The KBGP

2Greys

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Club Member
So you have earlier than a 91 I think.
You need to read this:
http://www.stu-offroad.com/axle/yjd30convert/yjconvert-1.htm
and you can get the stuff
http://www.4ws.com/jeep-dana-30-vacuum-disconnect-block-off-plate-seal.html
You may be able to get cheaper. Talk to PJF they carry a lot of Yukon stuff
But, my opinion, get rid of the axle. Unless you are swapping them out the shafts are smaller than the non disconnect ones. If you can find an XJ that is 91 or newer or has ABS you get the bigger shafts and u-joints that are the same as the TJ.
However if you are swapping in TJ shafts ignore what I said
 
K

KBjeep

Guest
Th tj axle swap was done already. I order a seal for the ps from caps $12 using the number on the old seal 471763
 
K

KBjeep

Guest
Thanks for that link. I opened the vacuum block off plate to further clean it out besides the inch of nasty, I found a seal trashed. Maybe the previous owner should have taken it out? It looks like it trapping debris.
 

2Greys

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Club Member
Not that familiar to be honest with the vacuum disconnect models other than I avoided it when looking for my HP Dana 30. The only difference that was a negative is the original shafts uses a smaller u-joint while the non-disconnect used the same ones as the TJ and it was one less thing to deal with. Rumour has it that the disconnect housing is a bit more sturdy than the non disconnect but that is just rumour and hearsay. Plus we are talking Dana 30's. :D
 
K

KBjeep

Guest
I decided to leave the seal out of the vacuum housing. I cant see a machined surface in the middle of the tj shaft.
 
K

KBjeep

Guest
Not that familiar to be honest with the vacuum disconnect models other than I avoided it when looking for my HP Dana 30. The only difference that was a negative is the original shafts uses a smaller u-joint while the non-disconnect used the same ones as the TJ and it was one less thing to deal with. Rumour has it that the disconnect housing is a bit more sturdy than the non disconnect but that is just rumour and hearsay. Plus we are talking Dana 30's. :D

I think the disco housing would be weaker. The tube doesn't run from housing to knuckle. More joints the weaker it is? The housing Is pretty beef but how thick Is the tube. Plus we are talking about d30's. Lol
 
K

KBjeep

Guest
There seems to be play in my ring gear. I can rotate it approximately an 1/8 inch. I checked the contact pattern it seams ok to my un trained eye. Contact in the middle of the ring and about 2/3 down the teeth. The drive shaft has a similar play at the t case and diff(front and rear) at first I was leaning towards bad setup now im leaning towards tcase problem. Web diagnostic it always hard ;-)
 

2Greys

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Club Member
Sounds like the backlash. THere is supposed be a tad bit of play between the ring and pinion this allows the gear oil to get between the two. Too little will burn out the gears, too much and I believe you risk chipping gear teeth. Usually backlash is measured with a dial indicator by placing it perpendicular to the ring gear and seeing how much it moves from the pinion touching one gear to the next. Usually it is between 0.008" and 0.019". I would almost say it sounds normal. Now if it is excessively sloppy...
Caveat: I have only regeared two axles by myself and have yet to see if the results are any good since the stupid snow won't go away.
 
K

KBjeep

Guest
No road noise until I let of the gas while in gear at 100km. If I push in the clutch the noise goes away.
Hp30 4.56 with 33s
 
K

KBjeep

Guest
Would a stretched tcase chain cause that noise? Or do I need bigger tires......please be the bigger tires!
 
K

KBjeep

Guest
I decided to leave the seal out of the vacuum housing. I cant see a machined surface in the middle of the tj shaft.

Well I foolishly parked on my remaining snow hill crooked and found a slight pool of diff fluid in my c. :-( I have the inner seal seated. I have to smooth out the tj shaft and seat the vac. housing seal to keep the crud out?????
 

Kunker

Administrator
Club Member
Inner seal with a good seal surface on the shaft should be enough. Can you see where it is weeping on the inner seal? ie. tube edge vs shaft?
 

Kunker

Administrator
Club Member
Tube edge, I'd RTV the seal in, let it set up overnight, then re-insert the axle and re-fill. It would be worthwhile to look for any obvious tears or problems with the seal and mating surface.
 
K

KBjeep

Guest
I'm giving up on the inner seal for now. Cleaned up the outer seal surface and put some rvt. Then installed the seal with my $6.00 tool.
It started going in crooked so I added a large socket to spread out the force.
 
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