I just drew him. Mike had to make some changes though so it would cut properly.
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PROJECT - "Truck No More"
- Thread starter aweber
- Start date
I just drew him. Mike had to make some changes though so it would cut properly.
So, to fix my sucky brakes I decided to go to a master off an 1977 1-ton Chevy and adapt it to the toy booster.
This is already detailed on Pirate so I will not go into the details.
New and old master:
Adapter Plate - Made out of 1/2" aluminum (most people make it out of two pieces of 1/4" plate steel but aluminum is easier to work with)
Total cost ~$50.00 for master, aluminum and hardware!
This is already detailed on Pirate so I will not go into the details.
New and old master:
Adapter Plate - Made out of 1/2" aluminum (most people make it out of two pieces of 1/4" plate steel but aluminum is easier to work with)
Total cost ~$50.00 for master, aluminum and hardware!
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That's looks like it's going to provide excessive braking power and I don't see any need for that, I think you are getting out of control with this build.
Shiny! :beer:
Shiny! :beer:
R
Root Moose
Guest
Cochise
Well-known member
Heretic!
Hey, he drives an XJ, you know what that's like! You make do, and everyone else with real brakes is :baby:
A deploy-able umbrella outside the driver's door is considered acceptable braking in XJs.
Or shooting your own tire out in an emergency.
R
Root Moose
Guest
Yeah, XJ brakes suck. I had to upgrade mine because I couldn't stand how bad they were - even when the Jeep was stock.
Adrian, what's the plan for the proportioning valve?
Adrian, what's the plan for the proportioning valve?
The buggy already has a Willwood Prop valve on it. (I got rid of the Toy crap long ago)
Master Mounted:
I did not like the way the steering felt with the ram mounted to the tie rod, so I did this:
Built off the hi-steer arm to run a bolt to the stock tie-rod location (drilled out to 3/4) and mounted the ram to the same bolt as the tie rod with a support going back to the additional bolt. Hopefully this will take the sloppiness out of the steering and still be strong.
Bolt bolts sleeved with 3/4" ID schedule 40 pipe.
I did not like the way the steering felt with the ram mounted to the tie rod, so I did this:
Built off the hi-steer arm to run a bolt to the stock tie-rod location (drilled out to 3/4) and mounted the ram to the same bolt as the tie rod with a support going back to the additional bolt. Hopefully this will take the sloppiness out of the steering and still be strong.
Bolt bolts sleeved with 3/4" ID schedule 40 pipe.
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D
Dirk
Guest
Seems to me as though the ram will bend the bolt.
Got the idea from here:
And they are going right to the long bolt, so it should be weaker than what I did I would think.
How much extra slop would mounting it to the tie rod add? All i can think of is an extra joint of play. Hopefully this solves it, although like Dirk, I worry about the bolt strength, but with the ram being mounted at the bottom, and the bolt being so short, it might be okay. May another blue brace between the long and short bolts above the ram if something does bend?
The only way the bolt can bend is in an arc perpendicular to the bottom brace (It could rotate in the bending motion) If I weld the bottom brace to the tubing and weld a second brace at the top of the tubing going to the tie rod hole, it would eliminate the rotation that the bottom brace could have and then eliminate the possibility of the bolt bending.
That being said, Dirk has the same problem I usually do, over building things I looked up some numbers last night. The ram comes with a 3/4" joint that is rated to 11,000 lbs - The yield strength on a grade 8 bolt is 120,000 lbs. Not to mention that the force that could bend that bolt is split up into two vectors, only about half going in the direction needed to bend the bolt and it also has to bend the tube sleeve as well. Dirk - How many lbs of force could that 2.5" ram put out?
That being said, Dirk has the same problem I usually do, over building things
I looked up some numbers last night. The ram comes with a 3/4" joint that is rated to 11,000 lbs - The yield strength on a grade 8 bolt is 120,000 lbs. Not to mention that the force that could bend that bolt is split up into two vectors, only about half going in the direction needed to bend the bolt and it also has to bend the tube sleeve as well. Dirk - How many lbs of force could that 2.5" ram put out?
Initially it was packaging. I did not want the big scoop on the front of my axle that they usually entail.
D
Dirk
Guest
Agreed.
I think something would still twist and or break. The long bolt is fine , as bending it would also mean bending the upper or lower arm. No worries about it.
The short one has the force applies several inches (3 maybe 4) from where it is being held by the upper arm. This creates a lever and would multiply the force acting on it, making it fairly easy to bend it just below the arm.
A second bracket like this should eliminated any bending stress on the bolt.
That being said, Dirk has the same problem I usually do, over building things
Whatever do you mean?
What diameter bolt? 1/2"?
Is the ram 2.5" inside diameter? How much psi?
Tensile Strength: The maximum load in tension (pulling apart) which a material can withstand before breaking or fracturing.
Yield Strength: The maximum load at which a material exhibits a specific permanent deformation
Shear Strength: The maximum load that can b supported prior to fracture, When applied at a right angle to the fastener's axis.
Assuming 1/2" grade 8:
The calculation for shear strength is root area x 60% of tensile strength, x2 for double shear. This works out to be 11,340 lbs,single shear and 22,680lbs, double shear, if the shear is through the traded portion, or 17,190lbs and 34,380lbs if through the body of the bolt.
Assuming 2.5" diameter ram and 1450psi pressure:
Area of the piston is 4.91 square inches X 1450psi = 7119.5lbs of pressure.
Not enough to shear the bolt even in single shear.
But given the force multiplying factor of the lever I mentioned earlier, I believe the bolt would bend easily.
(putting this together on my iPad was an exercise in patience and necessitated a few edits)
Oh Adrian, Connie found your windshield in the ditch today, she said she actually first saw it about a week ago whether it had been under weeds until then or somebody has cleaned the ditch recently and put it over by the fence. :beer:
D
Dirk
Guest
Tensile and yield usually refer to the stretching and pulling apart or elongating of the bolt.
I didn't find,yet, anything about resistance to bending, etc...
Being 3/4" diameter Is certainly better. I still have misgivings about the bending.
To quote that other off road site, "needs more triangulation".
I think it will bend here in that general direction.
Can you shorten the bolt? So that the 2 rod ends are touching? This would eliminate most of the bending potential.
I didn't find,yet, anything about resistance to bending, etc...
Being 3/4" diameter Is certainly better. I still have misgivings about the bending.
To quote that other off road site, "needs more triangulation".
I think it will bend here in that general direction.
Can you shorten the bolt? So that the 2 rod ends are touching? This would eliminate most of the bending potential.
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I guess I should update this after it's first real run. We went up to Rausch Creek a couple weekends ago. The buggy performed great, I beat on the axles pretty good and did not have any breakage. I did rip the ram mount off the axle. My own fault, bad welds due to me being lazy and not changing the wire in my welder when I did it. (was getting low and wire feed was fluctuating too much). I brought my welder and generator with me and was able to fix it up in the parking lot.
Good:
Front 3-link performs great, no binding, no interference with anything, and most importantly, when I get on the gas, NO wheel hop
The Dana 300 shifts great, doing front digs is effortless (I was worried about this as I heard a lot of horror stories about D300 shifting)
The PitBull tires worked much better than the SX's I had before. If you cannot climb something, just warm them up a bit and they stick much better than the SX's ever did.
Bad:
I need to make a belly pan for the truck to protect the D300 and make sliding over things better.
I need to upgrade both diff covers (No money before I went to RC) - Going to go with Barnes4WD covers including their new 13 bolt mod in the rear.
I want to install a CNC cutting brake for the rear to make front digs more seamless.
Some video here: (mostly of Brad's rig, but some of me in there as well)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-1ivxYZ6Hvw
Good:
Front 3-link performs great, no binding, no interference with anything, and most importantly, when I get on the gas, NO wheel hop
The Dana 300 shifts great, doing front digs is effortless (I was worried about this as I heard a lot of horror stories about D300 shifting)
The PitBull tires worked much better than the SX's I had before. If you cannot climb something, just warm them up a bit and they stick much better than the SX's ever did.
Bad:
I need to make a belly pan for the truck to protect the D300 and make sliding over things better.
I need to upgrade both diff covers (No money before I went to RC) - Going to go with Barnes4WD covers including their new 13 bolt mod in the rear.
I want to install a CNC cutting brake for the rear to make front digs more seamless.
Some video here: (mostly of Brad's rig, but some of me in there as well)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-1ivxYZ6Hvw