D
Dirk
Guest
Pimp!
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PROJECT - "Truck No More"
- Thread starter aweber
- Start date
Pimp!
G
Grumpy
Guest
Yeah dude....what the fuck?? Will you be ready for Big Dogs?? That's coming up soon eh?
Beadlock time. I was told to post the step by step process so here it goes:
So, I drew up the following and gave it to Mike:
He had to make some tweek's to be flippoff guy to get it to cut properly but they turned out just fine.
As you know, I am still garage free so this is the welding setup I am using:
Notice the pigtail I made to connect the welder to the 30A receptical
Welder settings:
Flux core of course (outside plus better penetration with the small welder)
So, I drew up the following and gave it to Mike:
He had to make some tweek's to be flippoff guy to get it to cut properly but they turned out just fine.
As you know, I am still garage free so this is the welding setup I am using:
Notice the pigtail I made to connect the welder to the 30A receptical
Welder settings:
Flux core of course (outside plus better penetration with the small welder)
Rims - Free + $20 for sandblasting per rim.
They are the following:
http://superswamper-direct.com/4wheelproducts/Cragar_Wheels_Nomad_I_White.144151.513737
16.5 x 9.75 - 4.75" Backspacing
We made the inner ring sit inside the lip of the rim rather than on top. I think it is better for welding. This is how I made sure it was flat and true:
Spacing and tack weld:
This is how long of a bead I would lay down before going to a different side to keep from warping:
Welded and hit with a grinder:
Finished but Un-painted product:
Total Welding time, under 2 hours - Total cost for a set of unpainted beadlocks, $300.00
They are the following:
http://superswamper-direct.com/4wheelproducts/Cragar_Wheels_Nomad_I_White.144151.513737
16.5 x 9.75 - 4.75" Backspacing
We made the inner ring sit inside the lip of the rim rather than on top. I think it is better for welding. This is how I made sure it was flat and true:
Spacing and tack weld:
This is how long of a bead I would lay down before going to a different side to keep from warping:
Welded and hit with a grinder:
Finished but Un-painted product:
Total Welding time, under 2 hours - Total cost for a set of unpainted beadlocks, $300.00
D
Dirk
Guest
:flipoff:Sweet
I could see that. I am lazy though
I do plan on using tire bead sealer when I assemble everything though. Flux core sucks in general for this as it likes to leave lots of pin holes in the weld.
On with the beadlocks:
Some people use 90 Deg valve stems in the stock location. After spending a couple days going to EVERY tire shop in Perth, including Heavy truck and NAPA, I could not find any. My philosophy has always been to make the buggy easy to service/repair, so since the 90's were not easy to find I went the extra step and re located the valve stems so I can use regular ones.
I initially tried welding a washer over them first but came to the conclusion that it was just as easy to just fill the entire hole with weld:
Then drilled new holes and installed the valve stems:
FYI - Valve stem holes need to be drilled to .625
This is the holy grail of the tire world:
I put a generous amount on the welds, it also makes it easier to slip the bead onto the rim (slippery stuff until it dries) Many bolts later and a bunch of tightening:
I filled the tire to 25 lbs of air and now going to let it sit overnight to see if it has any leaks.
Some people use 90 Deg valve stems in the stock location. After spending a couple days going to EVERY tire shop in Perth, including Heavy truck and NAPA, I could not find any. My philosophy has always been to make the buggy easy to service/repair, so since the 90's were not easy to find I went the extra step and re located the valve stems so I can use regular ones.
I initially tried welding a washer over them first but came to the conclusion that it was just as easy to just fill the entire hole with weld:
Then drilled new holes and installed the valve stems:
FYI - Valve stem holes need to be drilled to .625
This is the holy grail of the tire world:
I put a generous amount on the welds, it also makes it easier to slip the bead onto the rim (slippery stuff until it dries) Many bolts later and a bunch of tightening:
I filled the tire to 25 lbs of air and now going to let it sit overnight to see if it has any leaks.
D
DoctorPhate
Guest
Awesome write up,
I have a question about bead locks though, do they not become significantly more difficult to balance? Or does the use of BBs to balance help with that?
I have a question about bead locks though, do they not become significantly more difficult to balance? Or does the use of BBs to balance help with that?
I ran 36" SX's on the street with DIY beadlocks. I used BB's in the tires for balancing and it was fine. SX's are a notoriously bad tire for being out of round and I had that truck up to 140 Kph.
See here for how many ounces to put in your tire: (a good tip is to put the BB's in a plastic bag when you assemble the tire then after some driving the bag will disintegrate and the bb's will be loose)
http://www.innovativebalancing.com/BigTirechart.htm
I'm not going to bother though, with 42's I don't see the point.
mucovich
Till Valhalla!
x2 i don't bother balancing mine - of course i don't drive mine on the street either.
Got the brakes all done and other misc stuff so I could finally drive it off the trailer.
Had to put the one tire I have assembled on it:
Just rear drive shaft and D300 shifters to do (plus some misc stuff like mount the coil over reservoirs, etc) and I am done :glasses:
Had to put the one tire I have assembled on it:
Just rear drive shaft and D300 shifters to do (plus some misc stuff like mount the coil over reservoirs, etc) and I am done :glasses:
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Got the rear d-shaft done: (Sorry for crappy phone pics)
I moved the axle back far enough that the Toy tubing was too short so I went with 3" x .120 wall DOM and put it over top the Toy sized tube. Also had the spline flange machined down to fit the new DOM. Then I tacked it together under the truck and with a dial indicator and a rubber hammer I got it very close to true.
I moved the axle back far enough that the Toy tubing was too short so I went with 3" x .120 wall DOM and put it over top the Toy sized tube. Also had the spline flange machined down to fit the new DOM. Then I tacked it together under the truck and with a dial indicator and a rubber hammer I got it very close to true.
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Sexy