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Build Project Liberty - Trail/Overland Jeep Build
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Not at all my friend. They were $395 US. Which means *ouuuuuch Charlie! that really hurt!* after exchange, delivery, taxes, etc. Ended up being around $650 all told.
Trevor
Trevor
Damn that's cheap!
??? Whatchu talkin' bout Willis???
Simmer down, kids! lol
Yeah $650 for the UCAs, $1250 for 5x 32s.
Took the heep up to Govan Lake, site 3. Nice site, nice lake, didn't see a soul other than one solo-canoer. Yesterday morning we had big cup of coffee nice and early, then took the canoe out to just *float*. We have never heard the complete 'silence' of nature. Not even a distant plane or ATV. Pretty soul-feeding!!
Man, I didn't realize what a difference the tires would make off-road. It just rolls over everything now. Smooth smooth smooth even at just ~25 psi. We were alone, so we didn't try them out on anything cool. I'll have to take them out on a real trail run!!
On road, they are quieter than the Grabber AT2s that they replaced. Solid sidewalls, tread is not 'squishy', good feel through corners. Not harsh on small bumps either.
You can definitely feel the weight and height though. The power is certainly down and gas mileage too but not unlivable. However, I will definitely look seriously into an external can mount...
Yeah $650 for the UCAs, $1250 for 5x 32s.
Took the heep up to Govan Lake, site 3. Nice site, nice lake, didn't see a soul other than one solo-canoer. Yesterday morning we had big cup of coffee nice and early, then took the canoe out to just *float*. We have never heard the complete 'silence' of nature. Not even a distant plane or ATV. Pretty soul-feeding!!
Man, I didn't realize what a difference the tires would make off-road. It just rolls over everything now. Smooth smooth smooth even at just ~25 psi. We were alone, so we didn't try them out on anything cool. I'll have to take them out on a real trail run!!
On road, they are quieter than the Grabber AT2s that they replaced. Solid sidewalls, tread is not 'squishy', good feel through corners. Not harsh on small bumps either.
You can definitely feel the weight and height though. The power is certainly down and gas mileage too but not unlivable. However, I will definitely look seriously into an external can mount...
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Went on the OVO Crag Lake run this past weekend. I already posted up several pics on the fb page with thanks for all the help, encouragement and excellent spotting. I would not have had the cojones or experience to navigate without your help, guys!!!
I thought that I would need a pull/winch at some point, but she made it all the way up and back on her own with only a minor reshaping on the psgr side rear door from a tight pinch. Lots of clearance and tire grip was great from the ATMs even on slick rock and slick roots. Felt pretty good to get out there and git'er durdy.
Only a couple breaks on the trail, but not me.
Looking forward to more.
I thought that I would need a pull/winch at some point, but she made it all the way up and back on her own with only a minor reshaping on the psgr side rear door from a tight pinch.
Lots of clearance and tire grip was great from the ATMs even on slick rock and slick roots. Felt pretty good to get out there and git'er durdy. Only a couple breaks on the trail, but not me.
Looking forward to more.
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Hey Kunker, the E-load ATMs are good so far...btw what is your 'TB'?
I had no issue at Crag where for most of the time I ran them at 18psi (were you there? thought you were wearing a jeepin shirt with 'kunker' on it?) and on road they are great - I run them around 35 psi. They are quiet on road.
Thanks to [MENTION=62]Mlorint[/MENTION] I have new fancy rockers with steps. They aren't true rock rails, more of a structural replacement but 'they could take a tap' as Mike said.
Teaser shot in the garage
Teaser shot in the garage
Couple more. Loving them so far.
Installed some spacers behind the top two mounting points of the spare carrier cradle so that the upwards-swinging rear window clears the tire. Works well. Probably will switch out massive stack of washers with rubber bushings sometime soon so the nuts don't work their way loose as quickly.
I've been trying to diagnose a rear wiper motor issue (doesn't work at all), so I swapped out the motor with a good one, still cooked. Argh - suspecting the switch which was already on order because of flickering interior lights. I guess electrical problems are a Jeep specialty.
I also had it e-tested and it passed...which surprised me since I have 2 codes that reoccur: EVAP solenoid and slow O2 code. Good for me though.
I've been trying to diagnose a rear wiper motor issue (doesn't work at all), so I swapped out the motor with a good one, still cooked. Argh - suspecting the switch which was already on order because of flickering interior lights. I guess electrical problems are a Jeep specialty.
I also had it e-tested and it passed...which surprised me since I have 2 codes that reoccur: EVAP solenoid and slow O2 code. Good for me though.
Installed some spacers behind the top two mounting points of the spare carrier cradle so that the upwards-swinging rear window clears the tire. Works well. Probably will switch out massive stack of washers with rubber bushings sometime soon so the nuts don't work their way loose as quickly.
I've been trying to diagnose a rear wiper motor issue (doesn't work at all), so I swapped out the motor with a good one, still cooked. Argh - suspecting the switch which was already on order because of flickering interior lights. I guess electrical problems are a Jeep specialty.
I also had it e-tested and it passed...which surprised me since I have 2 codes that reoccur: EVAP solenoid and slow O2 code. Good for me though.
Had the rear wiper motor die twice on mine and never replaced it the second time. Need some winter steelies? I will let you have them for cheap
Damn what a PITA. It was nice having a wiper...I'll have to pretend I'm driving a cargo van if the switch doesn't do it.
Naw, I'm good, thanks though. The Kooks are doing well all year round it seems and I don't have another set of tires.
I'm surprised you haven't sold them, maybe cross-list for TJ, XJ etc? I can't remember what else is 5x4.5 x 16
Naw, I'm good, thanks though. The Kooks are doing well all year round it seems and I don't have another set of tires.
I'm surprised you haven't sold them, maybe cross-list for TJ, XJ etc? I can't remember what else is 5x4.5 x 16
Replaced another front DS CV. Damn those things wear out too quickly ...I basically rebuild it every fall/winter. Plus they are way too fiddly. Allen key heads on the CV/TC end, and 8mm hex heads for other. There was a ton of play in the cv side, lots of rattling/chinging when moved by hand - it was just about to get 'sticky'.
With the replacement parts at only ~$55 a year, doesn't make sense going to a custom DS does it???? One of my most disliked regular wear parts on it.
I plan to install the CB antenna (4' firestick) some time this winter, but a bit wary of the load on the mounting surface as I don't have a solid piece (solid bumper) to attach it to. I thought of installing it on some of the thicker layered sheet metal just in between the driver's door and the front wheel (lower down), but I worry that the SWR will be wacked out with half of the 4 ft antenna aligned with the side of the body. About 2.5' would be above the hood opposite the radio antenna. Or, maybe I should wait and install it on the homebrew bumper...
With the replacement parts at only ~$55 a year, doesn't make sense going to a custom DS does it???? One of my most disliked regular wear parts on it.
I plan to install the CB antenna (4' firestick) some time this winter, but a bit wary of the load on the mounting surface as I don't have a solid piece (solid bumper) to attach it to. I thought of installing it on some of the thicker layered sheet metal just in between the driver's door and the front wheel (lower down), but I worry that the SWR will be wacked out with half of the 4 ft antenna aligned with the side of the body. About 2.5' would be above the hood opposite the radio antenna. Or, maybe I should wait and install it on the homebrew bumper...
At $55 a year I suspect you are getting the cheapest CV Joints. How long did the stock one last? I would expect a new stock one should last about as long. Food for thought.
Ideal placement for CB should be opposite side of the battery (so literally rear passenger corner in your case), if doing a custom bumper that would help. With the TJ you can get a small bracket that places it right over the tail light using the taillight mounting bolts to attach to and a spring mount so it will bounce (firesticks are flexible just not that flexible and whips are evil). Might be able to fab a mount that squeezes between the body and the inset tail light but I suspect you may be waiting until you have a new bumper. Also it should ideally sit a tad above the roof
Ideal placement for CB should be opposite side of the battery (so literally rear passenger corner in your case), if doing a custom bumper that would help. With the TJ you can get a small bracket that places it right over the tail light using the taillight mounting bolts to attach to and a spring mount so it will bounce (firesticks are flexible just not that flexible and whips are evil). Might be able to fab a mount that squeezes between the body and the inset tail light but I suspect you may be waiting until you have a new bumper. Also it should ideally sit a tad above the roof
Yeah, they are cheap. I have no idea how long OEM last - bought it at 170k with a bad one already. I'll ask around the lib sites.
For the cb, thanks for the tips - I didn't know about furthest from batt. I do have a pretty decent swivel bracket and an HD spring so I might just pull the light and install underneath it with some 'massaging' of the light housing.
You mean the tip should only sit a tad above? So, most of its length alongside the RR part of the body could be fine (SWR depending of course)? Mebbe I shoulda got the 3 ft.
For the cb, thanks for the tips - I didn't know about furthest from batt. I do have a pretty decent swivel bracket and an HD spring so I might just pull the light and install underneath it with some 'massaging' of the light housing.
You mean the tip should only sit a tad above? So, most of its length alongside the RR part of the body could be fine (SWR depending of course)? Mebbe I shoulda got the 3 ft.