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PROJECT!!! Buggy Build
- Thread starter Farm Boy
- Start date
Farm Boy
Bought the Farm
Powertrain upgrades: 
Marlin MC07-R10 dual adapter
AA TH350-Toy t-case (I had it from a previous swap otherwise I'd go TH400)
Stock vs 23 spline input
FROR t-case mount.
This ring is $54. You can get a more complete one ($289) with arms that extend to the frame and bushing mounts but it takes up alot of extra room. I'd end up modifying it anyway for exhaust clearance so this one is nice that the tough part of mating to the case is done and I can do the rest myself (and not pay for stuff I'd cut off anyway).
Marlin MC07-R10 dual adapter
AA TH350-Toy t-case (I had it from a previous swap otherwise I'd go TH400)
Stock vs 23 spline input
FROR t-case mount.
This ring is $54. You can get a more complete one ($289) with arms that extend to the frame and bushing mounts but it takes up alot of extra room. I'd end up modifying it anyway for exhaust clearance so this one is nice that the tough part of mating to the case is done and I can do the rest myself (and not pay for stuff I'd cut off anyway).
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Farm Boy
Bought the Farm
The new engine
345 hp, 380 ftlb LQ9 from a '03 Silverado SS
Marked the harness prior to removal:
Had to drill and tap one of the holes for the tranny. Plug was there so it was easy.
Fully assembled t-cases.
Left to Right: FROR t-case mount/88 case with Marlin 23 spline upgrade/Marlin MC07-R10 adapter/85 low range box with TG 4.7 gears/AA trans adapter
Assembled powertrain: approx 75" from rear output to front of water pump pulley
345 hp, 380 ftlb LQ9 from a '03 Silverado SS
Marked the harness prior to removal:
Had to drill and tap one of the holes for the tranny. Plug was there so it was easy.
Fully assembled t-cases.
Left to Right: FROR t-case mount/88 case with Marlin 23 spline upgrade/Marlin MC07-R10 adapter/85 low range box with TG 4.7 gears/AA trans adapter
Assembled powertrain: approx 75" from rear output to front of water pump pulley
S
SWest
Guest
nice
That is a nice truck.
That is a nice truck.
Farm Boy
Bought the Farm
So I got some more work done today. Pics to come once I get them uploaded.
Point form:
- Needed a bit more room @ the firewall so I cut the whole thing out. It will look alot cleaner this way also when I'm done.
- Bolted up the t-cases to the trans
- If I can make the rad/winch fit in front, I'll have the t-case centered fore/aft in the truck with matching F&R driveshafts @ about 44"
-Got the rest of the original t-case crossmember mounts ground off to allow for the flat belly skid.
- Fabbed up the engine side of the motor mounts.
:smokin:
Point form:
- Needed a bit more room @ the firewall so I cut the whole thing out. It will look alot cleaner this way also when I'm done.
- Bolted up the t-cases to the trans
- If I can make the rad/winch fit in front, I'll have the t-case centered fore/aft in the truck with matching F&R driveshafts @ about 44"
-Got the rest of the original t-case crossmember mounts ground off to allow for the flat belly skid.
- Fabbed up the engine side of the motor mounts.
:smokin:
D
Dirk
Guest
Pics....
R
Root Moose
Guest
Yeah, we need truck pr0n over here.
Farm Boy
Bought the Farm
It's the login process that gives me problems. Once I get logged in it works. Can the font color be changed from the black on black so we can actually see what we are typing? It's not always that I spell things wrong but being able to see what I am typing would eliminate that possibility.
Farm Boy
Bought the Farm
Finally some pics to go with the weekend's work:
Removed the rest of the firewall
Opened up the floor for the drivetrain lift
This is the goal:
Drivetrain is fully above the bottom of the frame rails so I can make a full belly skid from the back of the front springs to the front of the rear links and framerail to framerail. Should be nothing for me to get hung up on now. I can't find the # but I have gained somewhere between 4" and 6" of breakover clearance and gotten rid of the stupid factory crossmember anchor that caught everything.
Removed the rest of the firewall
Opened up the floor for the drivetrain lift
This is the goal:
Drivetrain is fully above the bottom of the frame rails so I can make a full belly skid from the back of the front springs to the front of the rear links and framerail to framerail. Should be nothing for me to get hung up on now. I can't find the # but I have gained somewhere between 4" and 6" of breakover clearance and gotten rid of the stupid factory crossmember anchor that caught everything.
Farm Boy
Bought the Farm
I took the stock mounts, removed all but the part that directly bolts to the engine. Welded on some buishing mounts from MORE and this is the result:
I have to make the frame side brackets yet but have not yet decided which way up will be. Depending on how the angles work once I actually bolt them on, I may flip them over to improve angles on the frame side bracket. A little bit of elbow grease on the air chisel to get the rubber of the stock mounts apart but saved $75 making these.
I have to make the frame side brackets yet but have not yet decided which way up will be. Depending on how the angles work once I actually bolt them on, I may flip them over to improve angles on the frame side bracket. A little bit of elbow grease on the air chisel to get the rubber of the stock mounts apart but saved $75 making these.
Farm Boy
Bought the Farm
Adrian, this might interest you as I would imagine you'll run into the same exhaust problem as me:
So after alot of searching, it seems as though I'm going to have to build my own set of headers.
Everything available for the 6.0 is either a direct replacement for the stock manifolds or the long style and neither of those will work for me.
These Patriot flanges from Jegs
http://www.jegs.com/i/Patriot+Exhaust/737/H7893/10002/-1
And this Jegs tubing kit
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/31882/10002/-1
Aside from the work involved, I'll end up with a set of headers that will actually fit what I need and save atleaset %30 over what most 6.0 headers sell for.
:smokin:
So after alot of searching, it seems as though I'm going to have to build my own set of headers.
Everything available for the 6.0 is either a direct replacement for the stock manifolds or the long style and neither of those will work for me.
These Patriot flanges from Jegs
http://www.jegs.com/i/Patriot+Exhaust/737/H7893/10002/-1
And this Jegs tubing kit
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/31882/10002/-1
Aside from the work involved, I'll end up with a set of headers that will actually fit what I need and save atleaset %30 over what most 6.0 headers sell for.
:smokin:
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D
Dirk
Guest
WOW... gaping hole where the firewall should be.... :smokin:
R
Root Moose
Guest
I envy your flat tummy. This is as flat as I could get mine without clocking the transfer case (and adding who knows how much time to my build).
R
Root Moose
Guest
Does that work? Isn't the port arrangement completely different?
Hmm, now that you mention it... maybe SBF headers would work?
Hmm, now that you mention it... maybe SBF headers would work?