Logan redneck/backyard/halffast build...

Logan

apparently the prezident
Club Member
Big thanks to everyone who helped me. especially Baja and Mlorint!!!
Here is how it did sit 1 month ago....
Add a leaf
torsion bar crank
33x12.5x15 Baja claws





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Logan

apparently the prezident
Club Member
So... i think I now know why I had sooo many steering issues...



Both sides looked this bad. ill grind, weld, and plate them eventually... For now, just drill holes at the end of all the cracks and weld them.



On a better note, rear axle is in!!!





U-bolt eliminators for the win!!!




Spare parts:





And front axle teasing me...


 

Logan

apparently the prezident
Club Member





U-bolt eliminators for the front, and the rear bushing/bracket for the front leafs.

 

Logan

apparently the prezident
Club Member
So...We were getting a really bad windstorm one week... So here was the solution todond down the car port...lol






And S10 steering box out, safari box in...




Then a few days later, woke up to work on it and got a pleasant surprise outside...

 

Logan

apparently the prezident
Club Member
And then I needed to throw on my 33's... and well... I dislike my high lift jack right now...






7 fractures on that bone... now on oxy-codone for a few days. 7+weeks to fully heal...

But, I got them done...








Now all thats left is, 3" rear shackles, np-231 t-case, Cherokee cardan (cv) for rear drive shaft(cheaper the lengthening drive shaft until I do a slip yoke eliminator), manual 4x4 shift lever, modify y pipe & tranny cross member for front drive shaft, measure & find front drive shaft.
I have im guessing $1700 into it, $1000 on the axles alone. Maybe another $100 in parts to get it all finished.
 

Farm Boy

Bought the Farm
Looking good, don't forget to gusset the hell out of everything.

When I swapped the '78 FS Bronco 44 into my '95 GMC 1/2 ton, I used the stock front DS from the donor truck ('92 light duty 3/4 ton GMC) and it bolted up, no problems -- Might you just need a conversion U-joint???

You are going to love being rid of the stupid IFS
 

Logan

apparently the prezident
Club Member
Im going to measure a bunch of front d.s's at the wreckers when I go friday for some random stuff. I think I am also going to delete all the abs stuff (not like im using it), and go with an earlier blazer master cyl. Then all have lots of room for a snorkel...
I did gusset the rear mount, still need to do the front.
I was having one hell of a time to get good welds. It would be going good, the bam, shitty. Then I ran out of wire doing the gussets, so I decided to go .035 instead of .030. Fixed all my problems.
When the 4x4 is working, im going to go play down a small trail near here, come back, and thoroughly go over all my welds. So far from just driving around, the are all holding.
 
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Z

ZR2Blazer

Guest
Looks nice Logan. The front drive shaft should be easy to find, is the T-case the HD or just the standard 231? Also keep those torsion bars around they work great as pry bars,
 

Logan

apparently the prezident
Club Member
Its out of an 89, so it shhould be the HD, but I dont think it is. Just says np-231. Im going to use it til I get an HD one. Do you remember the differences? I cant remember...
 
Z

ZR2Blazer

Guest
1.50 chain or 1.25 and a 6 gear planetary instead of the 5, basically a NP-241 tossed into a 231 case. I'm almost positive that you can buy a 241 and put all the parts into your 231. But then again some 231 are HD and are not marked. You might of got lucky.
 
R

Root Moose

Guest
You might be able to swap in a NV241 complete just short of swapping the input shaft. If you buy a NV241 to swap the parts into the NV231 try that first before taking the whole thing apart.

NV231HD has the wider chain but I'm not certain on the number of planetary gears. Maybe?
 
Z

ZR2Blazer

Guest
Its a New Process not the jeep stuff. The NP 241 has passenger drop and has 6 bolts mounting it to the trans where the 231 has 5, but you can take the mount off the 231 and put it on the 241 then bolt it up to a 4L60E
 

dwcjwerfner

Well-known member
Club Member
Now all thats left is, 3" rear shackles, np-231 t-case, Cherokee cardan (cv) for rear drive shaft(cheaper the lengthening drive shaft until I do a slip yoke eliminator), .

Just as a clarification does a cardan or actually double cardan not refer to the double u-joint "constant velocity" joint? If so those never came on the rear of an XJ, only on the front and they have a "proper" coupling for a yoke so I don't think you are going to be able to bolt up to your slip yoke setup anyway, I may be wrong but I see you are looking to buy one and I don't think it will work for you in it's factory configuration. That is part of the reason I went to a D300 as then a double cardan is a bolt in and I didn't have to spend that money on the slip-yoke eliminator for a chain drive t-case. I am not saying that is not the way to go and I might be wrong but you might want to verify this, somebody correct me if I am wrong.

Dwayne
 
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