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Build Project Avalanche
- Thread starter bradleyfitz
- Start date
I went with flat centers as that is what I currently had ... at 4" bs. Pressed centers would have been 3.5" bs. With the narrower wheel and tire, it is going to suck in my width a bit. I was at 90" track width with the boggers and high impact wheels.
I probably would have been fine with pressed center's and 3.5", but I saw no reason to change. I haven't read of any of the rockwell guys having problems with the flat centers.
I probably would have been fine with pressed center's and 3.5", but I saw no reason to change. I haven't read of any of the rockwell guys having problems with the flat centers.
Yeah, Andrew mentioned that to me the other day. I think the flat centers will be fine, but time will tell I guess. At least I have a spare! ::beer::
Seems I forgot to post assembled wheel pics 
Front half painted:
Back half:
The center installed. These were easier to install than I was led to believe. Basically, we stood it up vertical in the wheel opening, soaped it up, placed both feet in the wheel center, and gave it a good hop. The centers dropped in real easy. We then just kicked the top half until it was in.
Next to the warn out 44" bogger.
Front mounted, 0 psi:
Love the wheels, hate the options I chose. I keep meaning to send TWF a note not to sell the wicked ring to any rockwell guy getting 4" backspacing. If you notice, there is not very much room between the ring and the hub. There is barely enough room to get your hand between them... the socket had to be fed in from the backside of the wheel in order to mount the wheels. I will be getting the rings cut in the spring. Oh well.
Front half painted:
Back half:
The center installed. These were easier to install than I was led to believe. Basically, we stood it up vertical in the wheel opening, soaped it up, placed both feet in the wheel center, and gave it a good hop. The centers dropped in real easy. We then just kicked the top half until it was in.
Next to the warn out 44" bogger.
Front mounted, 0 psi:
Love the wheels, hate the options I chose. I keep meaning to send TWF a note not to sell the wicked ring to any rockwell guy getting 4" backspacing. If you notice, there is not very much room between the ring and the hub. There is barely enough room to get your hand between them... the socket had to be fed in from the backside of the wheel in order to mount the wheels. I will be getting the rings cut in the spring. Oh well.
Shot of how much clearance my outer ring had:
I took my outer wheels over to Mike and he cut them down for me. This was the other style I was going to choose instead of the fire rings originally, so no big deal.
Most of my maintenance is done. All four corners were broken down a couple of weeks ago. Props to Tim and Andrew for helping hands. Two of the hubs had water in them... so I will be replacing the inner wheel bearing seal on the hub. I also ordered new axle seals as there is a fair bit of gear oil in the knuckles. I may not replace those seals though, as the gear oil lubricates the u-joint real nice.
Discovered an interesting tidbit yesterday. My wheels are not clearing the shoulder of the wheel studs... so the wheels are not mounting flush against the hub flange and are actually about 1/4" out, resting on the studs. I have an email into TWF with a WTF question. Not sure at this point if I have an oddball set of studs or if they cut the centers wrong.
Last weekend I did my trailer maintenance for the spring. Just a friendly reminder for everyone to break down their wheels and check their brakes and bearings before that first big trip... I discovered a sheered adjuster bolt on one of my drums.
I took my outer wheels over to Mike and he cut them down for me. This was the other style I was going to choose instead of the fire rings originally, so no big deal.
Most of my maintenance is done. All four corners were broken down a couple of weeks ago. Props to Tim and Andrew for helping hands. Two of the hubs had water in them... so I will be replacing the inner wheel bearing seal on the hub. I also ordered new axle seals as there is a fair bit of gear oil in the knuckles. I may not replace those seals though, as the gear oil lubricates the u-joint real nice.
Discovered an interesting tidbit yesterday. My wheels are not clearing the shoulder of the wheel studs... so the wheels are not mounting flush against the hub flange and are actually about 1/4" out, resting on the studs. I have an email into TWF with a WTF question. Not sure at this point if I have an oddball set of studs or if they cut the centers wrong.
Last weekend I did my trailer maintenance for the spring. Just a friendly reminder for everyone to break down their wheels and check their brakes and bearings before that first big trip... I discovered a sheered adjuster bolt on one of my drums.
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No, I am not missing anything. I'm working with Andy to try to figure out what is going on here. He says they have always machined the holes to 0.800, which is what my wheels are. The stud diameter at the knurl / shoulder is about 0.9... so far Andy has managed to dig up a picture of TWO different types of rockwell studs. One has a much shorter shoulder than the other. We have also seen a hub where the flange also appears to be thicker than mine.
Right now we are trying to figure out the discrepancies. One of three things will come out of this, I am sure. I will either replace all the studs with the shorter version, drill / remachine the wheels to accept the shoulder, or have Mike cut me a spacer. I was able to find a corresponding Napa part number for rockwell wheel studs, but since there are two stud types, I am not sure which one it is. I will be calling Keith later and hopefully the book will have details. Online prices for studs are in the $5 range, so replacing all of them with a shorter wheel stud would unfortunately be upwards of $150.
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Shot of how far the shoulder sticks out of the flange on my hubs:
Minor tech, but might be useful to someone. I've had good success with this method for removing broken bolts... I've never had an "easy out" work.
One of my hubs has a broken 1/2" bolt (top right).
Pick a smaller size bolt in order to extract the broken bolt, in my case a 3/8" will do just fine. Drill a hole smaller than 3/8" in the center off the broken bolt and then hammer the 3/8" bolt into the hole. Bust out your ratchet and back out the 3/8" bolt... the broken 1/2" should come out with it.
One of my hubs has a broken 1/2" bolt (top right).
Pick a smaller size bolt in order to extract the broken bolt, in my case a 3/8" will do just fine. Drill a hole smaller than 3/8" in the center off the broken bolt and then hammer the 3/8" bolt into the hole. Bust out your ratchet and back out the 3/8" bolt... the broken 1/2" should come out with it.
I considered that, but I was concerned with two things.
1) weakening the stud.
2) the overall shoulder length before the threads is likely going to be too long. It may not be, I would have to measure carefully
1) weakening the stud.
2) the overall shoulder length before the threads is likely going to be too long. It may not be, I would have to measure carefully