New Process and New Venture are the same thing...the company just changed it's name along the line.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/New_Process
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Logan redneck/backyard/halffast build...
- Thread starter Logan
- Start date
New Process and New Venture are the same thing...the company just changed it's name along the line.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/New_Process
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DoctorPhate
Guest
The rear has a standard slip yoke with a single u joint on each end. it was like this for all models and years. The person who told you this was confused, they most likely bought one from someone that had a front ds in the rear and a SYE or hack n tap in it.
Speaking of which, you can do that, hack n tap from RE is 100$ and a front DS in the rear.
Speaking of which, you can do that, hack n tap from RE is 100$ and a front DS in the rear.
wtf is that? To get my d.s. lenghtand with a new tube, and u-jointsis only $100-150. I think ill just go that route. I was hoping for a cheaper solution for now, untill I finish everything else.
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DoctorPhate
Guest
Hack n tap is basically an SYE. This way you can upgrade to SYE right away.
Ill count it in a little bit. Ok...
I have the stock 1998 XJ steering assembly. The tie rod that goes from the right knuckle to the pitman arm, and the tie rod that goes to the left knuckle connects to it. I need one about an inch shorter. Are the yj.s shorter, or should I cut it, and sleeve it to the length I want???
I have the stock 1998 XJ steering assembly. The tie rod that goes from the right knuckle to the pitman arm, and the tie rod that goes to the left knuckle connects to it. I need one about an inch shorter. Are the yj.s shorter, or should I cut it, and sleeve it to the length I want???
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DoctorPhate
Guest
cut and sleeve, its just easier whether the YJ is shorter or not. If you got it, use it. Let me know if you need help with anything, I'm off most of next week too.
Mines 27 spline. Can I use a carden without sye? if not ill get the driveshaft done next weekend.
Farm Boy
Bought the Farm
Using the DC drive shaft or not is dependant on the pinion angle -- or the pinion angle depends on the driveshaft -- depends if you are a chicken or egg kind of guy.
If you have standard u-joints at each end of the shaft, you want the pinion angle and the rear output of the tcase to be euqal and opposite of eachother (paralell when viewed from the side) This is so that the u-joints cancel each other out to eliminate vibes caused by the fact that there are minor but distinct changes in speed as the u-joint rotates at an angle.
If using a DC shaft you want the pinion pointing directly at the rear output so the standard u-joint at the diff has no angle to it while at ride height. The DC joint isn't affected by the speed changes like a single u-joint is and is designed to handle all of the angle (within reason) that you'll need at ride height.
The SYE is good for a few reasons: 1) If you blow a rear DS on the trail, you can remove it and continue in front drive without pissing all the fluid out of the tcase. 2) You have the ability to have a longer ds, usually important on a SWB vehicle. 3) A slip shaft is much more durable and easier to maintain on a trail rig than a slip yolk.
:beer:
If you have standard u-joints at each end of the shaft, you want the pinion angle and the rear output of the tcase to be euqal and opposite of eachother (paralell when viewed from the side) This is so that the u-joints cancel each other out to eliminate vibes caused by the fact that there are minor but distinct changes in speed as the u-joint rotates at an angle.
If using a DC shaft you want the pinion pointing directly at the rear output so the standard u-joint at the diff has no angle to it while at ride height. The DC joint isn't affected by the speed changes like a single u-joint is and is designed to handle all of the angle (within reason) that you'll need at ride height.
The SYE is good for a few reasons: 1) If you blow a rear DS on the trail, you can remove it and continue in front drive without pissing all the fluid out of the tcase. 2) You have the ability to have a longer ds, usually important on a SWB vehicle. 3) A slip shaft is much more durable and easier to maintain on a trail rig than a slip yolk.
:beer:
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So anyone have a cardan lying around???
But I don't understand how you are going to attach it to a NP231?? And those usually go for at least $100 out of an XJ as I think they are close to a bolt in for TJ's.....Scott knows those details. I have some, and depending on the length you need I have cut ones, but I am not sure what I want to sell if any.
dj
I just need the piece that links the shaft to the flange. Pretty much jest to lengthen the drive shaft 2-3" enough to finish lifting the rear. Im eventually getting a sye. But I need to do more research on it. Seems that everything converts it to a dodge speed gear. I have the electric speedo, so I am not sure what all I have to do. Maybe ill go pull one off at union. One of the guys has been giving me amazing deals for my project.
I dont know if im just misunderstanding, or not wording it right.
I dont know if im just misunderstanding, or not wording it right.
Baja
Well-known member
Ya that won't work on the rear of a 231 without a SYE or a hack and tap. Yes the shaft you showed comes in the front of XJ's and they go for 100 a piece. I have one but I don't want to sell it as I am going to make a spare rear shaft for my jeep. (I have a dana 300 so it works for me).
Unless the chevy 231's came with a double cardegan rear. That I don't know.
Unless the chevy 231's came with a double cardegan rear. That I don't know.
AH HA!!! dont know what I typed into google last time...
http://www.angelfire.com/nc3/84jeepxj/sye.html
http://www.angelfire.com/nc3/84jeepxj/sye.html
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DoctorPhate
Guest
You're looking to put the Slip yoke on the end right logan? I dont think it would be stable if you did. Dont ask me why I just feel like its right. lol if it works though you may have just saved a lot of people a lot of money.