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PROJECT - "Truck No More"
- Thread starter aweber
- Start date
Very easy. A couple of hours of playing and I pretty much had it down.
Put the Toy to D300 adapter together:
D300 test fitted: TH350 -> Toy -> D300
I measured the length and it looks like the rear output will be pretty much in the same place as it was with the dual toy cases. Now I just have to change the seals and flanges on the outputs and I can bolt it up to the truck.
D300 test fitted: TH350 -> Toy -> D300
I measured the length and it looks like the rear output will be pretty much in the same place as it was with the dual toy cases. Now I just have to change the seals and flanges on the outputs and I can bolt it up to the truck.
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Awsome! I like that setup, looks like it'll be strong, at least case wise.
I've read that the weak points to the D300 are the 26 spl. output shafts and the aluminum tailshaft housing. behind a hi horsepower engine you may wanna consider upgrading to the 31 spl. shafts and the all steel tailshaft housing off a D20.
PS, wanna buy a D20?
I've read that the weak points to the D300 are the 26 spl. output shafts and the aluminum tailshaft housing. behind a hi horsepower engine you may wanna consider upgrading to the 31 spl. shafts and the all steel tailshaft housing off a D20.
PS, wanna buy a D20?
If it becomes an issue, then:
http://www.jbconversions.com/products/dana300/rear_out.php
But for now I will just change the seals and run it as is
You are going to wire wheel both of those and and paint the 300 right?
:flipoff:
:flipoff:
I am drinking 7 yr old Ron by the pool actually, but thanks for the concern..... lol
Ron is Spanish for Rum for you sick perverts
Ron is Spanish for Rum for you sick perverts
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Cut and ground smooth the shifter bracket off the case. Installed new seals and Toy flanges and Adapter ring:
Test fit it in the truck:
It clears everything, I do have to move the one exhaust pipe over about an inch. It ended up hanging about 3.5" below the frame. I am OK with that as the link mounts hang 3" below the frame anyway. I am planning on making a belly pan anyway.
For the X-Member, I plan to copy the FROR Toyota X-Member style. That is what I had it there and the back of this case is lining up perfect with the old mounting holes for the old X-Member.
I am going to use these bushings from Energy Suspension - Part # 9.4102G - They are very close to the original FROR bushings.
And this is the start of the drawings for the X-Member.
Test fit it in the truck:
It clears everything, I do have to move the one exhaust pipe over about an inch. It ended up hanging about 3.5" below the frame. I am OK with that as the link mounts hang 3" below the frame anyway. I am planning on making a belly pan anyway.
For the X-Member, I plan to copy the FROR Toyota X-Member style. That is what I had it there and the back of this case is lining up perfect with the old mounting holes for the old X-Member.
I am going to use these bushings from Energy Suspension - Part # 9.4102G - They are very close to the original FROR bushings.
And this is the start of the drawings for the X-Member.
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The clocking of the T-Case was driving me nuts so I drilled an additional set of holes and managed to get it clocked up another 10 Deg.
The ruler in the pic is the bottom of the frame rails:
I had to cut a bit out of the floor and the passenger side exhaust will have to move over, but I am a lot happier now. :beer:
The ruler in the pic is the bottom of the frame rails:
I had to cut a bit out of the floor and the passenger side exhaust will have to move over, but I am a lot happier now. :beer:
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S
SuziCrazy
Guest
This build is awesome! Nice work dude
R
Root Moose
Guest
Nicely done, Adrian!