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PROJECT!!! Buggy Build
- Thread starter Farm Boy
- Start date
Sorry, I was using FireFox, with Internet Explorer, Right click and select properties, then in the window that comes up copy the part beside Address/URL
Something like this:
"http://ovo.ca/gallery2/d/33295-4/rings.JPG"
Then put it in the image tag:
Something like this:
"http://ovo.ca/gallery2/d/33295-4/rings.JPG"
Then put it in the image tag:
Farm Boy
Bought the Farm
So I got looking around in the shed and came up with an idea....
Why not take the rear axle from the buggy and put it in this truck?
For about 100 bucks I'll have links, coils, wider axle & disk brakes. All that I'm missing to do this is some brackets for the frame end of the links, upper coil mounts and some brake lines.
Add to this that my front springs (especially the drivers) aren't the greatest. I'll be able to swap the rear springs to the front (later) but might as well do the links now before the bed gets re-mounted.
Seemed like a hell of an idea so out came the grinder/cutoff wheels...
Why not take the rear axle from the buggy and put it in this truck?
For about 100 bucks I'll have links, coils, wider axle & disk brakes. All that I'm missing to do this is some brackets for the frame end of the links, upper coil mounts and some brake lines.
Add to this that my front springs (especially the drivers) aren't the greatest. I'll be able to swap the rear springs to the front (later) but might as well do the links now before the bed gets re-mounted.
Seemed like a hell of an idea so out came the grinder/cutoff wheels...
Farm Boy
Bought the Farm
Farm Boy
Bought the Farm
By the time I left the shop yesterday I had the new axle in place and the lower links in.
I will be adding some extra bracing to the front mounts, I know they look a bit cheezy right now. Just working with what is lying around the shop. I'll most likely build a new crossmember sooner than later.
I will be adding some extra bracing to the front mounts, I know they look a bit cheezy right now. Just working with what is lying around the shop. I'll most likely build a new crossmember sooner than later.
Farm Boy
Bought the Farm
I'm looking for some input for my upper link(s). Two options I'm condering are:
and this
My biggest question is: Do the lower links, on their own, provide enough latteral stability that I can get away without any more triangulation (or a panhard bar)?
39.5" separation at the axle and 16" at the frame, 42" link length.
If I can mount the upper link straight (like the first pic), it will make remounting both the gas tank and the exhaust easier but I don't want to have to worry about lateral strenght.
If the consensus is that I need another \ I'll put the link like the second pic (in the center axle mount of course) but the exhaust will be a bit more of a challenge.
I think having /\ lowers and \/ uppers has a bit more redundancy than needed and was trying to avoid the / upper link to leave room for the gas tank other wise I'd have to mount the tank sideways in the frame and much higher.
Thoughts???
and this
My biggest question is: Do the lower links, on their own, provide enough latteral stability that I can get away without any more triangulation (or a panhard bar)?
39.5" separation at the axle and 16" at the frame, 42" link length.
If I can mount the upper link straight (like the first pic), it will make remounting both the gas tank and the exhaust easier but I don't want to have to worry about lateral strenght.
If the consensus is that I need another \ I'll put the link like the second pic (in the center axle mount of course) but the exhaust will be a bit more of a challenge.
I think having /\ lowers and \/ uppers has a bit more redundancy than needed and was trying to avoid the / upper link to leave room for the gas tank other wise I'd have to mount the tank sideways in the frame and much higher.
Thoughts???
Also, what you triangulate effects your roll axis.. Triangulating both the uppers and lowers, lowers your roll axis making the rig more stable..
More rules of thumb are:
Make your links as long as possible and as parallel to the ground as possible.
Make your uppers about 70-75% the length of your lowers.
Vertical separation (I forget the exact rule here but it is supposed to be a % of the tire size, I think something like 1/3)
I know what you are saying about the gas tank though, unless you are going to run the tank in the bed or go with a fuel cell, you will have to go with a 3-link and panhard to keep the tank in the stock location.
More rules of thumb are:
Make your links as long as possible and as parallel to the ground as possible.
Make your uppers about 70-75% the length of your lowers.
Vertical separation (I forget the exact rule here but it is supposed to be a % of the tire size, I think something like 1/3)
I know what you are saying about the gas tank though, unless you are going to run the tank in the bed or go with a fuel cell, you will have to go with a 3-link and panhard to keep the tank in the stock location.
Farm Boy
Bought the Farm
The gas tank was being raised 3-4" as it was so I guess I'll just mount it sideways.
Lower links are 42" so then the uppers then should be around 30" to be 70-75%. Lower links were determined by the stock location axle and the stock location crossmember. They also nicely follow the driveshaft for added protection.
Upper links will have adjustment built in at the frame end. Hopefully they will be nearly flat at the lowest point.
Yes John, I'll be modifying the center mount for double shear but do you really think a 3/4" Grade 8 bolt wouldn't hold up?
Lower links are 42" so then the uppers then should be around 30" to be 70-75%. Lower links were determined by the stock location axle and the stock location crossmember. They also nicely follow the driveshaft for added protection.
Upper links will have adjustment built in at the frame end. Hopefully they will be nearly flat at the lowest point.
Yes John, I'll be modifying the center mount for double shear but do you really think a 3/4" Grade 8 bolt wouldn't hold up?
Farm Boy
Bought the Farm
I just did a mock-up with some shelf braces I have here and I can easily see why the first idea won't work now that I try it, I knew something didn't seem right about it.
The link arrangement in the second pic works for stability in my test. I understand it might not be the "best" for roll axis, anti-squat, rear steer, blah, blah, blah but I ain't driving a computer. Stability, strength and ease of building are my main concerns.
In my testing and my knowledge of geomety in a typical double triangulated 4 link, one of the links is redudnant for locating puroses. Will it be really that bad of an idea to eliminate the second upper link?
Farm Boy
Bought the Farm
Hadn't thought of it that way but it makes sence to me. Kept thinking it was like a wall, one diagonal stops it from twisting....
Ok, true 4 link it is.:flipoff:
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Farm Boy
Bought the Farm
Main computer is down so no pics at the moment but I got some more work done today.
I got the tires mounted, took them to the local tire shop to roll the inside bead onto the rim, well spent $30. Siliconed the beads and cranked up the 24 bolts per rim with my cordless drill and the clutch set to get them all the same (30-35 lbs for this style). WAY better than using a ratchet or impact since the clutch limited the torque for me.
One out of the 4 had a pinhole, took it apart, added more silicone re-assembled and it still leaks. I'll have to fix it next week. :banghead:
I put 8oz of AirSoft pellets in each tire for balacing.
Started a new axle mount for the upper links. I'll have 11" or 12" of vertical separation at the axle and the upper links will sit nearly flat in their lowest mounting hole.
I'll see if I can get something working tomorrow to get pics loaded.
I got the tires mounted, took them to the local tire shop to roll the inside bead onto the rim, well spent $30. Siliconed the beads and cranked up the 24 bolts per rim with my cordless drill and the clutch set to get them all the same (30-35 lbs for this style). WAY better than using a ratchet or impact since the clutch limited the torque for me.
One out of the 4 had a pinhole, took it apart, added more silicone re-assembled and it still leaks. I'll have to fix it next week. :banghead:I put 8oz of AirSoft pellets in each tire for balacing.
Started a new axle mount for the upper links. I'll have 11" or 12" of vertical separation at the axle and the upper links will sit nearly flat in their lowest mounting hole.
I'll see if I can get something working tomorrow to get pics loaded.
Farm Boy
Bought the Farm
Rims painted and ready to install tires
BEADLOCKS!!!!!
Closeup
Balance material ready
With the beadlock already installed on the outside of the rim, I flipped the tire over, pushed the inner bead in with my foot and dumped in the pellets. I then put bead sealant on the tire bead to also help as a lubercant. Carefully flipped the tire back over onto a 5 gal pail to let the weight of the tire help seat the inside bead as I aired it up.
BEADLOCKS!!!!!
Closeup
Balance material ready
With the beadlock already installed on the outside of the rim, I flipped the tire over, pushed the inner bead in with my foot and dumped in the pellets. I then put bead sealant on the tire bead to also help as a lubercant. Carefully flipped the tire back over onto a 5 gal pail to let the weight of the tire help seat the inside bead as I aired it up.
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