Yello

[aweber]

i cut out the horizontal bracing B to C....

Gonna replace it with a straight piece? You can borrow the tubing notch-er if you like or just cut them at my place...

EDIT - Or give me the dimentions and I can bring them to the next meeting - I still have some of your tube I believe for it...

 

[O.D.]

I'll worry about it in the Spring. I'd like to get a piece back in there. I think the bend should be near the B pillar and not the C pillar to accomodate the arms that drop down on the soft top. No worries.. Once the snow melts in 2015

 

[Burger]

looks wicked!

 

[dwcjwerfner]

Nice work Tim!

 

[O.D.]

So, it's been a while. I really haven't had allot of free time as of late and to be honest, i have little to no motivation. One of my last planned weekends to work on it, resulted in me realizing that both inner axle seals on the front axle leaked like sieves.... So, i decided to get them replaced but in doing so, i found out that my spindles are both pitted to shit. As i looked more and more, i realized that this axle needs a serious rebuild. Then felt that perhaps i should upgrade while i am in there to 35 spl stubs, which leads to new hubs which by that point, i felt that I HAD to have the orange knuckles.... Just waiting for Black Friday to place my order.



My shit list has definitely been shortened:

- Front axle rebuilt (New seals, bearings, bushings, KP rebuild, new spindles, Reid Knuckles, 35spl stubs, 35spl hubs)
- Front Brakes (Have all the parts, will do once i have the front rebuilt)
- Electric Fan wired
- Antirock on the front (There are clearance issues on the DS with the trackbar mount. I may have to order JK arms...)
- I think i am going to have to raise my Rad about an inch (Or as much as i can before i hit the hood)... There looks to be clearance issues on full bump with the steering arm.
- A/C lines and collector if i decide to go ahead and install it.
- All the signals and tails.. (They are really fakked up and i cannot figure out why?)
- Relook at how i have my Hydro assist lines run and possibly change up for clearance.
- Driveshafts measured and ordered
- Exhaust

- Learn how to adjust ORI's and dial in my ride height
- My atlas simply will not change gears at the moment. Not too sure why this is as it has yet to even be used. I am hoping that it's locked with the tranny and once the vehicle is running, it will be fine?
- I have no e-brakes at the moment (Not going to worry too much about this for the time being.

BUT, last night after screwing around with the engine for a while now (I could not get it to roll over), i had a moment of renewed motivation

And it LIVES!!!!

 

[aweber]

Mine ran like that too when I first started it LOL - Your missing a sensor or something (mine was o2 sensors not plugged in) Do you have a code reader and did you retain the ODBII Connector?

 

[O.D.]

Mine ran like that too when I first started it LOL - Your missing a sensor or something (mine was o2 sensors not plugged in) Do you have a code reader and did you retain the ODBII Connector?

I am missing 4 o2 sensors actually as i have no exhaust at the moment

I have a bunch of codes.. Some i can address, one or two i will have to hunt down.

Fact is i actually thought the motor was seized!!! So the fact that it started up and ran as well as it did made my day.

 

[2Greys]

Getting there!

 

[dwcjwerfner]

Cool!

 

[junkpile]

Were you able to get the put it in gear to try to shift the t-case?

 

[Impact]

Sweet!! Nice to see

 

[O.D.]

So, i have been waiting for Black Friday to order my parts for the front axle. Did a quick stop at Brown Santa's shop today....

Some Dana 60 goodness!!!

 

[mucovich]

nice stuff!!!

 

[O.D.]

Question for the Edumacated...

I've got one side pretty much all buttoned up with regards to the Kingpin. Everything looks flush and tight to each other as per specs with the exception of one part. I installed the Reid Knuckle and so far so good. i then slipped on the bushing on top and it's not seating down enough to allow the clearance for the TMR high steer arm. FWIW, i went ahead and got the reid bronze bushings. On their own, everything clears but when it's all installed, either the knuckle needs to come up more or the bushing needs to go down into the hole more so as to allow me the clearance to bolt down the high steer arm flush to the finished top of the knuckle.

by tightening the studs between the h-s arm and knuckle, will this theoretically pull the knuckle upwards? There's an adjuster stud in the center of the arm that when tightened, it forces a round closed washer down on the bushing, which i am guessing would also do the same. I am just leery about fakking something up at this stage. I have double checked everything and at this point, all is as it should.


I can get some pics.

 

[mucovich]

I am only using stock style bushings (would love to get those Reid bushings) but if I remember right when I did mine I needed to suck mine up with the high steer arms (slightly) just like you are describing. Just tighten the studs slowly a little at a time evenly - if you encounter a lot of resistance I'd back it all off and re check the bottom bearing so that it's properly seated. Again, if I remember right the top adjuster nut was loosened all the way so that when it was all seated properly I then adjusted it.

 

[O.D.]

Looks like that resolved it Marek. Thanks... I noticed though that the ARP studs should not be that tight.... It really hinders the swivel significantly.


Now.. On to the next problem.


I was working on the spindle and i cannot get the rear face of the spindle to mate flush with the outside face of the knuckle. I have almost 1/4" of a gap? Everything is seating correctly, everything aligns.. But i am limited with a hard limit. It literally feels like the inner shaft cannot go anymore into the carrier??

I did a test fit on the PS and it seems to fit all nicely and flush...



What the Fakk could be causing this???

 

[junkpile]

With the cover off can you see if the shaft has actually bottomed out, maybe there's a burr or something on the shaft splines or in the axle gear splines? Maybe something was in the tube and you shoved right into the carrier causing the axle to bottom out?

 

[O.D.]

I ended up going back to my pics and noticed that the caliper bracket is mounted between the spindle and the knuckle. I then checked the other side and i had the same gap. So, this the reason




Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

 

[O.D.]

Well, after allot of cursing and swearing, it looks like i am almost there with the TJ.

Testing it out and it handles quite well actually. Wicked body roll though. I do have a front antirock to install but the arms will not clear my protruding Track bar frame side mount. I've ordered the bent arms but have been on back order forever... I may look to add sway bar on the rear as well.. See how the front changes the roll.

Pick up is pretty crazy. Considering I am on 40's, i can get it up to 120 very very fast!!! The detroits are interesting to drive on pavement.

Exhaust is bent up, 2 1/2 to the cats, 2 1/4 into a Y into a single muffler, then it dumps shortly after the skid. Very very tight fit. Not too loud. Sounds nice....

I have been having a very hard time with the shifting on the ATLAS. basically cannot get into 4WD easily. I have to screw around with going into neutral/reverse/neutral. As i shift the tranny into reverse, if i simultaneously shift the TC into 4H or 4L, it'll work. From what i have read, this is supposed to get easier and easier as they break. I hope so.

At this height, i have about 4" uptravel, about 10" down. skid is sitting at around 23". I could possibly squeeze maybe another inch of uptravel and still clear the garage door but that's about it. Been twisting it up allot today and from all accounts, everything clears... Only area that rubs is on full stuff, the rear tires rub the ORI's.

 

[dwcjwerfner]

Looks great Tim!