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My "Big Baby" Axle Swap thread
- Thread starter 2Greys
- Start date
Which may be a problem for Chris as TJ's have a track bar in the back, do they not? Why did Artec recommend the 25* brackets?
You might want to phone back and see if somebody else says the same thing
I may have to. The problem is I am doing both the truss and the brackets at the same time. What I am thinking I might do is get the truss on and then measure for the brackets. The brackets are close to where they are stock even though they are peeling off and then once the truss is good I could then figure out if 10* is good or go up to 25.
Also looking at the instructions for the truss it assumes you have the stock bracketry so that would make me think the 10* are fine. What I am thinking is order them as I can use them on the front if they don't work.
Also looking at the instructions for the truss it assumes you have the stock bracketry so that would make me think the 10* are fine. What I am thinking is order them as I can use them on the front if they don't work.
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Yeah sometimes it is the 2nd or 3rd phone call that clarifies a miscommunication on one end or the other.
I write this as I wait for feeling to return to my fingers.. Holy crap it cooled off quick
Pulled the rear drive shaft as it was too awkward to try to put on the flange adapter for attaching it to the pinion flange on the 8.8. While I was under there I did some jabbing at the frame and didn't break through. I think that the tearing was purely because of the stress put on it off roading, I also thing that mixing JJ's with standard bushings probably is not as good as keeping one or the other (probably totally out to lunch on this). Odds are if it never left asphalt I probably wouldn't have been seeing the tearing. The tears are maybe an inch long on each side. I think if I cut off the old brackets maybe cut back about 3-6 inches on each side and then patch with 3/16" it will be good. Definitely needs cleaning up and repatching. Around the same time I will be looking at cleaning up my nutserts and patching a couple holes that were cut into the frame when a mom and pop shop was too cheap to replace a nutsert and put a bolt inside the frame before.
Pulled the rear drive shaft as it was too awkward to try to put on the flange adapter for attaching it to the pinion flange on the 8.8. While I was under there I did some jabbing at the frame and didn't break through. I think that the tearing was purely because of the stress put on it off roading, I also thing that mixing JJ's with standard bushings probably is not as good as keeping one or the other (probably totally out to lunch on this). Odds are if it never left asphalt I probably wouldn't have been seeing the tearing. The tears are maybe an inch long on each side. I think if I cut off the old brackets maybe cut back about 3-6 inches on each side and then patch with 3/16" it will be good. Definitely needs cleaning up and repatching. Around the same time I will be looking at cleaning up my nutserts and patching a couple holes that were cut into the frame when a mom and pop shop was too cheap to replace a nutsert and put a bolt inside the frame before.
Right now with 5 bolts I could pull the rear axle except with the next 3 days having a 60% chance of snow I can't be bothered. Instead I got the vent hose and measured the Inner Diameter which is 5/16" and I also measured the current angle of my Dana 35 which is 15*. I pulled the driver side shaft out of the 8.8 in preparation to drill the hole for the barb I am using for the vent hose. I also put the pinion at 15* and put on the truss at 0 to get an idea where to drill. I also tried at 17* and the truss moves like an 1/8" if that. So it means I can assume at worst is going to be 15* and should be able to drill there. The good news starting Thursday the weather is supposed to be +6*C. If I am lucky Sunday may be the day...
Also noticed that the driver front LCA was pushed in a bit on the inner side, probably tapped it on a rock at one point. Still fine but surprised I didn't notice it.
Also noticed that the driver front LCA was pushed in a bit on the inner side, probably tapped it on a rock at one point. Still fine but surprised I didn't notice it.
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Yesterday I got my replacement Stainless hard line to the rear from Classic Tube. Shipped really quick. Artec rear brackets are pending release from customs and should be hear by Monday and the Savvy Gas Tank Skid ships tomorrow. Fuel pump I haven't heard anything about.
Went to Home Depot and got the right size of brass fitting which is the Watts 5/16 IDx1/8 in MIP Part Number A-200A Hose Barb. I had pulled the vent hose off of the rear diff yesterday and stuck it on and it is perfect. Drilled the hole and tapped it.
Weather is looking promising this weekend to pull the rear out.
Went to Home Depot and got the right size of brass fitting which is the Watts 5/16 IDx1/8 in MIP Part Number A-200A Hose Barb. I had pulled the vent hose off of the rear diff yesterday and stuck it on and it is perfect. Drilled the hole and tapped it.
Weather is looking promising this weekend to pull the rear out.
So I am about to take the plunge we are supposed to be at 6-7*C this weekend and we had about 2 inches snow last night but it should disappear today. I want to make sure I got this right.
When I put the axle under the jeep to put the mounts on obviously the intent is to have the pinion pointing about 2* lower than the TC Output. That is done by adjusting the UCAs. I figure I will leave the uppers where they are now as the diff was about 15*. Once that is tacked on I can then pull it out (hehe) and tack on the rest. At that point, I put it back under and set the LCAs. For those I want it more or less in the middle of the wheelwell and to jack up the diff to full bump to ensure it doesn't hit the gas tank skid. Correct? Now to do all this I measured the distance the frame is from the driveway on each side right in front of the LCA brackets and am planning on putting it at that height.
Does the above sound right and since I only have about 3" lift does it really need to be at ride height to get the UCA angles or does it matter? Like if i jack it up another 4-6 inches will it make a big difference or is there some formula to compensate for the difference (no one told me there would be math!!
When I put the axle under the jeep to put the mounts on obviously the intent is to have the pinion pointing about 2* lower than the TC Output. That is done by adjusting the UCAs. I figure I will leave the uppers where they are now as the diff was about 15*. Once that is tacked on I can then pull it out (hehe) and tack on the rest. At that point, I put it back under and set the LCAs. For those I want it more or less in the middle of the wheelwell and to jack up the diff to full bump to ensure it doesn't hit the gas tank skid. Correct? Now to do all this I measured the distance the frame is from the driveway on each side right in front of the LCA brackets and am planning on putting it at that height.
Does the above sound right and since I only have about 3" lift does it really need to be at ride height to get the UCA angles or does it matter? Like if i jack it up another 4-6 inches will it make a big difference or is there some formula to compensate for the difference (no one told me there would be math!!
How "right" do you want it to be? For all of the time you've spent, I'd put it at ride height to figure the angles. That being said, if you really want to start drawing out scale arcs of travel and such, I'm sure you can figure out the correct angle at any height.
I'd just tack both uppers and lowers in "close", move it through the range of motion, and if it all moves smoothly, call it done.
I'd just tack both uppers and lowers in "close", move it through the range of motion, and if it all moves smoothly, call it done.
Meh, I'm only a web wheeler so I'm always overthinking things :flipoff: