|
|
|
My "Big Baby" Axle Swap thread
- Thread starter 2Greys
- Start date
Looking good Chris!
Well I got home a tad early from work and was able to get a jump on things for this weekend.
I got the bracket mounted on the AC bracket (I made it stick out a bit in the back to try to avoid and debris from going into the air intake from underneath (I love how the protective cover for the heater core hose has all split. It did that a long time ago))
I then mounted the Compressor
It is definitely going to be a pain to get at the air filter but it will still be possible just need to disconnect the harness. I need to decide what to do with the relay. There is enough play with where it is that I can probably attach it to the same bolt that is used for the lights ground.
I mostly got the harness all nicely setup all of the way into the cabin and to where the switch panel will be on the console. There is about an extra 16 inches of wires that go to the switch panel I need to think about what to do with that. Maybe I will look about looping it inside or just make a small loop on the outside and ziptie it to the firewall.
I got the bracket mounted on the AC bracket (I made it stick out a bit in the back to try to avoid and debris from going into the air intake from underneath (I love how the protective cover for the heater core hose has all split. It did that a long time ago))
I then mounted the Compressor
It is definitely going to be a pain to get at the air filter but it will still be possible just need to disconnect the harness. I need to decide what to do with the relay. There is enough play with where it is that I can probably attach it to the same bolt that is used for the lights ground.
I mostly got the harness all nicely setup all of the way into the cabin and to where the switch panel will be on the console. There is about an extra 16 inches of wires that go to the switch panel I need to think about what to do with that. Maybe I will look about looping it inside or just make a small loop on the outside and ziptie it to the firewall.
Lol! This whole time I assumed you were doing this swap into a Cherokee! Sorry 'bout dat!
LOL that would make sense why you were asking!
So yesterday I got the switch panel fitted into the console All that needs to be done with that is get the ignition and illumination wires spliced. Stupid thing is they provide one splicer but there is two wires? WTF?
On the other side of the harness I need to get the 3 battery wires (the compressor is designed for both 12 and 24v) cut down to the right length and the eyelets attached. Then I may put the battery back in since it looks like we aren't hitting the sub 20 temperatures anytime soon. Also need to look at where to mount the relay so isn't dangling. I think I will be using the same bolt that I am using for the ground on the LED turn signals.
So yesterday I got the switch panel fitted into the console All that needs to be done with that is get the ignition and illumination wires spliced. Stupid thing is they provide one splicer but there is two wires? WTF?
On the other side of the harness I need to get the 3 battery wires (the compressor is designed for both 12 and 24v) cut down to the right length and the eyelets attached. Then I may put the battery back in since it looks like we aren't hitting the sub 20 temperatures anytime soon. Also need to look at where to mount the relay so isn't dangling. I think I will be using the same bolt that I am using for the ground on the LED turn signals.
When I did my SYE I had replaced the rear UCAs with adjustables. The only issue with adjustables is there is no where to attached emergency brake cables. I decided to order some adel clamps from Aircraft Spruce. $2 in parts and $9 in shipping..
Weather has been nice somewhat over the last week and especially today I was able to finish getting the Compressor installed and wired. Got the switch panel installed. Very detailed Instructions were found here
Also tested out the compressor and removed two minor air leaks which were the pressure switch and the external air port which in both cases needed more tape.
Now we wait...I am hoping to start in three weeks.
Weather has been nice somewhat over the last week and especially today I was able to finish getting the Compressor installed and wired. Got the switch panel installed. Very detailed Instructions were found here
Also tested out the compressor and removed two minor air leaks which were the pressure switch and the external air port which in both cases needed more tape.
Now we wait...I am hoping to start in three weeks.
Thanks
Weather is really nice today so I decided to get a head start in pulling the rear axle. Since I will be replacing my hard rear brake line I was able to cut it and crimp it closed.
After that I disconnected the lower shock mounts and the swaybar.
Thank god I am replacing the axles as when I was in the midst of this I looked in the frame and it looks like right below on both sides where the upper control arm brackets are situated the steel has pulled away. So now I am on the hunt for new UCA brackets on the frame. Once I get the axle pulled out I will do some poking. I hope I don't have to replace the whole portion right there. I don't think so as the tear is about 3/4" up from the bottom
DAMMIT!
Weather is really nice today so I decided to get a head start in pulling the rear axle. Since I will be replacing my hard rear brake line I was able to cut it and crimp it closed.
After that I disconnected the lower shock mounts and the swaybar.
Thank god I am replacing the axles as when I was in the midst of this I looked in the frame and it looks like right below on both sides where the upper control arm brackets are situated the steel has pulled away. So now I am on the hunt for new UCA brackets on the frame. Once I get the axle pulled out I will do some poking. I hope I don't have to replace the whole portion right there. I don't think so as the tear is about 3/4" up from the bottom
DAMMIT!
I went out and got pictures they aren't cracks they are tears.I may be able to hammer back in and weld it back together. But I will definitely have to poke at it with a screwdriver. May have to cut off and plate the inside and then put on some aftermarket brackets. Artec has some for $29 each
Here is the carnage
Passenger side (it is on the left side of the picture
Driver side
Looking at the passenger side, I am thinking it may be time for a new mount.
I just wonder if I was to basically cut back and weld in a piece of 3/16-1/4 flat Steel and then weld the bracket to that if it would be enough. Worst case would be the Safe-T-Caps but they are pricey.
Here is the carnage
Passenger side (it is on the left side of the picture
Driver side
Looking at the passenger side, I am thinking it may be time for a new mount.
I just wonder if I was to basically cut back and weld in a piece of 3/16-1/4 flat Steel and then weld the bracket to that if it would be enough. Worst case would be the Safe-T-Caps but they are pricey.
Last edited:
Good thing you don't wheel that like a madman or your axle would have run away from you :beer:
That area on each is notorious for rotting out. I had that on OD as well. I cut out all the rust in the area, then made a template out of cardboard to cover the holes sufficiently, then went to loucon and got some plate, then cut it to match the template and ensured the ends were tapered, then welded it right to the frame. I am most certain that would suffice for your needs.
If you can gingerly cut off the OE brackets, then you could weld them back onto your newly repaired plate
If you can gingerly cut off the OE brackets, then you could weld them back onto your newly repaired plate
Similar to the hack job I did with my fenders before I replaced them. I have probably enough spare plate laying around. Once I get the axle out from under the jeep I can poke at the frame and see how bad it is.
For the driver side if I can smack it back in and the frame is not that bad I could do the plate reinforcing but the passenger side has tore in two places. May be able to repair it but I am tempted to just call it a day and get these from Artec and swap them in:
http://www.artecindustries.com/Inner-Frame-Bracket-single_p_259.html
My biggest concern is welding so close to the fuel line and whether I can do it without lifting the tub
Last edited:
Matt did the inner rail on my CJ (which oddly looks better than that) easily without lifting the tub, although I'm pretty sure there's a body lift on it. Do you need to weld on the top part of the rail? How hard to pop the fuel lines off and wrap them? Would loosening the body mounts and just jacking up the back of the tub be enough?
Last night while shoveling I went and stabbed at the outside and it is solid. Didn't check the back since I didn't feel like laying in a couple inches of snow. I did a half-assed poke at the underneath and I didn't go through but it may be softish. Definitely will need a grinding.
I will try and get an idea of how much I will need before next meeting and send you measurements.
I will try and get an idea of how much I will need before next meeting and send you measurements.
Here is the skinny, I need to replace my rear UCA brackets on the frame since they have pretty much rotted out. I am about to throw a Ford 8.8 with the Artec Truss under my jeep but before I can do that I need to deal with the frame side UCA brackets.
I am looking at getting the Artec Inner Frame brackets.
Here is a link for your perusal:
https://artecindustries.3dcartstores...gle_p_259.html
The thing I don't know for sure is which degree to get.
Supposedly the stock brackets are set at 10* which is fine however Artec has informed me that I should get the 25* ones since I have their truss. Only reason I am questioning is if someone else has done this and I think if there is anyone else in this boat in the future they may benefit from this thread.
Just looking for a second opinion and also want to pull the trigger in a couple of days.
