Project Redpoint

bradleyfitz

Well-known member
Club Member
Should have called me Brad, I could have got you a better deal:(

I had thought of that after I got off the phone with Napa. But my only real window to do it was yesterday afternoon and Capital Dominion was able to get me a rad the same day. I wanted to be done before this weekend. Next time fo' sure.
 

bradleyfitz

Well-known member
Club Member
Nth Degree Mobility Oil pan skid:



After punching the hole in the oil pan, Mike welded it up at RC in the spring. Adrian later went over it and welded the pin holes and rtv'ed the crap out of it. Leak free :D Thanks again guys.



It's a pretty simple install. Only 4 bolts (for the 98 TJ). There are two un-used bolt holes on the engine and you use and two existing on the transmission. The passenger side engine bolt went in no problem... I could not for the life of me get the drivers side to go. I even tried multiple bolts they had supplied. In the end, I busted out the tap and die set and tapped the hole. Which was not easy, considering there is no room. I ended up attaching vice grips to the end of the tap in order to do it.



 
R

Root Moose

Guest
Cool.

I'm debating the merits of one of these over a full engine skid plate. The sump hangs fairly low on the XJ. With the long arms it is likely to be the first thing to hit if I picked a bad line.

That said, I never had a problem with my Suzuki and I was really good at picking bad lines so am wondering if a little skid like yours would be practical as a form of "insurance".
 

bradleyfitz

Well-known member
Club Member
That said, I never had a problem with my Suzuki and I was really good at picking bad lines so am wondering if a little skid like yours would be practical as a form of "insurance".

I never had a problem until I punched a hole in the oil pan :stir:

3/16" steel, should be more than adequate to protect it... although I do like the idea of a completely flat underside from engine to tc.
 

bradleyfitz

Well-known member
Club Member
I picked up a CJ tailgate last year and finally got around to installing it. Painted the JEEP logo white, taped it, painted the gate black, and then unmasked it. Looks ok from a distance, looks like ass up close. I'm not so good with detail work and exacto knives it appears :p Hinges 'n stuff came from Quadratec.



 
R

Root Moose

Guest
If that tail gate is the same one I had (looks to be) it sure has made the rounds of the club. LOL

I wouldn't worry about the looks - 70s vintage Jeeps looked like ass up close from the factory. :)
 

bradleyfitz

Well-known member
Club Member
If that tail gate is the same one I had (looks to be) it sure has made the rounds of the club. LOL

I wouldn't worry about the looks - 70s vintage Jeeps looked like ass up close from the factory. :)

Lol, thanks. I may try to smooth the rough edges out a bit, but it's not high on the priority list.

This tailgate came from TO off of Jeepkings.
 

bradleyfitz

Well-known member
Club Member
33 Engineering transfer case skid plate: two piece design, low profile. You are supposed to net 2" of ground clearance over stock. 33 Engineering and Offroad Toy Store (their parent company) are now out of business. Both companies were worse on delivery than PSC. 3+ month wait times. Which is too bad, b/c it's a nice design.

Starting measurement, from lowest point on stock tc skid: just under 17" belly clearance.



I already had one broken nutsert from a few years ago and I had picked up a replacement earlier in the winter. The plan was to drop the skid, install the new one, then take the Jeep to Andrew's to weld the new rivnut in. I started to pull the bolts, only to discover that they were all free spinning. :banghead: Chris had 3 more, so I snagged those from him and headed off to Andrews.

We ground all the bolt heads off, popped them into the frame, then ground down the nutserts so we could install the new ones.



When one side of the skid was done, half the tranny mount fell out. :banghead: Picture below shows the rubber mount that fell off, the bent bar, and the bent tabs on the tranny mount.



Andrew welded it back up for a temporary fix. New poly one is on order... people say it transmits more vibes than the stock rubber, but I could care less. I like the one piece design of the poly version over the two piece stock rubber one.



4 new nutserts installed, welded, and ground down. The other two (middle ones) will be done later.



Installed cross member:





The tranny moved up a lot. I have a 1.25" BL, it had no problem clearing, nothing is touching the body. My exhaust is slightly touching the heat shield, I will probably bend the mount for it a little bit so it doesn't rattle too much (only noticed in reverse and on the trail, well, my rig aint exactly quiet... never heard it rattle).

Installed skid:



Belly clearance after? 19". So just over 2" of additional clearance over stock.



I tried to order some more rivnuts from McMaster-Carr (http://www.mcmaster.com/#95105A169) ... had them shipped to the UPS store. They called the UPS store, got my number, called me, and canceled my order. They won't export and they've gone all out crazy for some reason and flagged the UPS store as a location for "export" so they won't ship it there. Good news is they gave me a # for an affiliate store that does ship to Canada and they are coming to my door for only $21 for 10 rivnuts (inc. shipping). Weird policy, but it all worked out.
 
D

Dirk

Guest
Skid looks pimp.

I saw the tailgate last sunday, never got too close, but looked great from where I was sitting. :smokin:
 

2Greys

Insert title here
Club Member
I could have given you my old mount, I broke a bolt on it and between the two you could have fabbed one together. Since you are going poly though, no point. Plus Andrews welds are reputable :)

It is a shame though about 33 Engineering, they did have one of the best tummy tucks out there. All that is really left otherwise is Nth Degree and the Clayton.
 
Last edited:

Kunker

Administrator
Club Member
If you're running a poly trans mount, shouldn't you also be running poly engine mounts too?
 

bradleyfitz

Well-known member
Club Member
If you're running a poly trans mount, shouldn't you also be running poly engine mounts too?

How many people that go with a poly MML actually change the trans mount to poly too? The poly might be slightly more rigid, but I doubt it will be a problem.
 

Kunker

Administrator
Club Member
Just curious. I wouldn't imagine it would be a problem, just hear that comment a lot.
 

Logan

apparently the prezident
Club Member
A popular upgrade is changing the left engine mount in the S10 Blazers to poly, and no need to change the others. There seems to be no issue with the other mounts being stock.
 

Kunker

Administrator
Club Member
Really? I never had a problem with any of the engine mounts in my S10, just the tranny mount.

</hijack>
 

bradleyfitz

Well-known member
Club Member
So my jeep is completely torn down with all the parts that I had planned on selling, gone. The task remains of putting it back together again...

What it was:


What it currently is:





Rather than list what is gone, I might as well just list what remains!

Rubicon Express 4.5" short arm lift with 3.5" springs. The upper arms are adjustable, the lowers are fixed, front and rear adjustable trackbars, and skyjacker hydro shocks.
JKS 1.25" Body Lift
NP231 with Novak / Teraflex Super Short slip yoke eliminator (SYE)
Advanced Adapters transfer case bracket
poly transmission mount
32x10.5R15 RoughRider street tires on stock 7" rims.
PoisonSpyder front tube fenders with 3" flair
PoisonSpyder Ricochet rockers
CJ dropdown tailgate
Electric fan conversion
Custom cargo nets for side, rear, and front partition
H4 headlight conversion
4" LED turn signals in grill
Magnaflow 3" cat and Magnaflow 2" muffler, whith a down turn after the transfer case skid plate
"leather" shift boot mod
Rocknob! shift knob
03-06 style mirrors


I'm just getting started putting it back together. Some painting love:






The D30/35 combo that I picked up has 3.07 gears. It would have been nice to go back to 3.73 like I had before with 33's, but I figure 3.07 and 32's will probably be about the same. The rear is installed, with um, a whole shitload of lift. Hopefully when the gas tank is back in, it will settle some. Props to Dwayne for digging up a couple of parts for the D35 for me.



 

bradleyfitz

Well-known member
Club Member
I spent yesterday afternoon working on the Jeep. Cleaned up the Dana 30 and installed all the missing parts. Props to Mike, Scott, and Dwayne for the missing parts.
- Driver side axle shaft
- unit bearings
- calipers
- dust shields

I also had to replace the oil slinger and I had to pick up new bolts to attach the unit bearing to the hub. The Dana30 is back under the Jeep and it's off jack stands for the first time since, uh, March :banghead:
Stock steering box back in place as well.







Stock roll cage is also in.



Next on the list is to hook up the steering to the pitman, install the front dirve shaft, and install the f/r track bars. Very close to being a roller again.
 

bradleyfitz

Well-known member
Club Member
New(er) soft top. Mine was so beat up from offroading and from the custom cage that the frame was all tweaked, and I had multiple holes in the canvas. I picked this top up from a lady that has had it in storage for the last 10 years, it's in great shape, barely any scratches on the windows.



Steering is also in, I just need the correct size bolt for the steering dampener. Thanks go to Tim for the drag link end and steering dampener!

 
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