Project -XJ Evolution

dwcjwerfner

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Club Member
Windshield off:



New windshield frame in place:





Just like that, well several hours of just like that.
:beer:
 

dwcjwerfner

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Club Member
I can't imagine I will have anything done by SF but the plan is safety glass inside it's own frame hinged and removable.
 
S

Steve B

Guest
He'll probably just tie Connie up there, and then get mad at her for being in his way :),,,,,,,your nuts by the way buddy,,,you kind of remind me of Trixie.
 

Farm Boy

Bought the Farm


It all makes sense now ! You are managing to put this much time in on the rig because you got kicked out of the house and are sleeping on a couch in the shop. Will she let you back in the house when it's finished or is it a more permanent move? :D
 

dwcjwerfner

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Dwayne, what are your plans for trianglation?
Yes

He'll probably just tie Connie up there, and then get mad at her for being in his way :),,,,,,,your nuts by the way buddy,,,you kind of remind me of Trixie.
Trixie's a whore and she gots nothing on me :lmao:

It all makes sense now ! You are managing to put this much time in on the rig because you got kicked out of the house and are sleeping on a couch in the shop. Will she let you back in the house when it's finished or is it a more permanent move? :D

Yes couch, TV, stereo, all garage essentials.

Full shop today:




Thanks to Steve and Dan for pulling the axles from the YJ. :beer::beer:

Roof ready except for final welds in on some joints.



 
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Farm Boy

Bought the Farm
Dwayne, do you plan on some bracing on the back side of the B pillar? Looks to me like if you took a hard roll, the front half of the roof would come down on your head.
 
S

Steve B

Guest
Of course he is,,, he's being a complete Tube Geek,,,but the fawker will be strong :) I'm thinking he should put wheels on the top too, so when it flips over from being top heavy he can just keep right on crawlin :)
 

dwcjwerfner

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Well I didn't make SF due to lots of reasons but the main ones were because I had too many things to do, I just plain ran out of energy and mostly because I have worked this hard to accomplish what I have been visualizing the whole time and I could not bring myself to rush things and have the truck slapped together like it always has been.
These are all the parts that just took me way more time than they should have but since they were tedious little jobs I just couldn't seem to get moving fast at them......and really they are things that really couldn't be done fast.
I had to transition tube tunnel to factory floor.........ugggghhhhh.



So after many many hours I think I did a pretty good job:





Then I had to make my "improved clearance" wheel wells for 42's someday ;)





And more little pieces put in "right" but worth it....


So the long is and short was I could have rushed it and come out with a 90% finished truck and then had to come back and get all the mud and rust off it to finish it but I was just too tired when I thought about how much extra work that would have added.
Still don't have the bus going, it has a definite fuel problem which will mean pulling the 450l tank which means getting the truck done and out of my way :lmao: so hopefully more progress to report shortly.
 

dwcjwerfner

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That's funny I was actually loading some up to photobucket last night then was too tired to post them.
Well I as you all know I never made April 1st, May 1st, SF or last weekend. I was pretty beat by the time SF came around as I obviously shouldn't have cut off my roof (read make a buggy) in the last week of March but peer pressure is a great thing :lmao:
Well in between just trying to get caught up in RL, and trying to get the bus running (still not) I never got back to the truck for a week, then all the work I had been putting off at my business was compounded with 2 weeks of emergencies every day so that I never get working on the truck until between 8-10 every night. Add to this the fact that I have some pretty intricate (crazy) ideas of how I want my SUV buggy to end up it takes a very long time to do things as it is not just put some tube here or there and cover it (not saying that is a bad and very less time consuming way to build) but instead decide how everything I do is going to affect my overall finished product.
That being said I am pretty happy with my end product although alot of it is still not perfect because I am not that good at this fab thing. (Working up to a project with little builds would have been a good idea).

Flanges for removable tunnel panels



Panel itself


Flanges welded in



Holes drilled and tapped



Typical for me to accomplish what I want: 3 Steps forward and 1 back



I am such a hoarder, these are leftover 1.5" tubes from Scot's build I used for inner sliders:



Removable tube back in place:



Panel with adapted door seals to keep fumes and dust out.



Rinse and repeat for top section:



And all that extra work is so that I can remove the 2 transfer cases and even the transmission from inside the truck as otherwise crossmembers which hold front and rear suspensions in place have to be removed to access them.

Here is a video of how "easy" it is to remove.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zelu22bpgbI


I finally found a use for that stupid handcart that always seems to be in my way until I need it and can't find it. Oh and I hate changing grinder wheels so I have one for every application :flipoff:



Mounting the seat proved to be quite a challenge as tube was going to be too high and then I was going to have to cut recesses into each one and put plate in anyway and plus I needed enough metal to attach seat bolts to so I would have probably ended up welding nuts to the bottom of all those plates so I cut up some 3/4" I had lying around and tapped it. Then I had to shim the front as you can see in some of the pictures that the factory floor has quite a slope the engineers had compensated for with stamped crossers which seem to be missing in mine now and the rest of the irregularities got filled with a few passes of hot weld :smokin:



Blurry pic of supports for the B-Pillar



My sweetheart of a wife felt sorry for me last Friday and came out and started painting the roof as it is going to be really hard to paint the whole thing at once



Axles straps in preliminary form



More later
dj
 
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dwcjwerfner

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Alright here is a play by play of 2.5 nights ( when I wasn't distracted by other things I thought were less tedious)

Look at hole that needs to be filled and plan course of action:



Weld flanges on and cut out the first template:



Discover the way I made the shifter is way to short and has a bad throw when the seat is in place :banghead: you can see in later pics that the shifter now sits taller and swings farther back courtesy of that piece of angle being welded in there.
Not shown here is the fact that with the modifications you see the tunnel cover is actually V 2.0 as with the different throw I had to move the slot location or that the tacks I put on broke on 3 seperate occasions while bending the shifter to fit beside the seat and that means unbolting and rebolting it every time :



Doesn't it look beautiful? Shut up it's a work of art. :lmao:



Alright template # 2, I want it to be a nice tight fit.



Well the Princess Auto metal shear and I had a disagreement about where the line was (maybe I was tired but I swear it looked like it was on the line until after I cut it)



So that led me to either having to put a plate behind there, or recut the piece but I had been saving that piece for weeks because I knew it almost fit there in the first place. So I started working on how to put my seals on the outside edge of my panels. I had been putting them on the inside flanges to fit the 90` angles but the seal was too big and bowed my panels and the edges of the panels still all needed trimming. So I fingered out how to make the seals to do a 90 on the outside, of course the seals which are old door seals are very durable. Like filled with wire to keep their form durable, so after trying tin snips, side cutters and razor cutters I came up with using a cut-off saw as the ultimate solution.......rubber, plastic, metal are all no match for it. Of course wear gloves and be very careful when notching. I guess I will have to take a picture of the finished product lol. And that was 2.5 evenings.




The next night was just as fun, I had to fill in this mess of unfinished ends, now that was some tedious template making, metal cutting and welding, the joy of working with existing framework, I did a pretty nice job but you probably won't see that until it is finished and painted.



Which leads me to a another weekend of still no wheeling but I have seatbelt attachment points courtesy of more 3/4" bar.



So then I finished up some welding here and there and thought about fading the orange on the top to a lighter orange.
YIKES!!!


Connie comes out just as I finish and asks me WTH I am doing and in my tired state of mind I say "well it's a fade" and she says "your buddies are going to call that peach" and I am like "yeah I know" so she takes over painting and I mix white in with the minute amount of "peach" I have and does some funky things with the foam brush so the old colour shows through.
At midnight I see it drying to a horrendous shade of bathroom orange so I pour a new batch of pure white and cover it all over. Once again pics later, just use your imagination now, stop imagining peach it's white you fools.


Coil spring retainers for the bottom which I made from looking at pics on the interweb, boy I wish Mike Lorint lived closer as my stuff would look a lot nice when they were done but they are functional. Now you would think that those nice little circles I cut out would be perfect for capturing the top of the coil on the inside. Well I did too but they were too small and I had to measure and cut them seperately after trying.



A cool pic of the truck front to back before covered in which shows the exhaust very well mounted on very secure double rubber mounts (yes I am grasping but it is really well mounted)



And because I needed something else to slow me down my brand new fuel cell from Summit has a snapped off bolt (cross-threaded from the factory) and is rusty metal for a flange inside an aluminum fuel cell. They have been notified.

 

aweber

This thread is :rainbow:
Staff member
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Your 12am posts always provide me with morning entertainment :beer:

Glad your getting some use out of that shear!
 

dwcjwerfner

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Club Member
Alright those of you that have been to my garage know that big Black & Deck drill of my dad's that is 40+ years old and testament to when B&D used to make real products. Anyway it was getting so I had to jostle it so it would start and when inspecting it when running I could see the fan was moving frontward and backward so I took it apart and found that one of the wires to a brush was broken out of it's molded place but there was a matching slot on the other side. Good stuff this old machinery. I also shimmed up the shaft by the fan as I could see it had quite a bit of play. Hmmmm I wonder if the yanking or sudden stops associated with the notcher has any thing to do with this, probably. Quite well built inside.



So knowing a drill of this caliber is probably $300 I was pretty happy with my fixes. But the problem with a 40+ year old tool is the plastic is that old too, One of the plastic button screws that holds the brushes in (yes serviceable brushes) already had a piece missing from the slot, I got out and in once but I had to take it out one more time and the slot distintegrated and further attempts to remove it just left me with small pieces of old brittle plastic. I have MacGyvered it with a rubber cap and electrical tape.
Does anybody know where I might find such a button screw? Of course it nees to be made of a non-conductive material as it is pushing on the spring that pushes on the brush.

 
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