Project Redpoint

Richard

Commoner
Club Member
Great work Adrian, I think you just started a business :cool: I'm interested too, no rush though, I don't need it till next year :beer:
 

aweber

This thread is :rainbow:
Staff member
Club Member
Anybody know of a cheap shop for rent LOL, quit my job and do cages :lmao:
 

bradleyfitz

Well-known member
Club Member
I had read (once) about the sump falling off the stock TJ pump, but was in a rush when I installed the pump, so thought to myself: "what are the odds of that happening? surely if it happened frequently, everyone would mention it in their build up thread". Turns out the odds are pretty high. On the access road after running the Quinn, I hit a large bump and the Jeep died. I suspected that the sump had fallen off the pump (there is a 1" gap under the fuel pump, it does not sit flat on the bottom of the tank).

With Melissa's help yesterday, I had the pump out of the fuel cell and fixed in about 20 minutes.

The sump is just supported by three little tabs, so you can see how it could easily detach.



Problem solved by three self tapping screws. Shouldn't fall off again.

 

bradleyfitz

Well-known member
Club Member
When I ordered the 5-point harnesses, there was a small mixup in that I wanted wrap around mount for the shoulder harness and bolt-in for the lap and sub belts. Poly ended up placing the order for wrap around mount for all belts (to add to the snafu, Crow sent me the wrong colour shoulder pads to boot).

A quick call to Poly had the mounting hardware for the lap belts drop shipped from Crow and they made it to the UPS store in less than a week.

I have 3" belts and the slot on the mount is only 2" wide. I didn't install them for the Quinn run, as I thought this was a mistake. Looking at Bill's harness article this weekend I see that this is the intent. So the harness' are now installed.







 

bradleyfitz

Well-known member
Club Member
Yeah, it will be getting comp cut relatively soon, hopefully. I will be adding flares ... friggin' mud goes everywhere without 'em.

Corners are from SniperFab. Custom order (no tailgate cutouts and no holes for lights) in less than 5 working days.

 

bradleyfitz

Well-known member
Club Member
Not much of a mod, but sometimes the box pile in the garage just gets to big and you have to make some room :p One box down, several to go ...

I was patient and found a good deal on eBay to replace my full center console with a half console and e-brake boot. Came out of a 97 IN 97 ... mint.



 

bradleyfitz

Well-known member
Club Member
On the last couple of runs, I've been overheating. A number of the fins are damaged on my rad, so I figured I'd replace it. The current one has lasted 6 years, so I went back to Capital Dominion to get another single core rad.



Drained the fluid, nice rusty brown colour. I decided to use de-mineralized water this time to see if that would make a difference on how clean the antifreeze stays over time. It was only ~$2 a jug, worth trying IMO. Ignore the oil droplets in the below picture, it's from oil that was still in the catch container.



The inside of the overflow bottle was disgusting.



The backside of the rad was pretty dirty. Hard to get at with the hose. I cleaned it up to get a better look at how damaged the fins were.





I flushed the heater core with the garden hose while everything was disconnected. I did this a few years ago when I didn't have any heat (the heater core ended up being plugged with crap). A little bit of junk came out this time, but not much really.

Installed the new rad ... cleanest it will ever be.

 

O.D.

Well-known member
Club Member
Brad,

What did the new rad cost if you don't mind me asking? I have a very strong suspicion, i am going to have to replace mine. Just curious what they cost locally.



On the last couple of runs, I've been overheating. A number of the fins are damaged on my rad, so I figured I'd replace it. The current one has lasted 6 years, so I went back to Capital Dominion to get another single core rad.



Drained the fluid, nice rusty brown colour. I decided to use de-mineralized water this time to see if that would make a difference on how clean the antifreeze stays over time. It was only ~$2 a jug, worth trying IMO. Ignore the oil droplets in the below picture, it's from oil that was still in the catch container.



The inside of the overflow bottle was disgusting.



The backside of the rad was pretty dirty. Hard to get at with the hose. I cleaned it up to get a better look at how damaged the fins were.





I flushed the heater core with the garden hose while everything was disconnected. I did this a few years ago when I didn't have any heat (the heater core ended up being plugged with crap). A little bit of junk came out this time, but not much really.

Installed the new rad ... cleanest it will ever be.
 

bradleyfitz

Well-known member
Club Member
Brad,

What did the new rad cost if you don't mind me asking? I have a very strong suspicion, i am going to have to replace mine. Just curious what they cost locally.

$259 from Capital Dominion.
$350 from dealer.
$256 from Napa.


Radiator.com had rads for $119 USD and $203 USD. Not sure of the difference between the two.
 
K

kbrousseau

Guest
$259 from Capital Dominion.
$350 from dealer.
$256 from Napa.


Radiator.com had rads for $119 USD and $203 USD. Not sure of the difference between the two.


Should have called me Brad, I could have got you a better deal:(
 
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