighed it - stock is a hair over 4000 lbs so I doubt its heavier than your YJ....I could be wrong, but doubt it as it really isn't that modified compared to most folks. Although I would want to armour up a bit more too (needs more skids and a rear bumper...and long arm rear, and coilovers, and....). That poster in the trailer thread had a good point that 'we' will continue to add add add every year til we are 'done'. I think for me though, even though I'll add to it, I am not planning to go with tons or huge meats on this vehicle.
So no one has opinions on Fords? Any reason to not get one?
Slide in's only remove the camper portion of the weight from the picture, not overall capacity as it's been explained to me. Again, for peace of mind, yellow stickers and safeties aren't that difficult.
Depends on the Ford. 6.0 diesel, hell no. I don't know much about the 1/2 tons though, especially in that price range. I'd run away from Dodge, though (and yes, I drive one).
Kunker- you’re right if it’s a manufactured trailer a safety comes into play with combined vehicle weight over 9,920lbs, I forgot to write “if it’s homemade” it’s gotta be under 1800lbs unladen or it’ll need a safety. But I was wrong, it’s actually 900kg’s so 1980lbs.
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As far as trucks go, pick your poison they’re all junk! Lol! As far as Dodges go, I have a client who’s on his second current generation (08+) Ram 1500 and he loves them no issues (other than air ride popping fuses in the extreme cold). He does daily tow a 14’ enclosed work trailer, but also trades in at or around 150,000kms... now the 03-07 model Dodges I’d stay far away from, lots of electrical gremlins (most emanating from the power distribution centre) etc.
The same era GM’s can be electrical headaches as well, Bose stereo issues, traction and abs issues, immobilizer/security system... oh and, fuel and brake lines rotting out prematurely, plastic fuel tank=good but steel sending units rotting out=bad, transfer case encoder motor issues, front wheel bearings and abs sensors, heavily corroded frames due to the open C-channel having a nice little lip to carry road grime/salt.
I don’t have a lot of experience with the Fords but what I have dealt with, the same era Ford F-150’s are not uncommon to have tranny issues, the exhaust manifolds are always leaking (broken bolts in head) and a serious PITA to do, I’ve been lucky not to have one break but the spark plugs were common to snap off in the head.
Tundra?
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The same era GM’s can be electrical headaches as well, Bose stereo issues, traction and abs issues, immobilizer/security system... oh and, fuel and brake lines rotting out prematurely, plastic fuel tank=good but steel sending units rotting out=bad, transfer case encoder motor issues, front wheel bearings and abs sensors, heavily corroded frames due to the open C-channel having a nice little lip to carry road grime/salt.
I don’t have a lot of experience with the Fords but what I have dealt with, the same era Ford F-150’s are not uncommon to have tranny issues, the exhaust manifolds are always leaking (broken bolts in head) and a serious PITA to do, I’ve been lucky not to have one break but the spark plugs were common to snap off in the head.
Tundra?
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Oh man. Lol all junk!
Thank you everyone for all of this information.
Thank you everyone for all of this information.
04 here, and yeah, had to chase down wiring below the PDC (replacement cost on the PDC was over $1k, $700 for a used gamble).
The same era GM’s can
Everyone I know has had the fuel and/or brake lines rust. I've heard a lot of issues with pump rub as well, but haven't encountered on personally yet.
Alright fellas, the libby is being kept as an off-road only project...let's see where it goes.
Just bought a 2005 JGC - new thread added.
Just bought a 2005 JGC - new thread added.
Stupid me left the battery in and now she's discharged down to 1.8V! I'll have to get another one. Who makes a good battery these days, or should I just pick up another Kirkland?
Hope to have her ready for some trails again in the spring.
Hope to have her ready for some trails again in the spring.
Is it an AGM? You might be able to recover it.
As for my recommendations they are Odyssey AGM first, but a very close 2nd and cheaper are Northstar AGM, you can get either at Total Battery.
My AGM bit the dust when it dropped below 6V. Total Battery tried recovering it for a whole week.