TJ Rubicon rebuild.

2

2Greys

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Looking clean!
How long is your rear driveshaft anyways? Also what was the angle compared to the pinion?
 
M

MadMax

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Well everything went outta wack when the axle got moved forward to clear the tank (dif was hitting the gas tank on full flex previously) wheel base is now 94" and it's been dropped to 6" so the drive shaft is to long by 2" at 16 3/4! Once it's all back in the DS and pinion angles will be sorted out a slight t case drop was necessary to get the proper angle before the DS was found to be worn out!https://vimeo.com/152204270


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M

MadMax

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Both front and rear DS have been sent in to Ottawa Driveshaft for rebuilding both were shot and incorrect length....front was to short and on the cusp of coming apart...I've had that happen and it sucks! And as mentioned the rear was to long. I love the quality and turn around time u get w Ottawa DS very professional. And had to replace the blower motor for the heater today and blow out the heater core....the joys of not driving a vehicle before you buy I guess! Placing an order of POR15 to coat the frame and undercarriage this summer to permanently stop the rust! Every vehicle should be painted w this stuff from the factory inside and out!


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2

2Greys

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MadMax said:
Both front and rear DS have been sent in to Ottawa Driveshaft for rebuilding both were shot and incorrect length....front was to short and on the cusp of coming apart...I've had that happen and it sucks! And as mentioned the rear was to long. I love the quality and turn around time u get w Ottawa DS very professional. And had to replace the blower motor for the heater today and blow out the heater core....the joys of not driving a vehicle before you buy I guess! Placing an order of POR15 to coat the frame and undercarriage this summer to permanently stop the rust! Every vehicle should be painted w this stuff from the factory inside and out!


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Regarding blower and heater core, welcome to owning a TJ.
POR15 is a tad overrated. It is strong but it isn't impermeable. What will happen is the rust will work its way under the paint and then creep along. All of a sudden you will be pulling it off in strips. Since the frame has holes you will find that will be where it works its way under. If you can get the inside of the frame really clean Eastwood is supposed to be excellent for coating the inside.
 
M

MadMax

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Eastwood never heard of it but I'm going to look it up.....thx


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2

2Greys

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Yes that's the stuff

and no local suppliers, I don't even think they import into Canada at all (not that I am aware). The nozzle tube is about 2ft long so you can get good coverage.
We have a mailbox at the UPS store in Ogdensburg at a reduced rate assuming you are a member. Back in the day when the dollar was better there were definite benefits in cross border shopping. Between that and POR15 on the outside it should definitely prolong the life of your frame. And then when your frame does fail but not enough to warrant a frameswap then we can talk about the patching
 
M

MadMax

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I just ordered 5 cans because that's what they recommend to do the job and it cost me $120 w shipping to Canada


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M

MadMax

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I've also read that putting a coating of boiled linseed oil over top of that will pretty extend the life for 100 years [emoji2]


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2

2Greys

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I think the key ingredient in Fluid Film is Linseed oil.

Hope it works, it's has had good reviews on Jeepforum I just need to clean out my inner frame enough
 
M

MadMax

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That's the hard part right there making sure it's not full of mud!


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2

2Greys

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I am looking at trying to come up with a flexible way of getting a pressure washer into the frame. Basically copying what was at the local carwash place near me. Essentially it is the trigger portion with some hose attached. I can get a 22M to 1/4NPT on Amazon for a couple bucks and then get a 1/4npt barb and some hose. That should allow you to get the water pressure all the way in. Using a normal wand it isn't that effective as you can't get it in the frame holes.
So many euphamisms...

MadMax said:
That's the hard part right there making sure it's not full of mud!


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M

MadMax

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Well let me know if that works and I'll make my own or go to your place :)


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Kunker

Kunker

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2Greys said:
I am looking at trying to come up with a flexible way of getting a pressure washer into the frame. Basically copying what was at the local carwash place near me. Essentially it is the trigger portion with some hose attached. I can get a 22M to 1/4NPT on Amazon for a couple bucks and then get a 1/4npt barb and some hose. That should allow you to get the water pressure all the way in. Using a normal wand it isn't that effective as you can't get it in the frame holes.
So many euphamisms...
Click to expand...

Didn't Andrew do something like that when he was actually working on the CJ?

http://ovo.ca/forums/showthread.php?3607-Cleaning-the-inside-of-the-frame&highlight=pressure+washer

I thought he had something in his build thread too, but I can't find it right now.
 
2

2Greys

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Yeah you can buy them, they are called Jetters and are usually what Roto-rooter uses for tough clogs. I think the cheapest I saw pre-made was about $100US called the clog-hog and is 50 ft long. The actual parts are about $10 but the problem is it isn't flexible enough to go in the holes in the frame. I should see if he still has it and if he wants to sell it. I forgot about that thread, I had mentioned using a hose but it didn't really have the pressure to break up the hardened mud.
 
Kunker

Kunker

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2Greys said:
Yeah you can buy them, they are called Jetters and are usually what Roto-rooter uses for tough clogs. I think the cheapest I saw pre-made was about $100US called the clog-hog and is 50 ft long. The actual parts are about $10 but the problem is it isn't flexible enough to go in the holes in the frame. I should see if he still has it and if he wants to sell it. I forgot about that thread, I had mentioned using a hose but it didn't really have the pressure to break up the hardened mud.
Click to expand...

Worked fine for me, just parked on a hill, pulled the rear bumper and went to town. Mind you, there isn't anything in the CJ frame that hung the hose up, so I could scrape it along pretty much to the motor mounts from the rear.
 
2

2Greys

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Kunker said:
Worked fine for me, just parked on a hill, pulled the rear bumper and went to town. Mind you, there isn't anything in the CJ frame that hung the hose up, so I could scrape it along pretty much to the motor mounts from the rear.
Click to expand...


Problem with the TJ is the rear is closed in by the crossmember so you only have small holes to stick the hose into the frame.
 
M

MadMax

Guest
Interior storage space has been expanded by the use of these bad boyz! Can't say enough about organization:)

And still lots of room for the kids.....these cans are heavy duty steel and will be used for recovery gear and a cooler!


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M

MadMax

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And the PoisonSpyder trail gate and tramp stamp are installed:)



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