D
Dirk
Guest
looking good buddy.
Wish were there to help out.
Wish were there to help out.
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Project -XJ Evolution
- Thread starter dwcjwerfner
- Start date
Thanks Dirk
Yeah I have taken on quite and endeavour but my goal is to not only have a truck that works (for at least one run) but one that works all the time, correctly and actually looks good. Wish me luck.
dj
PS I have to keep turning the radio up sometimes to make up for the lack of your volume. LOL.
Yeah I have taken on quite and endeavour but my goal is to not only have a truck that works (for at least one run) but one that works all the time, correctly and actually looks good. Wish me luck.
dj
PS I have to keep turning the radio up sometimes to make up for the lack of your volume. LOL.
Well it is 3/4" plate attached to 1/4" perches bolted together with 3/4" bolts. So 1"" of solid metal and the mounts are welded inside and out and also welded to my spring pads. I was concerned I was over building it compared to spring perches normally only welded on the outside and held to the springs with 1/2" u-bolts. People who have seen it up close have commented "that's solid". Time will tell.
dj
dj
You are right about the welds on the tube, but from what I have researched the link is usually just welded to the tube which is the same amount of surface area.
dj
dj
You guys are all scaring me lol.
L
longzook
Guest
Dwayne i like the fact that its designed to unbolt from the link but i'm thinkin the 3/8 plate isnt going to be strong enough and bend where it joins the link. i might be wrong but i would add a gussett that comes off the link somehow
either way make all this stuff strong as heck because one links have a quirk when in the mid to lower traction steep stuff
either way make all this stuff strong as heck because one links have a quirk when in the mid to lower traction steep stuff
It is 3/4" plate does that make it better? Bolted to a 1/4" aftermarket perch, so 1" solid steel 6" long. Though now you have all made me think that I will gusset where it attaches to the 2x3 even more lol.
Though the comments I have had of anybody that has seen it in real life are "that is really beefy" or something to that effect.
dj
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The location of my fuel cell has been constantly moving as other things such as crossmember location etc have changed my original rear position as if I now left it there it would be way too low for my liking.
This location is pretty sweet as it gives a lower CG and does not interfere with my suspension at all, the problem is that it may be to close to my rear seat locations which are very cramped for leg room as I am putting a set of buckets back there. I ended up with it in the middle above the floor but I am not at all happy with that location and am working on trying to get it back to here.
I have bought a couple of little winches for suck down duties when they were on sale at CTC, interestingly one of them is a Superwinch 2000lb and the other is a SKF 3000lb, can you tell the difference?
So since Marek was doing his build I figured I would keep going and do things right. When Cory owned it he had fixed the floor pretty solid by putting 2 pieces of sheet metal screwed to the frame rail top and bottom which was quite strong but it accumulated quite a bit of dirt and rust between them and in the frame rail.
I shopped vac out both sides of the truck and actually took out about 5+ gallons on each side
Which is at least 50+ lbs of dirt under each front seat as it was all packed clay in the frame rails.
Which made me think about people asking if I was putting tubes for strength on my crossmember bolts and I was always like, well they seem to be holding fine, I now know why.....because the frame rails were actually a solid as I had to break alot of it out with pry bars before I could vac it up.
A shot of the fuel tank inside where I am not really happy with it being.
The spare tire mounted inside on an angle so I can still see out the back. Since I don't run SX's I have to bring a spare you know. :lmao:
A couple of pics of where the rear seats should end up
Just a shot of the ugliness of this whole project.
The start of my boatsides.
dj
This location is pretty sweet as it gives a lower CG and does not interfere with my suspension at all, the problem is that it may be to close to my rear seat locations which are very cramped for leg room as I am putting a set of buckets back there. I ended up with it in the middle above the floor but I am not at all happy with that location and am working on trying to get it back to here.
I have bought a couple of little winches for suck down duties when they were on sale at CTC, interestingly one of them is a Superwinch 2000lb and the other is a SKF 3000lb, can you tell the difference?
So since Marek was doing his build I figured I would keep going and do things right. When Cory owned it he had fixed the floor pretty solid by putting 2 pieces of sheet metal screwed to the frame rail top and bottom which was quite strong but it accumulated quite a bit of dirt and rust between them and in the frame rail.
I shopped vac out both sides of the truck and actually took out about 5+ gallons on each side
Which is at least 50+ lbs of dirt under each front seat as it was all packed clay in the frame rails.
Which made me think about people asking if I was putting tubes for strength on my crossmember bolts and I was always like, well they seem to be holding fine, I now know why.....because the frame rails were actually a solid as I had to break alot of it out with pry bars before I could vac it up.
A shot of the fuel tank inside where I am not really happy with it being.
The spare tire mounted inside on an angle so I can still see out the back. Since I don't run SX's I have to bring a spare you know. :lmao:
A couple of pics of where the rear seats should end up
Just a shot of the ugliness of this whole project.
The start of my boatsides.
dj
Hey Dan
Well it seems that people are using them, I know that Mike Lorint broke cable with a little winch like this, I will be using a snatch block so that will double the pull. If not I will have to look at a bigger winch and I am planning on going to rope for them as there is somebody on Pirate (Masterpull maybe) who is selling remnants (15-30ft) cheap.
dj
Well it seems that people are using them, I know that Mike Lorint broke cable with a little winch like this, I will be using a snatch block so that will double the pull. If not I will have to look at a bigger winch and I am planning on going to rope for them as there is somebody on Pirate (Masterpull maybe) who is selling remnants (15-30ft) cheap.
dj
Farm Boy
Bought the Farm
Mike's was on a snach block when it broke. Run a larger cable and you should be fine. Then again, your rig weighs 3 times what Mike's buggy did.
For what its worth, I'm going to be running an M6000 as my rear suck down winch -- a bit overkill but I have it and could always be used to pull me backwards if need be.
For what its worth, I'm going to be running an M6000 as my rear suck down winch -- a bit overkill but I have it and could always be used to pull me backwards if need be.
Oh I guess I am mistaken I had heard he was almost 2500lbs, is that incorrect?
I have a supposed 3000lb one in the rear and with a snatch block it has a hard time compressing the suspension. I am running 300/250 springs in the coil overs.
That being said, it has saved my ass on at least two occasions so it has done it's job.
That being said, it has saved my ass on at least two occasions so it has done it's job.
Farm Boy
Bought the Farm
He'd told me it was 1600lbs, (might have been 1800) but was way under the 2000 mark.