Probably a stupidly easy question but when I pull my tank there is about a half a tank of gas in it. I was thinking of siphoning some out and putting it my Liberty to reduce the amount in it but the question I have is while it is out, what can I do/use to seal it up. It is going to be sitting in my garage for up to a week or two and I would rather not have fumes lingering around.
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My "Big Baby" Axle Swap thread
- Thread starter 2Greys
- Start date
Not super familiar with the TJ tank - if you aren't opening up the tank proper (pulling the fuel pump right now), can you not loop a piece of hose from the feed to the return line to seal it up? For the fill tube, I'd just jamb a rag in a plastic bag (to prevent any lint or such from the rag dropping in) and stuff it in.
That's a great idea! Isn't there a third for the evap canister (don't know haven't looked to hard at it)?
For the fill tube I was just going to leave the fill cap on. Still thinking of siphoning it for when I put it back in to make it lighter. Gas seems to be ok as I have started it up a couple of times over the winter.
For the fill tube I was just going to leave the fill cap on. Still thinking of siphoning it for when I put it back in to make it lighter. Gas seems to be ok as I have started it up a couple of times over the winter.
All tacked together
Tomorrow and Saturday are forcasting rain so I will be looking at getting it back under on Sunday to hook everything up and see if any tweaking is needed. To be honest I think the only I will get out of it is a sore back. Crikie it is heavy now.
I would put away the snow shovel but I don't want to jinx it.
Tomorrow and Saturday are forcasting rain so I will be looking at getting it back under on Sunday to hook everything up and see if any tweaking is needed. To be honest I think the only I will get out of it is a sore back. Crikie it is heavy now.
I would put away the snow shovel but I don't want to jinx it.
Noticed a mistake they had labeled the LCA brackets backwards. The instructions say to place them point toward the center which make sense but N was supposed to be on the passenger side. If I has done that it would have been pointing out. Ordered the new brackets from Rusty's which reading Jeepforum makes me nervous as a lot of people have had issues with their stuff but no real choices and how can they screw them up. Should get them on the 9th. Sunday I will be putting it back under to confirm everything is good and then start the welding. Also I will be at that point jacking up the rear even higher to get ready for pulling the tank and easier access to the frame.
Lol! Nicely done Chris. Looking awesome
Dragged it outside and put it underneath and made sure I had adequate clearance between exhaust and gas tank and it all was nice.
Lots of clearance (well the minimum is 1/4" between the gas tank and diff cover). I will probably have even more when I get the Savvy Gas Tank Skid on. My concern regarding the truss hitting the exhaust ends up being nothing as the coil plate hits the bump stop before it.
Next step is weld it all together and plumb and paint it. I also checked with the new flexible brake line if I had to figure out where to attach it and looks like it is pretty flexible (pun not intended) on placement. I think it is because the truss makes it closer to the frame so less line is needed.
Right now the big issue I will have is welding on the top of the new bracket on the passenger side since the muffler is in the way. I think I can move the muffler out of the way otherwise I may end up just cutting it off and reattaching it.
Lots of clearance (well the minimum is 1/4" between the gas tank and diff cover). I will probably have even more when I get the Savvy Gas Tank Skid on. My concern regarding the truss hitting the exhaust ends up being nothing as the coil plate hits the bump stop before it.
Next step is weld it all together and plumb and paint it. I also checked with the new flexible brake line if I had to figure out where to attach it and looks like it is pretty flexible (pun not intended) on placement. I think it is because the truss makes it closer to the frame so less line is needed.
Right now the big issue I will have is welding on the top of the new bracket on the passenger side since the muffler is in the way. I think I can move the muffler out of the way otherwise I may end up just cutting it off and reattaching it.
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Looking good!
Last night I burned on the Truss Bridge and got most of the brake plumbing set up. I say most as the brake line I ordered from ECGS for the Driver side was too short. The kit I ordered from them came with the soft lines, mounts and two hard lines that were already set up and should have been long enough. I looked back at my order and it said I had selected the Artec option, I then looked at the invoice and it doesn't mention it. So I think they sent me the two lines for the standard bracketry which has the driver one about 6" too short. I emailed them to see if they will send me a new line but if not, does anyone have the stuff to make one? I can figure out how long I need and I can use the nuts off the old line.
For the rear axle I am in a holding pattern until I get the new JJ for the track bar as well as get the rear brackets repaired. The new ones are showing up tomorrow. Might look tonight if it dries out enough to drop the gas tank. We shall see..
For the rear axle I am in a holding pattern until I get the new JJ for the track bar as well as get the rear brackets repaired. The new ones are showing up tomorrow. Might look tonight if it dries out enough to drop the gas tank. We shall see..
I hear No Limits carries stainless braided lines.
Hard line is stocked everywhere. I have a few tube benders but don't have a double flare tool.
Just talked to them. I should have been sent an 18" and was sent 11". They are sending me a new one today and there is no rush right now since I still need the new JJ for the trackbar and still need to replace my rear brackets.
Hoping tonight that I may be able to drop the gas tank or at least get a start on it.
Hoping tonight that I may be able to drop the gas tank or at least get a start on it.
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Pulled the gas tank and that was easier than expected. I was expecting the nuts to be bad.
The hard part was getting the liner out. I had picked up a set of cheap interior removal tools when I had to change the rear wiper motor on my liberty which made it a piece of cake. After depressurizing (only needed to do steps 1-4 from the FSM). Once that was done the 7 bolts (4 on the rear and 3 on the front came out fine. I had a jack with a 1x16 board that was about 30" long underneath to give some kind of stability. I got it down but with the floor jack, the board, and the tank it was too tall. I finangled it down onto the ground and pulled it out and crab walked it into the garage. I wrapped the fuel line and evap line (well the remains of it as it seems to have corroded away (or is that the return? need to look that up) ) in a rag and then stuffed that into a ziplock bag and then duct-taped it shut. No idea if that is good enough...
The hard part was getting the liner out. I had picked up a set of cheap interior removal tools when I had to change the rear wiper motor on my liberty which made it a piece of cake. After depressurizing (only needed to do steps 1-4 from the FSM). Once that was done the 7 bolts (4 on the rear and 3 on the front came out fine. I had a jack with a 1x16 board that was about 30" long underneath to give some kind of stability. I got it down but with the floor jack, the board, and the tank it was too tall. I finangled it down onto the ground and pulled it out and crab walked it into the garage. I wrapped the fuel line and evap line (well the remains of it as it seems to have corroded away (or is that the return? need to look that up) ) in a rag and then stuffed that into a ziplock bag and then duct-taped it shut. No idea if that is good enough...
Having done tank swaps a couple of times, I recommend draining it before reinstall. It's a bit of a pain to get the filler neck lined up, so it's easier if the tank is empty.